sleeper06

leave the cap of rad off start bike,look n see if water is flowin when yopu hit the gas

you guys just confused the shit outta me,or im really tired!

If your confident with your work smooth it out,I have done about 15 trannies now and all shift like butter,the only one that has a little snag in it is in my bike,it was the first tranny i bought and was excited so threw it in without checking it,if you decide to take it out let me know,and its been my experiance they dont like to shift easy its hard or go home

i was giving you the safe route,I have tuned many bikes,you allready are running 162 with the lower compression and smaller carb,now your adding compression ,race gas which jets diffrent depending what kind and bigger carbs added too,compression is power but your no newb so you know

there has also been plenty of times i thought wtf kind of glue did i use cause it wasreal hard on a few sets to get apaRT

t-5 set up 280-290 main 27.5 pilot needle 4th clip,if your going up n down with jetting n still having same issue chances are its electrical.I would try the jets i suggested then move on to electrical being you stated stuff is new

If the adjusters are all the way down free play was never adjusted,adjust them then sync the carbs with sync tool it could get rid of a gurgle due to slide heights,alot of times i use taller adjusters to get it how i like it

cable free play adjustments on the carb tops,you can do it by eye or mark it with a scribe and measure if your anal

You can start there an work down unless your heavily ported you shouldnt need to go up

i re did the drum a lil,trust me nothing major but a lil goes a long way with smooth shifting

100% use the clearance as a dtermining factor,also make sure there straight n round if your bore isnt perfect your rings wont seal and will flutter

i have used ice screws in knobbies to gain traction on dirt,pick a pattern and go with it

glass bead them i usually charge 35-40 bucks and they come out new,perfect again no need to waste hours scrubbing any good performance shop should be able to take care of it just make sure there not using black magic media a few of my friends had issues with it tearing up motors

swap your plug wires and see if the problem switched sides if not its in your carb,clean it real good,check your cable play and carb sync

It does not matter,althoufgh i seem to put the orange in front all the time,plug wires dont matter

pre ignition from low octane or deto from lean jetting or both,seen it a million times and im pretty sure you know but dont ride it like that or your new top end will be junk if its not allready

155,48,cel 4th clip,start 1 1/2 out on the screws

IMO 42 squish is to tight for a cub,I like to be around .0050,if the motor was set up for asphault 165psi could have been the goal for the build.High compression isnt everything in racing.No head gasket is sketchy tho.I also have a drag ported 421 cub from fast racing the intakes and transfers are untouched and still have all casting marks the port heights have been altered but looks stock after fresh nik

Did you ohm out the new wires an boots,whats your carbs an jetting at now

I use a bridgport mill and a rotary table,now i like doing everything myself but it is time consuming.I have 6 trannies in curculation now with very good results on 90+ hp bikes as well as 60hp bikes

I run high comprssion motors with no issues at all my rule for my build is nothing over 200 psi,I usually like 165-170 for drag bikes and higher for trail/dune set-ups,18cc seems a lil high for a stock port motor considering a duneported stock stroke motor with 18s comes in at aroun 170 psi or more,are you sure your crank isnt tweeked causeing premature wear on seals,I have motors in my group still perfect after 3-4yrs ,crank vibration can cause multitudes of problems

i wouldnt tear it down on a fresh build unless the crank was not inspected for rod play and bearing runout,I have been testing every crank i can get my hands on and have yet to see an oem crank come out of phase,out of tru diffrent story i have seen that.The only crank i have ever seen out of phase was a hotrods about 8 yrs ago an we learned the hard way

im still stumped why the carbs were off to change the push rod/clutch,try opening the screw on the bottom of the bowl to see if its getting fuel,your not in NY are you because it might be easier to show you in person if the knowledge base isnt there or buy a manual

in summer same set up 280 main,30 pilot 2turns out on the screws stock needle all the way rich,I have a lot of experiance tuning that set up and fattys liked big pilots you could get away with 27.5 pilots with a lil portwork

I understand your 15 but you gotta chill and listen to whats being told to you, #1 clean your carbs really well with pressurized air and carb clean blow it through every hole take pilot jet out sometimes needs a reeming with a needle or welding wire #2 check your float bowl height,it sets the base for all jetting tocome #3once all thats done install a 27.5 pilot jet with 260 mains needle 4th clip #4A pressure test should be done while carbs are off,all the jetting in the world isnt gonna help an airleak #5how is your compression,you cant jet more compression into a motor,anything below 115 needs some attention,it will run lower but your chancing derious damage #6dont listen to a thing your friends say there are very knowledgable people here if your willing to do the neccessary testing to give us the info we need,there is a sticky on the forum about pressure tests and building your own,it must hold 6lbs for 6 min