sleeper06

I have found powdering cylinders yield higher running temps and they don't cool as quickly

What intakes are you running? Pressure test that motor before any further abuse , then move to electrical. Try a 160 main 50 pilot to start. What pipe?

Every bike is different, I've ran 25s on certain motors

How many cfm are you sinking carbs to when slides are at idle stop

Compare the price of slides to just getting a set of reg pwk , I've never personally had a problem but many have. I may have slides you need I'll check when I'm home

They have there place for sure

I work on a lot of four strokes lately , they are very nice plush rides. They last a long time if you use good oil/filters and keep an eye on the valve lash. One draw back is there double the money to rebuild of something fails.

Fireball or stellar

What about the idle screws

Do you know ur port timings and layout, I would get a cool head with a custom dome set up for your porting n pipes . 33-35 pwk

Beat me to it rob he charges pennies compared to being stuck, all new connectors and fittings

Any pics of cylinders , I've really wanted to build one but can't find a 10 mil style sleeve

Are you cylinders off side to side 5 psi

Do a leakdown test and get an idle screw kit , you can't use cable play as idle adjustment

To be honest I would run 110 in what you got without cc it it's close to 14:1 , to run 93 you need the 24's

You need 24 cc domes with that set up

I'm anal but I don't like to see any loss, small intake side leak that minimal no biggie, small crank seal or case mating surface big deal. I see sooooo many of these engines go together with terrible cleaning practices and prep . I'm not saying it's a seal at all but I've seen at least 15 motors test good in one crank position then rotate it and it's no Bueno . I've also seen a motor test good on bench but have a semi bad oring in the head and would only let a lil anti freeze in when cylinder was building max pressure then was fine again. I've seen motors with low static pressure but high uccr lift the head because of a lil deto and cause a coolant interference with symptoms like yours . It could be as simple as wrong needle . Could be 1000 things that's why I start with basics 1- get motor to hold air with no leaks 2- put timing at zero to start 3- new plugs 4- electronics test in your case get a known good coil that test out 5- fresh fuel 6- set slides even with proper cable play without idle screws in 7- install idle screw and set sync to 5 cfm with vacuum gauge 8- make sure exhaust packing is good 9- make sure carb clamps get tight enouph to not allow leaks 10- gap plugs 11- make sure exhaust orings are good by head mount

Pressure testers are easy to build n it's cheap insurance

How's your compression ? What reeds do you have? Don't get stuck on what sounds lean or what other people run , if compression is good go bigger than a 30 pilot. If it won't start cold you don't have enouph pilot. Is the motor tight leakdown wise

You also said you did lose a little pressure on the leakdown I would like for you to soap the intakes and check the crank seals. I know it was minimal but if it's a crank seal leak will get worse once cranks spinning

I've seen stranger things happen, I would like to see the gap closed and find a coil that gives you 4-7.5 kohm cap to cap

.018-.020

What gap are your plugs at

Do a pro mod trans while your in there

I've ported quite a few ex engines, I use marine tek it holds up to the nitro pretty well