RagunCajun

woops, i meant eccentric screw, not essential.

Then that would be a no on who has more mph since it was by two lengths and no X amount of mph. Set up can go a long way. Gettting off the line better can make up a couple lengths on the big end if it's to a set distance like 300 feet. I personally wouldnt go with a 15t front unless you have smaller than 20" tires. But hell, sprockets are cheap, cant hurt to try it

Why is the 700 so much reliable than a 450? Engine doesnt have to work as hard since it has more displacement?

I adjust my airscrew based off off idle response.

Gonna have to disagree on the extended swing arm unless you ride in sand. Mine(stock swinger arm) makes good power but doesnt wheelie up unless i really want it too. It usually breaks loose. But if she hooks, it will throw the front up. Mostly a personal preference. I hate stretched bikes due to decreased handling. then again, my stock suspension sucks

As odd of a subject this is, it's a damn good one! I recently god rid of my craftsmen plastic tool holder(box) all my stuff came in. Now it's in a box with multiple shelves. Freakin sockets all over the place and so damn hard to find. I am going to get one of those metal things to put my sockets on but then again, looking for them isnt so bad......ok im just cheap

Correct me if im wrong: 4mil gives about 10% power all around. Also doesnt it move the power curve as well? I personally noticed the powerband came on more smooth too. I cant comment on the power increase of the 4mil crank because i did other mods when i stroked my engine.

If a bike doesnt break, you either ride like a pansy or dont ride it at all I will get a 4 stroke one of these days. They are nice and the power delivery is different. Keepin the shee of course

Makes sure your clutch is good and adjusted correct of course. But see if your essential screw is adjusted right. Also check the shift start. If someone took too much metal off, it will pop out of gear. Also sometimes that along with a shift pro shift kit might make it pop out of gear. Just refer to the clymer manual to adjust those things. But remember the bike only shift properly when in motion.

Very well put. It was a good $50 in investment for me. I must have a crisp engine. So along with some good aftermarket reeds, the sync tool is a must for me. You can split the cost with another banshee buddy if money is tight. These days I know it can be rough to set aside money for toys.

Well what kind of race was if? One to see who Has more mph? With a 15t front u will accelerate slower making your bike not as quick in a drag race. But yeah you will get more mph in each gear and all the gears will last a Little lOnger.

my ported 4 mill ran awesome on stock carbs. You are good to go. It's mostly a preference. Might get a little more top end from bigger carbs. Whoever is porting your jugs should be able to help you out on that.

OP, that's the same set up i had a couple years ago just i got them ported elsewhere. Ran like a champ and it was all around a great bike. +1 on ditching the air box unless you ride in mud/water.

Anything is easy to work on once you know what you are doing.

http://www.google.com/m/url?ei=T0VeTIDrBo6Rtgf2jJkg&q=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v%3D8FDcsojwVxc&ved=0CBEQtwIwAA&usg=AFQjCNGLYYVxOBzco7UZygVud3j8L5HI3g That's a video how to do it at idle. He also has a partial throttle how to video. I thought those were sticky'ed but couldn't find them. As for the part where you need to be partial throttle, it can be any part of the throttle off idle. Lower the more accurate. You can save yourself a lot of time and just use a zip tie to hold the throttle. Zip tie the thumb part to the grip or bar. Have something to cut the zip tie just in case you make it too tight and rev it to hell. I personally like it at 7 or lower on the gauge.

Use small zip ties to take care of where the fuel line meets the brass inlet. Not the kind you find at the hardware store. You need the smaller types usually round in hobby shops that sell nitro/electric r/c cars. I faught with that also. Only thing that worked was tiny zip ties. And search my oko thread to learn about the drilling for more fuel. And make damn sure you set the float height correctly before you even fire the bike up.. That has causes many of us to pull our hair out

damn a stock banshee that spanks a yfz450. You sir have the fastest stock banshee i've heard of. welcome to HQ!

A very good thread! This is why everybody should do a leakdown test after a rebuild !

Post up some pics showing how it moves the clutch actuator. How it's mounted there etc please.

Well it serves the purpose(it doesnt slip). I have the vito's type. My only con i have is that you have to tip the bike over to work on it. But i like it's stealth and MUCH cheaper than the direct drive I wouldnt have a banshee w/o one now

A modded shift star and u forget about the clutch after you take off? i dont get it. Anyways, i have an override but i like the lightest pull. Anyone else got any info?

Anyone have that streamline one installed? I'm curious how the case side of the kit "installs"/attaches. If i like it, i might buy one. I'm VERY particular about my clutch pull. I'ma sissy and like a light pull. Which is why i run a slingshot with 3/3hd springs. Lighter pull than 6HD springs and NO slip

I disagree. I and a few others feel it was cheaper to run a milled head. I only have a purple(yes wtf is a purple head doing on an 2001 ) noss head because my bike came with it. I've read on here that cooling heads dont help cool off the bike. I've read the best way to do it is by upgrading the radiator. I personally dont know since i've never experimented with that and everyone has their opinion. I prefer to look at testing rather than a guess. Hell, i use water wetter now and dont even know if it actually works. I just no it foams a little in my see through radiator lines

Mine came with a cooling head so i never had the chance to fool with a stock one. It's nice to see someone noticed a drop in tempature from one. I would think that the best way to lower temps would be a better radiator. Then again, as long as you are moving, the stock one should work fine.

Shops gotta make a living. We all know people are just gonna say he paid too much On the bright side, at least his new banshee will be running like a champ. Thats better than working on a new bike and potentially messing it up. He can just enjoy it when he gets it back