RagunCajun

Some good tires and pipes. It worked for me.

pancake bearing helps to prevent the ball and rod from welding together. Those push the pressure plate out on the clutch. The modded shift star makes the transmission find the gears a little easier. The bushing/bear goes into the dips of the star easier. Shift star will help a little. There's also the shift pro shift kit. It makes the shifter easier to go up and down. I had both and still hated it. Ended up going with an override.

Yes, get another wheel. That thing fails when you are driving you could die or worse, kill someone else.

props for not going with some 26" ghetto rim or something like that

If the deal falls through, I might take it depending on a few details. I'll book mark this page and check back.

What gear you launch in depends on set up and driver skill. I personally will launch in the highest gear possible that doesnt spin or bog. Sadly, that's 1st for me lately. Less shifting is better unless of course we put an override into the equation.

My hack job

19cc domes here as well. I can't run pump gas. Just something to think about. I know for some 8$ a gallon is a little too high. But boy is it fun

Mph has to do with rpm and gearing for the most part. If you don't have as much power as before in the higher rpm range you will stop top out the same but might take a little longer to get there. You can always change sprockets to get more mph but then you would take Away bottom end power. Only way to keep bottom and and increase mph is adding more power. That gets expensive. Advancing timing also increases throttle response. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Great post 12 o'clock. Pick up 10 hp by switching t6 to t5 pipes? First I've heard. My bike ran awesome with t6 pipes and they do good with porting. Shears are of course a good drag pipe. IMO it's not how much power a set of pipes make. What's important to me is where it makes power and how. But I'm going off topic here so I'll stop As for stock carbs, they are fine. You can stroke it and run tons of compression and they will work great. IMO leave them along till later down the line. And money you spend on stock carb mods can be used to pick up a set if 28pwk or 30oko. If you go too big of a carb u can sacrifice bottom end. If you decide to get your bike ported down the line, ask the builder what he suggest. They can help you the most.

You can run more compression(requires race fuel) and/or stroke the bike. You can also run more timing. That may also require race fuel depending on how much. That will give you a lot more power off the pipe. IMO low end on a banshee means power off the pipe.

Wow your sig pic is big. Nice bike. doubt you have even close to 85hp. But dyno numbers are pointless, just enjoy the bike. Make sure it's jetted correctly, fluids are new etc. Welcome to the obsession!

Leave the pieces when u go <3

Did you rejet your bike?

I hated this conversion and loved the day i went back to stock. I tried adjusting it a bunch of ways. Maybe something i missed, not sure. Gonna go with some wicked a-arms and fox shocks in the future so i can do it right.

thread wasnt created to bash MJ. He barely post. This is something in general i noticed.

override FTW!!!

t6's or t5's work well. But you wont have much till you in the powerband. Just the nature of the bike.

Even well taken care, a banshee can break. But that goes for any quad.

Might wanna put and explain lockouts, stiffer springs, and maybe an override is recommended and why. Would help newer guys understand. That way they dont buy a $1500 set up and cant afford to make it work well.

Says a lockout clutch is recommended. I've read a few places that an override is recommended with a lockout. And the link on that site says performance head. Maybe you can explain that. To some a milled stock head might be a performance head.

Where's a link to tell the prices of everything needed to make this work. I'm debating trying this because i already have a 4mil longrod crank. I'm afraid the power wont be as smooth as my current set up. That's $200 for the pistons, $700 for the cylinders and heads/domes/stub extenders?

As soon as i quit working nights.

If you go to $90 shipped. im your huckleberry

Xhumeka, just give RJATV a call. I never really spent much time on his site. I always called. But yeah, that kit is similar. I'm sure any kit will work. Might not be the EXACT bolt but one or more will most likely work in the kit.