sleeper06

What I'm getting at , the pipe might not bee rite for port work , or portwork itself not scavenging correctly. Again it's not common but happens

I've run into similar issue your having, and in my conversations with other builders they've had a cpl. I've had 2 instances where engines with fresh builds good electronics took every last bit of fuel I woul give it. Both instances the bikes had fmf fatties.

I run the fast racing non oring on all drag bikes and never had an issue in 10 yrs and over 75 builds

Most reeds break on a backfire or lean pop

I work on more motors than most and I see this a lot, as shee rider said reeds are seasonal at best depending on hours, reeds are constantly bending, heating,cooling,pressurized, take a beating. Check your pipes for reed parts and see if you can find it, it really depends what part of the stroke it flew in on . Could have went rite out , might be lodged in the transfer or bearings. If it was my personal bike I wou tear it down, customers bikes I can only do what there willing to pay for. Call driveline and ask there opinion , just keep in mind you might not wanna hear it

It's s diffrent bike radar, his asphault bike snapped the chain

Oem or nology. Nology puts out more jewels but oem is tried n true

It's a must do for anything overstock IMO. You will love yourself for it.

Wsm race pistons are what I use if I'm trying to squeeze every last bit of power out. I also weigh Pistons and match them in a race motor

As u might already know a grooved basket will cause plates to stick therefore giving you a creep, inner n outter hubs are cheap and can also give you similar problem. Once you install aftermarket clutches I sdjust pancake bearing to engage just before the arrow on cases. As long as the cable isn't stretched and pancake adjusted like stated you should be able to use perch adjustment to get desired results

Fast racing

If you ride hills chop it on a full pull up the hill, if trails chop it on the street

The seals have a rubber retaining ring that prevents it from moving. As stated I've done it in a pinch but there's a risk to hurt more than was originally wrong

I'll have to agree with mailman, most of my customers run 1/8-1/4 but regardless of bike I give it what it wants . Don't get stuck on what everyone else has , do you. .

I'll have to agree with mailman, most of my customers run 1/8-1/4 but regardless of bike I give it what it wants . Don't get stuck on what everyone else has , do you. .

Watch with those hose clamps on the intake I've see them wear boots, most intakes spec the thinner style

I was thinking air chisel, works like a charm

I've had ported Cubs jet into the 180's a few times , mostly mid 160 to mid 170 but I've def chopped a few into the 180s

He will also sell u just the weatherpack connectors if your confident in wiring. If not just order a harness from him, if that's out in the open I can only imagine what's hiding

Ricky stator are very hit n miss I've seen people go through 3-4 before getting one that works

Try n find an oem one used, . If you have the dough call fast n get brand new oem one

Nothing wrong with out of the box thinking. What rod are you using. I've been playing with cranks a lot . Nothing wrong with spacers either if done correctly. Every R motor uses them with no problems

Post pics of what u got, most people think they have one off gold

Nothing wrong with building a 7 mil just like you did the 4. I've be using a wsm core and assembling it to my specs

Get a manual and check the electrical specs on the components. The do the 2 major test , compression, pressure test( leakdown). It's time to start eliminating possibilities. With a new to you machine this should be done for piece of mind