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4stroker

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Everything posted by 4stroker

  1. can you show us a pic with K&Ts signature? also can you get some quick and easy measurements please? 1. top of deck to roof of exhaust port (mm) 2. top of deck to roof of transfer ports (mm) 3. width of exhaust port actually a good pic of the exhaust port would help too. thanks, mark
  2. i would be interested if they had K&T signature on them and you could tell us more about the port eg exhaust and transfer duration
  3. you wont be dissapointed with the DMCs mate especially compared to T5's.
  4. thats what a buddy and i found too, switching from T5s to 916's on the same bike, on the same day, drag racing on the bitumen against my bike for comparison. his bike is stock port, stock bore, noss 21cc head, +4 timing, K&N filter, no lid. he was running my T5s for a few weeks while waiting for his 916's to turn up, so he had the jetting dialed for the T5s already. the day the 916s turned up, we whacked em on without changing a thing, power came on sooner, stronger, and had more top end too. this was all backed up by second gear rolling starts against my bike on the bitumen. his accelerated quicker than b4, with more top end too. of course it wasnt night and day difference, but better none-the-less...
  5. and it seems that there is enough demand for 916's, that they are putting them BACK INTO production! out of interest have you dyoned a DMC setup?
  6. there are alot of people who would say the same about pro-circuits.... each to their own i guess!
  7. um did you have rings on the piston when you put it in the hole lol?
  8. you can get em for $525 shipped in the general discussion thread...
  9. my pv servo quit on me on a ride once with my RZ cyls, so i set the pvs in their middle position and kept riding, worked fine. just play with it, it might be ok with them set all the way open (or taken out) or it may be total crap, just have to try it, you wont hurt anything, other than the power delivery!
  10. do u guys know of "the kangaroo kid" matt coulter? he is a pom but lives in australia, has been doing quad stunts for years, famous for jumping over paddle steamers and helicopters etc... anyway he has a quadzilla with an RZ500 motor in it, pretty sure there are a few other ones floating around on the net, do a search on google. from what i can gather its pretty hard to get them to make anything over 100hp reliably, so a well tuned cub or cheetah etc would probably smoke it anyway. if your heart is still set on doing it (would look and sound cool if nothing else) check out www.rzrd500.com for parts and info.
  11. have you got a different list with more people on it? i thought we'd have more on this list than 4...
  12. you have a pm man i will def take one set, possibly even 2 or 3, just waiting to hear back from some riding buddies 2twin350's....1 set 4stroker.......1 set
  13. that other guys (airtite?) with the cut and shut DG pipes looked awesome. so your using RZ cylinders? are you going to use the zeeltronic set up? www.zeeltronic.com
  14. raise the front back up and dont dump the clutch, ride it out
  15. start a tally on here, i would buy some
  16. the keihin pwk 33 and 35mm carbs are the same carb body, just the 35 is bored bigger. get the boss intake 34-35, you will love it, lifts those carbs right up and off he clutch arm an deletes the boost bottle. what pipes are you running? i had to run angled pods on my bike to clear the CPI stingers.
  17. you can buy a conversion kit from the twostrokeshop.com that converts the cheetah pv's to electronic operation by the YPVS system (eg RZ or aftermarket such as zeeltronic) http://www.twostrokeshop.com/two_stroke_sh...ngines.htm#ypvs this would be the ultimate set up in my opinion. i made great improvements to my 4mm RZ's powerband by writing custom power valve and ignition curves for it with the zeeltronic.
  18. how do u figure that? wouldnt you like a nice broad power band with the peak power of a drag ported cylinder? having said that though, there is alot of fucking around with them. you need the complete RZ electrical system, including stator, flywheel, cdi, servo and controller. or you could just buy a zeeltronic cdi (www.zeeltronic.com), an R1/R6 exup servo (easy to find on ebay) and run your banshee stator and flywheel. you would then have a programmable ignition (comes with hand held programmer) and programmable pv controller. the zeeltronic set up would prob run you $300 and the servo another $100. you would have to get it wired yourself but its piss easy, comes with the diagrams and everything. so if ur gettin the cyls cheap and your mechanically inclined, it will work out really really good. what pipes have u got at the moment? you need to make a super flat pv cover so the left pipe clears. my toomeys fitted fine with this setup. oh yeah does it come with the head? banshee head wont fit.
  19. i had fatty's on my stock port motor and then tried the CPI's for a laugh. they were ordinary, i put the fattys back on. on my 4mil RZ motor though, the CPIs haul!
  20. swap the pressure plate in from your bike and put it all back together with the extra steel taken out. see if it all adjusts up ok.
  21. it wouldnt slip or anything as the steels are driven by the inner hub. it would however throw the adjustment right out, as it is effectively the same as one really thick steel. the basket isnt neccesarily what defines an 8 plate set up, you need to change the inner hub and pressure plate to run 8 plates. maybe this guys bike was running some odd ball mix of clutch parts, like a stock inner hub with a 8 plate pressure plate, or vice versa, which required the extra steel to take up the slack. pretty weird though. throw some pics up of the pressure plate and inner hub before you go any further.
  22. huh? ill bet he had a hard time adjusting it! or is everything so worn he threw an extra steel in as a cheap fix? there should only be 6 steels, 7 fibres... fibres are on the ends hence less steels..
  23. im pretty sure none of the quads and mx bikes out at the moment are actually closed loop injection systems like on cars, eg no 02 sensor in the exhaust. therefore they wont automatically adjust for different elevations/temps etc. this means you need a laptop and software to "rejet" rather than just a bag of jets and a spanner or two...
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