4stroker

surely there has to be a greater risk of running the bowl dry on WOT runs with a single carb, compared to say even the stock set up if you think about, you now have half the amount of fuel available in the bowl, and the carb is jetted alot richer than if you had two carbs, all still feeding the same motor with (nearly) the same horsepower am i gonna need a billet bowl on my single 35 air stryker set up?

hey ive been doing some searching and noticed that alot of people said they had to do some experimenting with different needles in their single carb set ups. none of them actually said what needle they ended up with though! im running a stock banshee with nothing other than: FMF fatty's Milled stock head v force 3 reeds 4 degree advanced timing i have a 35mm keihin air stryker carb for it, but still need to buy a manifold, will prolly get a trinity 2-1. what needle do you guys think i should start out with? the carb has a CGL needle in it right now thanks, mark

who makes the best single carb intake manifold and where can i get one on its own? i already have a 35mm air stryker and just need the manifold, oh and the cable too. thanks, mark

you are a "HQ Legend" yet you have never seen a banshee piston? is the ring your talkin about kinda crinkly looking? i think wiseco must only put them sometimes or something stupid like that, or just started putting them in. they are supposed to go on the bottom ring land first and then put the proper ring over it (i think) i left them out on my last rebuild

anyone?

FTZ state that their carbs are 35.5mm, how do they do this? do they start with a Mikuni TM34 and bore it? why not just use a TM36? i would like to hear from people who have used em before, particularly on alcohol! any pros/cons? thanks, mark

hey firehead why so little castor? to try and get it to turn quicker? you could try a bit more castor to get the weight jacking onto the outside tire through the turns.. run a little toe out to offset the slower steering nature of the increased castor firehead prolly knows alot more about this than me but i thought id throw that out there anyway, i might learn something from it!

your too rich on the right side pilot jet... is your air screw all the way in or blocked with something? did you overoil your filter?

have you done something silly like put the slide in backwards in the left carb? (mustnt have if its idling ok...) are the slides in sync? (open at exactly same time) float setting too high in the left carb? were the jets and dumps reamed and radiused or just drilled? there could be a difference in size if they werent reamed but it would have to be real bad to be the cause of this problem, and from what im told methanol is pretty forgiving in cases like that... try swapping the jets and dumps from left to right and see if the symptons swap sides too

does anyone have any pics of a quad with OMF wheels with a yellow beadlock? what size rim is a standard banshee rear rim? 8x11? and what is the offset? thanks, mark

is a 2-5 overrdie tranny ok to use for normal riding? how do they work? i already have a shift star etc and am not happy with how my banshee shifts under power, ie when trying to drag friends. will the override pop out of gear and so on if i back off in gear? will it be ok for flat track racing? thanks, mark

im really startin to get tired of the super hard clutch pull on my banshee with the 6 heavy duty springs in it im thinking of running an 8 plate set up (1 extra plate), and just 3 standard springs and 3 heavy do the hinson 8 plate kits run standard size banshee fibres and steels, and just use one more of each than normal? or do u have to use special plates? has anyone machined their inner clutch hub and pressure plate to fit an extra fibre and steel into the stock set up? i thought i saw someone had done it somewhere.. thanks, mark

i have heard alot about "zero pre load" shocks, but dont know much about em. why are they good? who makes zero pre load shocks? are they the only way to get ride height adjustment? what does adjusting the preload on a normal (aftermarket) shock do? any info/links greatly appreciated. thanks, mark

thanks for the replies i have heard about afco shocks, but when i looked on their website i couldnt see any quad stuff... where do u get em from? also, minus 2 or a minus 1 swingarm?

hi there im racing my banshee on oval tracks and TT style flat tracks. i was thinking of going +2+1 arms and running the stock offset front wheels, and some sort of zero pre-load, ride height adjustable shocks. is it worth getting +3+1 arms or is that too wide? also what shocks are good? thanks, mark

hey man what are the hoses that are connected to the intakes? what do they do, is it for the pulse pump?

hey man you got a link for somewhere good (cheap) to get asr arms? thanks, mark

hey broke, do you have any info on what brand/type that capacitor is? i need to get a new one for my setup and im unsure of what to get

you dont NEED race gas unless its detonating, doesnt matter what the guage says pull the head and look for signs of deto in there... pitting on the top of the piston and/or combustion chamber... having said all that i run 98 octane pump fuel in my bike and it has 180psi, no signs of deto whatsoever when i pull the head

thanks firehead! www.zeeltronic.com for the programmable ignitions and pv controller borut is awesome really knows his stuff and will answer any questions i paypal'ed him the money and got my parts like 2 weeks later no worries!

im sorry camatv but you are WRONG you obviously have little to no experience with RZ motors! rz motors are a straight forward swap, and every little issue you have with them is easily solved trans ratios: run the rz top end on the banshee bottom... easy, or even better, just swap a banshee tranny into the rz cases, so you can take advantage of the better rz shifting mechanism electrics: most rz motors are over 20 yrs old, anything that old is gonna have electrical problems. the good part is you can buy brand new, fully programmable cdi's and fully programmable pv control units, with hand held controller, for very little money. you can write whatever curve you like for the PVs to open and close, you can make em close further than stock, open higher than stock, you can make em do whatever you like! the electric motor that controls the pvs can also be had brand new, they are the exact same part that controls the exup valves on R1's. the pipe issue is not with the "huge rz head" it is the left pipe not clearing the left pv housing. this is an easy fix, you just machine a new super flat cover for the housing and all pipes will fit. (my toomeys fit with this anyway) if they still dont fit, space the pipe out at the pipe hanger, and/or massage a small dent in the pipe where it touces the pv housing. if you dont like any of those options, use paul turner pipes or rocket pipes. my 2 cents!

umm, yes it will.... this is why books such as graham bells give you an approximate rule on how big (wide) you can make your exhaust port and intake ports....

you guys are so lucky in the US, here in aus we get screwed on everything, $1200 is what a set of FMFs retail for! and our dollar is worth 90 us cents at the moment!

holy smokes man nothing you said makes sense! advancing your timing makes spark stronger and retarding weaker??? and bigger domes for higher compression?? NOPE advanced timing IN GENERAL will add to the bottom end and take away from the top, not sure if youll notice the loss in top on a stockish banshee though... in an ideal world youd run a custom ignition map which advance the ignition up to say 7000rpm then keeps the stock curve after that... but the timing plate set at +4 seems to be the banshee industry standard... dont go any more than +4 and ill bet youll be real happy with the gain down low and not notice any loss in top... higher compression also kills your top end power but thats another story for another day...

it must be a mikuni jet coz im pretty sure keihin jets stop at around 230 (at least for pwks anyway) if u need bigger keihin jets (for methanol etc) you have to get them reamed. oh yeah and keihin sizes are in millimeters, eg a 230 keihin is 2.3mm diameter hole in the jet. mikuni numbers represent flow through the jet. and if it is a tall mikuni when it is supposed to be a short mikuni jet, i think it will affect your jetting, as the tall jet will be protruding deeper into the fuel bowl. itll be like havin your float level set too high. mark.