Dave I.

Wow, you expect anyone to be able to help you with that question. How about a little more detail.....leaking water out of 2 screws.......okay.

Thats like the ford version of my favorite car. 62-65 Nova. Looks like its in decent condition. Start getting on the ford/mustang message boards and spending a lot of money. :biggrin:

why would you want to replace the hard lines with stainless braided lines?

1. Dont let neighbors ride your banshee 2. Buy a Clymers Manual 3. Buy a pancake bearing 4. Enjoy the time spent with your machine while splitting the cases and learning what makes a banshee work There is no easy way. Just get'r done so you can go ride again.

The pictures arent the best. I cant find my good camera right now but I will try to take some more. 392 cub, 35pwk, shearer in frames, vp110 fuel 50 pilot, CEL 4th down from top, 160 main. They are a little darker than chocalate, they are almost a grey color. Looks like I may still be a little rich.

Get your cylinders ported and you wont have to worry about asking these questions. :biggrin:

bansheefreak has one i believe.....4 mill also....he loves it from what he has told me.

Get the cub, you will love it. I just got mine going about 2 weeks ago and it has been a blast.

I dont think that the +4 swing arm is pointless. When I had similar mods (bolt ons) I couldnt keep the front end down ever when I would try to launch. That was even launching in second gear with stock gearing. I would have bought a +4 if I had kept my bike in that form. I dont know who made the rules of how much of a swing arm you can run but I dont think they apply to everyone. As for the reason why you dont feel any performance gain. I didnt really have any seat of the pants change with any of the mods you did other than the +4 timing. If you didnt feel anything with a timing change you should double check and make sure you have it installed correctly.

Looks good. Go ride it and have some fun. tell us how it was.

Moneybags is a good seller. Someone should get these pipes they are real nice.

Looks nice. Lifted fords always look good. I wish it wouldnt cost an arm and a leg to lift my chevy.

ordered new ends from RMATV Dave

I dont see how it could. If you think about it....A thinner gasket will just change how far in or out of the cylinder the piston will be. Basically changing your "squish" as everyone here calls it. It will do nothing to make your combustion chamber smaller which is what milling the head will do.

I need right (clutch cover) side tie rod heim joints with or without the tie rod. I am not sure if both sides are the same thats why I specified clutch cover side. Thanks Dave

Well I guess im not the only one who ends up with spare parts some times. When I was putting my cub together I had everything all done and ready for a leak down test. Then I looked over and saw my water plugs sitting on the work bench.....Yep, I got to take it apart and put those in. Dave

Im with fouled....run 20cc domes and it will give you more options with timing...id say you will "feel" more power with timing than you will out of 1 cc smaller dome.

I love the LS based plateform but they sound like ass with or without exhaust...but dont make it any worse than it needs to be.

There is the slide, the needle drops down inside the slide, and sits on the little E clip that holds it on whatever notch you have it on. Then there is the cable holder that screws into the slide and holds the needle in place. Run your cable through the cap, then the spring, then the little white plastic collar, hook it into the cable holder and then the white plastic collar slides over the cable holder and holds the cable in place.

I some how managed to twist the head off of one of my idle mixture screws on my 35 pwks....I ordered a new one but its going to take about a week to get it. I was hoping some might have a spare parts carb lying around and could get me the screw quicker. Let me know. Thanks Dave

I am looking for jetting ideas and help. I am having a hard time with the air screw. I had it running decent yesterday with the carbs out of the box. I tried fine tuning them with the carb synch tool and ive got everything out of adjustment. When I have the air screws out 1.5 turns like everyone says it wants to idle really high. There is no tension on the slides so I know they are bottomed out. If I take the screws out a little more (more than 2 turns) I can get it to idle ok but I dont think that is correct. My jetting is 165 main, 48 pilot, cel needles on the 4th clip from the top. When it is sitting at an idle and I hit the throttle to wide open it has a little hesitation then revs up. Im not sure where to start now. 68x54 cub cleaned up by Jeff 35pwk Shearer sb in frames 19cc domes timing +7 VF3 reeds VP 110 fuel 15/41 gearing for dirt/asphalt +6 swinger Pod filters Lightened flywheel Let me know what you think. Dave

Maybe we can go ride next friday. I have the day off so if i get back to town soon enough we can go for a ride. Dave

170 is what Jeff told me to start with. So thats what i used. Dave

Well I finally got my bike up and running. It is soooooo much fun. These cubs really have some power. I just have the stock stroke 68mm bore 392 but it is still a lot of fun. It just has a clean up port from Jeff but still has plenty of useable power. Definitely not a total dog on the bottom end like most say. I will agree that it would be a hand full on tight trails. Anyway, I cant wait to get it fully broke in and really let it rip. Rich jetting till it gets broke in 170 mains, 48 pilot, cel on the 4th clip 68x54 cub cleaned up by Jeff 35pwk Shearer sb in frames 19cc domes timing +7 VF3 reeds VP 110 fuel 15/41 gearing for dirt/asphalt +6 swinger Pod filters Its a whole lot of fun. Cant wait to run it again tomorrow. Any of you cub guys have any input let me know. Dave

yea thats what i ended up doing.....thanks for the help. Dave