4stroker

i know of a guy with a <100hp CR500 that does low 10s.. id say you will need a 150hp banshee engine to do a 9! it would look and sound way cooler than street bike engine too!

are they SB or BB?

so richer on the main and leaner on the needle?

bump

yeah man, im running the RZ ignition on my banshee, the start of the curve is advanced compared to the banshee and the end of it is stock, which is how you want it twinrock your from OZ arent you? ive got a mate coming round tonight to help me start wiring up my Zeeltronic Programmable Ignition and Programmable PV controller, cant wait!

that sounds like this guy; airtite. he has the same name on E2S airtite, where are you!! give us an update on your hybrid man! thanks, mark

hey man is that your thread on E2S?? if it is then you have done a great job! i am seriously contemplating this project over here in australia. i like what you did with the pipes, was that absolutely necessary though? do you think other pipes may fit? im thinking a set of PT mids would fit fairly easily, what do you think? does anyone else have any links or other info on banshee/yfz450 hyrbids? thanks, mark

im building a tough RZ motor and want to make sure the tranny and clutch are going to last. so far ive got the following: Billet Basket new OEM inner basket new OEM pressure plate F.A.S.T clutch pack pancake bearing what seals and or bearings are easily replaceable/renewable in the tranny and the clutch? also isnt there a shift shaft mod i can do? should i get a brand new shift shaft? itll be over 20 years old if i use the RZ one! i also understand that i need to get a shift star and easy spring. which are the best ones? this engine will be used for Flat Track/TT and speedway, so please dont suggest lock up clutches or override trannys! thanks, mark

thanks man, thats some good info what tread pattern does everyone run on the front? has anyone ever tried the "D" pattern hoosiers? (super chain link tread) if not, why not? thats what all the micro sprints use over here. also fastrnrik, which compund hoosier would be most similar to the american racer SD-33? my friend has SD-33s and says they are the go but i can get a good deal from a hoosier dealer over here, so which compound hoosier would be the same/similar? thanks again, mark

what size and compound rears are you guys using? im guessing the size is 63*10*10? also what size annd compound front? is it 57*6? are you using american racer fronts or hoosier? thanks, mark

so the a-arms and swinger are 250r items? ie you could take them off the outlaw chassis and put them on your 250r? what are the a-arms, +2, +3? what lenght is the swinger? do you need to use 250r hubs axles brakes etc? sorry for the newb questions! thanks, mark

if you have an RZ setup, did you replace the battery with a capacitor? if so, what brand/specs is the capacitor, and where did you get it? also, has anyone used any "Zeeltronic" programmable electricals on ther set up? thanks, mark

australia is probably a better place to find a dt200 top end, they were fairly popular here i think the yamaha WR200 is hotter again and the top end fits the blaster... dunno much about that one though...

you have answered your own question, you just dont know it yet! thats right, so with the larger carb, it isnt sucking as hard on the main jet as the smaller carb, so the main jet needs to be bigger to get the fuel flow through it so to recap that one: larger carb = larger main jet that is also correct! so once again, larger carb = larger main jet your two statements dont contradict each other, they go together!

yeah itd be a mikuni tm28?

yeah thats part of it. all 2 stroke carbs work on the same principle... airflow through the carb and over the dump tube causes a vacuum in the dump tube (which the main jet screws into). that vaccuum draws fuel up the tube and into the air stream to mix with the air. now smaller carbs have better air velocity than bigger carbs, meaning they suck harder on the main jet. which means they can get the required fuel with a smaller jet. once you go up in carb bore size, the volume of air in the carb is increased (helping top end power) but the air velocity goes down (hurting the throttle response and low end power) the main jet has to be bigger for two reasons now A) there is more air the vaccuum is less in the dump tube so a bigger hole is required in the main jet to get enough fuel up there a bigger cylinder bore size will increase the air velocity through the carb, (as will the right port job) if you did nothing else to your engine except increase the bore size dramatically, you would probably have to run leaner jetting than before. this is because the bigger pistons, on their induction stroke, would create more vaccuum in the intake tract, sucking harder on the main jet than b4. the bigger bore will also draw MORE air, making you think it will need more fuel to match, but the increased vaccuum has a greater effect than the increased volume. haha hope i havent confused you too much

were you running an airbox with the stock setup? the engine is gonna pull a weaker signal through the bigger carbs compared to your stock ones, so your gonna need to go up on the mainjet, probably the pilot too. you will have more airflow through the pods than an airbox, so thatll require bigger jets too. id say start at something like 340s and see if itll pull em

now i dont know what kind of carbs you bought, but they are probably supposed to be like that. keihin pwk's, mikuni tm's etc, dont have "left" carbs and "right" carbs. they are off single cylinder motocross bikes so when in pairs the carbs are just identical, with the chokes on the left side and the fuel feed too. and the chokes dont connect on these carbs. the stock banshee setup is the only carbs that are left and right, with the chokes connecting.

stock carbs?? 190s are really small jets for mikunis... yeah once i get my manifold i can throw it all on and try it out, should be interesting i think ill just get the bigger bowl straight up

thats a great post! thanks for all the replies guys. i will take them into my local machine shop when i get a chance, have been working out of town lately so its a PITA. will let you all know what they say thanks again, mark

sorry i thought you were commenting on the port job itself, rather than the question of them being sleevable or not they arent junk at the moment, they are on 66.0mm bore, and have run hard and been reliable. but i want to go to a 4mm crank with 5mm rods, and because of the high port timings already i cannot use a spacer plate, so have to use 795 series pistons. correct me if im wrong but i believe the biggest 795 piston you can get is a 66.0mm... can you get a wiseco hot rods stroker crank with stock length rods? if not and i make one, will the pistons hit the crank wheels at BDC? i know you can get bigger bore sizes with blaster pistons, which would work with the +5mm rods, but im having domes made now for the 795 piston set up, and the blasters piston crown profile is different, and id need new domes for blaster pistons then. which probably wouldnt be so bad, but yeah.... anyway guess i just answered my own question lol: if it cant be sleeved ill just use blaster pistons and get new domes made!

why, coz it aint all pretty and smooth? they actually run really hard so back to the actual topic at hand: do the people out there who know what they are talking about, think these can be re-sleeved? thanks, mark

hey guys ive got some banshee barrels that have a killer port job, but they are on their last bore there isnt much meat left in the the transfer runners, ie, alot of the aluminium that is in contact with the iron sleeve is gone, the outside of the sleeve has even been made thinner and re-shaped where it drops down into the crank case. has anyone ever re-sleeved a barrel like this b4? do you think it can be done with all that material missing? thanks, mark

why cant they be re-sleeved man? can you show me some pics of the exhaust ports, i am interested

thanks for the offers guys pm me some pics and we will go from there! thanks, mark