Dave I.

pismo is open to red year round now too.

I really think you are gonna have a hard time finding many people that want a SLS.....Most people will figure they can get regular haulers new with rims for less than you are asking for just the tires.....The average RMATV paddle buyer doesnt realize what SLS cost... I got the same exact tires you are selling for 260 with blue lables. They were only used twice. So you might want to drop the price a little or just hang on to them.

Ok, put them back up for sale and was messaged asking to hold them a little longer....I guess 2 months waiting for payment is plenty of time. So....anyone want these they are back up. Dave

There is a line coming from your clutch cover, and a line coming from the vent at the back of the case under the rear engine mount. They both "T" up near the carburetors and the third line heads to the front of the bike and runs up one of the frame tubes and just stops up near the radiator. Thats how mine were ran from the factory.

Here is step 1. Step 1: pull the clutch cover. Step 2: the rest is pretty obvious from there. Its a pretty simple deal. Dont need a clymers for this job. Just dive in.

pros: everything cons: looking like a gorilla because your arms are stretched out from trying to hang on when you get it built right.

not sure if he sold them yet or not but 530grafix has a real nice set of sb cpi inframes for sale.

wow, i dont know what to tell you. Ill be keeping an eye on this post to see what the pros say.... You could get a mighty vac type deal and run the hose through your intake and through the holes in your pistons and try to suck it out....

You need anything else in trade, i am interested in the carbs but dont have a lot of cash....

68x54, 19 cc domes, 185 psi

Here is the leak down tester I made. It worked good also. 1 1/4" PVC sprinkler pipe (Home Depot) 1 1/4" Caps (Home Depot) 1/4" barbed fitting (Home Depot) Valve stem of your choice (Auto parts store) Vaccum/Pressure gauge (Sears or Auto parts store) 1 1/2" Rubber expansion plugs. (Auto parts store) Drill and tap one cap for the barbed end, Drill and install valve stem in other cap, Glue caps on pipe. I also chamfered the end of the pipe a little to help it into the intake boot.

I had to get a longer one. Got it from Jeff, dont know how much longer it was.

Last week you couldnt even spell case splitting.....now you want to do it? Yea go for it.....there isnt any spot you get into that someone on here cant talk you through. The internet is the best thing ever.

Id imagine you could put it in gear and have someone hold the back brake while you bust it loose.

I think thats the same fibers Jeff farm and sand toys uses in his clutch kit. I have Jeff's clutch kit and it has been holding up well for about 9-10 months. I had it with my bolt on motor and now using it with my cub. Dave

Order a flywheel puller from whoever you are getting the plate from. You need an impact and a 16 or 17mm socket. Pull the peg off, pull the shift lever off, pull the cover off, buzz the nut holding the flywheel off with the impact, use your flywheel puller and pull the fly wheel, 3 screws to get the plate/stator off the case, take the stator off the plate, put stator on new plate, put plate on, use blue lock tight on all screws, set your timing to where you want it by lining up the timing mark up on the plate with the split between the cases....reverse order for the rest of the stuff....its easy. Dave

How far did you have the motor apart? Just the top end? Cases split? Is there fluid in the transmission? I would take the clutch cover off and take a look. Also check and see if your chain is binding. If everything worked when you took it apart then it should work when you put it back together... Dave

I think there was a post similar to this not too long ago.....i think wiseco makes a piston for stock stroke but long rod. Im not positive on that though.

2 with each piston, sorry i didnt make that clear....you should have 4 total.

They must have thrown in an extra. There should only be two. Just save the extra one in case you send one flying and cant find it.

I dont remember if those bolts go into water or not but no its not normal to be leaking. There is an o-ring that seals the inlet to the head. Check and see if the bolt is tight, or take the bolt out and see if it has any thread sealer on it.

My stock stroke runs good. its not a 421 and never will be but from what Im told, a 392 should only be a couple tenths off of a 421 when built equally. Now in a timed drag race with lights, 2 tenths is a lot. When you are at the dunes or just screwing around a couple tenths of a second isnt as big of a deal since most of the time no one ever launches at exactly the same time. From what I gather its a riders race and having the right setup. But in all reality a 421 should always have the edge. If a guy has a 421 weighs 250lbs and the guy on the stock stroke weighs 150, well...there goes 421guys lead right there.......there are way too many variables....build what you can afford and ride it like you stole it....

Just get a clymers and go for it. It will be a good learning experience.

what is your elevation? Did you check your squish when you built it? About getting up or wheelies, you might be spinning the tires...these cubs have some major hit...

I love riding mine. The only thing id say a cub wouldnt be good for is really tight trails. But if you only used it once in a while for tight trails I think it would still be ok. If I would have listened to the nay sayers and not got my cub I would be kicking myself in the nuts. So much fun to ride.