4stroker

yeah man, i have a zeeltronic for my RZ, i still havent tried it yet though. once its on, i plan on spending a day on the dyno playing with different ignition curves and also different PV curves. Snop, on my buddies bike I am pretty sure that RPM dropped from 9800 to 9600 with the addition of the timing plate. that is with 15/41 gearing and stock banshee tyres. why do you ask? mark

you should try USPS, not UPS i get stuff all the time from the US to Aus. to give you an idea, an axle costs about $100 to ship, pipes the same, a pair of riding boots $60... the one i use all the time is USPS Express Mail international, so theres prolly an ever cheaper option. hope that helps, mark

yeah, i was just looking on dyna's website, and noticed that none of the curves that come with the unit would suit us. ie, they arent advanced much in the lower rpm, but rather just hold the "advancement" for longer over the mid range and it ends up about 3 degrees advanced on the top end?? if i were to draw my own curve, i would probably statically advance the whole first half of the curve by 4 degrees, and then gradually decrease back to stock from about 5500/6000 rpm, where the pipes start working.. what do you think?

Hey guys Recently we started modding a buddies brand spanker, bone stock 07 banshee. We did the following bolt ons: T5 pipes and silencers Noss head with 21s K&N filter and billet flange, no lid Did all the necesary jetting changes, she runs smick so there was no problem with all of that, hes been riding it heaps and drag racing us all a fair bit, it runs real good for what it is, out of about 3 or 4 of my buddies bikes with just bolt ons, it ran the best, won all the races. anyway so after a few weeks we added a timing plate, set it to plus 4. straight away he noticed the increase in bottom end power, so we put the tacho on it and lined it up against another bike to see what it did to the top end. well now with the timing it has knocked 200rpm off of top gear, and the other bike walks away from it in 6th. we kinda thought this would happen, has anyone else experienced this?? we are currently looking into a programmable ignition so we can advanced the bottom end and not the top end. sorry for the long post! mark

i think the banshee will run fine with 150+ psi and 92 octane we accidently ran a buddies banshee the other day on 87 octane, and it has 19cc domes, and a 66mm bore, at sea level. no signs of deto the same bike has been run for years like this on 93/94, no problems what-so-ever

umm, is this what you meant? http://www.quadracerhq.com

your probably better off ringing one of them. i would ring jim from passion racing.

have you actually tried the 92 in the banshee with 150+ psi? or are you just going off what you read/hear? if you have tried it and it deto'd, but it doesnt in your 125, then its probably because your 125 has a much better combustion chamber design, and/or less ignition timing...

one of my motors was stock except for fatty's, shaved head and +4 timing. while my RZ motor was down and out i fitted the VF3's and Keihin PWK33's onto the stock motor. after some tuning, it went from 44hp at the wheels to 49hp. sure, it lost a little bottom end, but hardly enough to whine about, and the gains up top were sweet! if i were you though and had to buy some carbs, id get some PWK28s, i reckon they would have the same 5hp gain without losing as much bottom. mark

dude, take half a day and swap parts with a buddy who has a banshee, things like the stator, coil etc... eliminate the possibility of it being electrical. if you installed the timing plate yourself, maybe you messed something up there? pick up gap? if its definitely jetting, go over the basics again. you already have a range of pilots and mains. buy some different needles if you have to, they are like $6??

Jim is the man. very knowledgable and always real helpful on the phone. Everything he does is run through simulation software and engine building programs, then tried and tested in the real world and dyno proven. if he says the extra ports need to be there, then they need to be there!

mmm its entirely possible. before the porting and carbs, your bike was only pulling 8000rpm (im assuming 20inch tyres?) there mustve been something wrong with it though, or you are very heavy??!! now its pulling 10500+, which is a very good result with that gearing! good job

TRO73 what gearing are you running?

get this, my buddies play bike has the following: 66mm wisecos FMF SST Pipes Clean up port on intake and transfers, polished ex port (no actual timing changes) 32mm Mikunis with pods slotted stock timing plate (prolly advanced 2 deg at the most) and most importantly : Noss head with 19cc domes he has run this bike like this for years on our 98 RON, (your 93). it has never had any problems, we call it "ol reliable". pull the head off every now and then for a re-ring and there are no signs of deto. even more interesting, the other weekend we accidentaly poured 91 RON (your 87) premix into it, and it ran like a champ all day, flogging the absolute guts out of it! (he didnt know till after he had put 91 in it) oh yeah and we are at sea level!

Ok guys im from australia, so bear with me! what octane do you guys consider to be "regular pump gas"? here in aus, our regular fuel, that every tom dick and harry fills there cars up with, is 91 RON. Premium is 95 RON. Then most fuel companies have their better version again, which are commonly 98 RON. Whenever me and my buddies go riding we use the 98. But what needs to be said is that our octane ratings are advertised differently to yours. Long story short: our 91 is equivalent to your 87, our 95 your 91, and our 98 your 93. What is smallest size noss dome i should put in my bike? (stock bore, stock port, +4 timing). oh yeah im at sea level. can some of you who actually know their dome size and compression get back to me with what fuel your using? thanks, mark

ouch im interested, do you have paypal?

why are you selling them?

lol macdizzy.com is another good source for this sort of info. there are a couple of banshee specific threads on there which actually have specific port dimensions/durations etc and a description of what they will do to your powerband. there is also a very good article on there on which are the best tools to use for the job and the best places to get them. you have to pay to be a member and see all this info but its only like $10/15 a year and its well worth it!

there is plenty of info around on this topic. buy this book: 2 stroke performance tuning by graham bell

lol loco's comments remind me of the time i tried to explain some port timing numbers to him and he said to me "honestly, i dont think you have any clue as to what youre doing" check it out here: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...troker&st=0 macdizzy.com is an awesome site! its a little old and people dont post on there as often as they used to but it is still worth the membership fee! tons of info on there you will learn so much more about 2 strokes its not funny!

are they PT mids on the black bansheE? if so how much??

yeah thats with no silencers...

on a banshee, the clutch actuator (above pic) pushes on the push rod, which pushes on a ball bearing, which pushes on the pressure plate to dis engage the clutch. the rod can weld to the ball some times if you coast along with the clutch in at high speed for too long. in worst case scenarios the rod can weld to the actuator and the ball. first thing to do is remove the actuator out of the case. if it comes out clean you are lucky, so just remove the side case, remove the 6 clutch spring bolts and take off the pressure plate. you will then be able to see if the ball is welded to the rods either side of it. if the actuator doesnt want to come out you will have to split the cases to fix it! hope the actuator comes out! mark.

are these set up for power jets?

wouldnt the spare plug just foul up anyway from not firing?