4stroker

My buddies 7mm trex is chewing through reed petals at an alarming rate. when its running, it runs good, real good. at one race meet (flat track) it progressively got slower all day before finally stopping altogether. upon tear down it was found that a reed petal off the left blcok had completely vanished, and all the rest were frayed and damaged. all the screws were tight. he put some brand new petals in it,, and after 3 race meets, (not even 40 laps) it did the same thing, only this time it was the right side. all the other petals were damged too though, they seem to be deteriorating at the roughly the same rate, just whichever one happens to let go first stops the motor... has anyone seen this or had it happen before? we are thinking they are hitting against wall of the reed blcok area on the cylinders. like they need some sort of stopper or something? thanks, mark

well if its a complete kit, that replaces the following: intake manifold - $150 Carbs - $300 CDI - $250 then i think that $900 is not too bad, if it does indeed do what you say it does. i know there is a guy over on the rz350 forums who has been running a microsquirt system for years with great success.

hey man can you show me where you have seen the rockstar graphics?

a drag race (pro stock) engine builder here in aus says he can usually get up to 5% more power out of his engines with oxygenated race fuel compared to methanol. the kx500 guru over at kxriders.com has told me the same thing with his big power kx5s. anyone on here tried it in there banshee? im gonna try it in my 4mm RZ, i have some 200psi domes for it and a programmable ignition, should be fun. it costs alot more per liter, but you dont use as much of it, and you dont have to purge. mark.

i have used FMF (fattys and SSTs) Toomey T5s, and CPIs with my RZ cyls. i just made a new super flat cover for the pv housing out of a sheet of aluminium, and used a spacer on the pipe hanger. easy as pie.. also, in your other thread, are you saying that you cant fit twin carbs with the rockets?

As the title says I want to buy a Laeger Pro-Trax banshee chassis. (250R geometery) would prefer just rolling chassis but will consider whole quads if the price is right. will also consider lonestar chassis and any other brand of the same description. (as far as im aware there are 1 or 2 other smaller companies that made a 250R geo chassis that took banshee engine and bodywork). pm me on here or email me at mark.tomarchio@mwhglobal.com thanks, mark.

As the title says I want to buy a Laeger Pro-Trax banshee chassis. (250R geometery) would prefer just rolling chassis but will consider whole quads if the price is right. will also consider lonestar chassis and any other brand of the same description. (as far as im aware there are 1 or 2 other smaller companies that made a 250R geo chassis that took banshee engine and bodywork). pm me on here or email me at mark.tomarchio@mwhglobal.com thanks, mark.

Jim has built two motors for me and my buddy so far, a 4mm RZ and a 7mm Trex, and is currently building a third for me. he spent hours on the phone to us helping us dial them in and explaining his mods. they both run extremely hard, very happy with them. i buy all my parts off him too. his customer service is second to none. he can be a little hard to get hold of sometimes but that is to be expected. the best way to contact him is by phone in the evening, but if he doesnt answer its coz hes in the middle of a tig weld or porting a cylinder! thanks, mark

put up the dyno sheet id love to see it

i know every dyno is different and the numbers dont actually mean much, but who cares, thats not the point of this excercise, i just thought it would be cool to see some dyno sheets! show us yours!

i see people talking all the time on here about 100hp+ cubs and cheetahs etc... not to mention 80hp+ drag ported stock cyl bikes... has anyone on the hq actually run a number like this on a dyno and has the sheet to prove it? if so, id like to see it! in fact id like to see anyones dyno sheets, with a short description of their engine mods.. to get the ball rolling, heres mine: Stock bore, stock port milled stock head FMF Fattys V force 3 reeds keihin 33 pwk's RZ ignition thanks, mark

I bought Marcus' 10mm cheetah off him, price was good, parts were in excellent condition and as described. paid the man on thursday morning and had a fed-ex tracking number that afternoon! thanks man, much appreciated! Mark.

do you think that could be due to using a dyno-jet or similar, which being intertia dynos, can only measure a full throttle run, and not actually test engines under load over all rpms, like the way a dyno dynamics dyno can?

that looks awesome man, you are doin a great job! just a word of advice on the zeeltronic, i would make a sealed box to put it in or at least make a plug for where the hand controller plugs in. i got mine wet and it fried it. mark.

you have pm man i want the trans

how much do you want for the top end? (cylinders, pistons, head reeds intakes etc..)

you have a pm i will take that thing off your hands

yeah its cheap as chips, $1000 in the development of this thing is nothing compared to everything else that has to be made/bought!

i drew up an over size KX500 piston for a buddy's stroker kx500, and had wiseco quote me on it. they wanted $249.95 for each piston and minimum run of 4 pistons. the bore size and skirt length on that piston was custom, but the bore size was exactly the same as a CR500 piston, and the ring land dimensions were the same too, so we could have just used cr500 rings, saving the cost of needing rings made too i guess.

does the piston stick out approx 5mm?

what are the all new parts?

here here its best to call him after hours around 7pm believe it or not. he is a very busy guy, cut him some slack.

ive seen a stock banshee with just DMC aliens and a filter pull 11,400 in 4th gear not sayin it made any power up there but it pulled the revs!

i know a local dyno operator who changed nothing else but the head on a well set up banshee, and lost 2 hp going from a stock head with 20 thou off it to a pro design head with 20cc domes. a big name US builder has also told me pro design domes dont have a very good combustion chamber design and that noss are much better.

is that brand new??