4stroker

thetwostrokeshop is in australia, only about 4 hours away from me actually. just get the 1 inch offset sprock off them and turn it down to whatever you need? should be fairly cheap considering the exchange rate at the moment...

so its really as bad as everyone says it is huh? even just for a pure race bike, do the vibs bother you when racing?

anyone know the cheapest place online? thanks, mark

show us the pipes and a pic of this motor in the chassis!

really?? that is awesome if they do, i have been wanting to upgrade my brakes ever since i rode my friends KTM 450 quad, you could do stoppies on that thing easy! is there any advantage to using the disc too? (if it can be used) thanks, mark

is your long rod crank a stroker as well? if you are still only 54mm stroke, 66mm pistons will give you 370cc. once you got +4 stroke with the 66's you will have 400cc. if you use wiseco blaster pistons, you should still be able to use 66.25 and 66.5 over-bores. if you use blasters tho keep in mind you will need to cut the domes to suit and also the timing height of those pistons is 30thou shorter than a banshee piston, which will increase your durations considerably, especially your transfers. if your at stock transfer heights at the moment youll be fine other wise you can use thinner base gaskets to help combat the problem. (i run 66mm blaster pistons in my RZ for all the above reasons) once you have done the mods to the cases to run the cyls in reverse, wont any top end bolt on there? ie you could bolt a cub or cheetah on backwards as well? i would copy a set of CPI's or shearers, CPI's would be the easiest to measure and copy i reckon. i also have PCDI-10V going into my RZ very soon. I have been running the VCDI/PPV/CDI set up but had a warranty issue without so Borut replaced with PCDI, cant wait to get it installed and back on the dyno!

thats awesome man, great job! i like the fact that your out in the shed making your own parts and trying different things yourself! makes for alot more interesting reading than all the bloody "what jets should i run" threads on here! gonna build the pipes yourself? shouldnt be too hard with such a straight run back through the bike! might be a tight squeeze for large chambers though!

pro design manifolds suck get a boss racing intake with built in cross over

yep youll beat em.

Im gonna do a ground up rebuild of my banshee for next year, and am just tossing some ideas around in my head. i want every little thing on the bike looking like new (or better!). i am gonna PC the main chassis a-arms and swinger etc.. but what finish should i use on all the little parts? eg brake rotor hub sprocket carrier engine mounts wheel hubs spindles misc brackets etc... should I: zinc plate jet-hot coat chrome powder coat the bike is a flat-track/speedway race bike, so its gonna get speedway mud caked on it most weekends. therefore i want a coating that will look good for a long time and not require much maintanence. i also want some bling tho, so i guess im looking for the best compromise! thanks, mark.

still got these?

yeah man, if it runs hard and long, leave it! theres probly power to be had by leaning it out, but it wouldnt be much and leaning out when it doesnt really need it is a dangerous game! r u 100% sure it hasn't been ported? i have a set of RZ jugs with monster porting done to them, and with 35 keihin air strykers, they will pull 220 main jets (biggest keihin make) all the way to 10,500rpm, and the plugs look good. the more you lean it out from there though, the faster it gets... all im tryin to say is, every bike's different, just give it what it wants and be done with it!

can anyone tell me the PCD of the mounting holes in the stator plate? i want to advance my stock one 4 degrees for the weekend, havent got time to buy one! thanks, mark

am i the only one who thinks 340 mains sounds too rich for this bike? all the banshees i wrench on with the same mods run around the 300 mark for the mainjet, and we are at sea level, if anything hed be leaner at 1000ft. unless its the PTR hi revs that make it need a big jet? ive never had anything to do with them...

more than likely you either have: a) the slides in the wrong way around. the choke tube not connected back up some other things to check: blocked pilot jets stuck needle/seat (is fuel getting to the bowls?) TORS

If you have power core 2 silencers on your stock pipes now, then they are the silencers that fit the fatty pipes (and possibly gnarlys?). SST's also use silencers called power core 2s but the stingers are shorter and wont fit the Fatty pipes, and vice versa... So if you want to run SSTs you have to sell your current silencers and buy a complete SST set up. if it were me id just get fatty's. mark.

you will need the RZ CDI and harness too, then it will work. i think you may also need the RZ reg/rectifier. your from oz yeah? you should have asked on ozatv mate theres a few of us playin with these now!

yep i tried and tried and i cant get em to go any higher with the stock (keihin) adjusters. the cable is a new motion pro. looks like ill have to find or make some taller ones. yeah the pro design intakes arent worth a shit.. it has leaked on me before thats why it is siliconed up to the max in that pic... i have a boss intake on my other engine and it is the bomb. i am fixin to get one to replace this busted ass pro design. thanks for your help fellas, mark

i had the head off for other reasons and just took pics while i was in there...

snop did you click on the thumbnails to see the full size pics? if so what should i get pics of instead? it runs pretty damn good.

My mods: Shaved head +4 timing V force 3 reeds Pro design intake Keihin 33s Pods FMF Fattys Jetting: Pilot: 48, air screw 2 turns out Needle : CGL middle clip Main: 165 My fuel: 98 RON (93 MON?) pump gas, mixed 25:1 with Silkolene pro comp 2. My combustion chambers: My piston crowns: This bike is completely stock port and bore. Has run a long time like this and made 50hp on a dyno dynamics dyno. I am reluctant to lean it out but on my RZ motor with same fuel and oil mix there is not nearly as much carbon build up and you can see clearly where the transfers blow on the piston crown. sorry dont have a pic of that. thanks, mark

With my Keihin 33

hey guys i emailed wiseco and asked them for piston dimensions for a stock banshee piston, and this is what i got... Banshee 16mm wrist pin hole Timing edge: 1.100 (measured form top of wrist pin hole to timing edge). Dome rise: .160 Ring groove .0415 OAL 2.675 I am assuming that everything other than the wrist pin hole is in inches, sound right? Is the OAL measured from the timing edge, or from the top of the dome rise? I really wanted to know where the top of the top ring groove sat in relation to the timing edge, can anyone help me with this? thanks, mark

hey guys, i know its a banshee forum but i couldnt think of anywhere else to ask.. does anyone know of any builders/tuners/shops/online stores that specialise in the KX500? i am looking for stroker cranks, big bore kits, stronger gears etc... if anyone can point me in the right direction that would be much appreciated. thanks, mark.

ive been told by a few builders now to always use some assmebly grease on the crank seals.