RagunCajun

Lets you have a light pull since you can run much lighter springs. However, it may cause it to be hard to power shift.

if it shift fine, nothing.

Very good point about bolt on's with stock stroke. Just about any mod you do can transition over to a 4 in most cases. Just dont worry about being the fastest. That's when your wallet dies and a simple play/trail bike turns into a drag bike. And going in a strait line all the time with your only bike gets boring for some people.

IMO weld and true it by a reputable shop. If you go 4mil, might as well get it ported so you dont have to use spacers. Then you can tell yourself since you doing that, you might as well do a few other things to really make it more efficient. In the end, you spent way more than you wanted to. Plus you are stuck riding on crap stock suspension.

Yup. I should of mentioned that. Thanks

I wish that would take place here......

As a quality cotrol inspector in 2 big machine shops and a former CNC machinist, i agree. Also no two machinist are equal. IMO it probably comes down to design, not the programming since it was programmed to the print. I decided to run my stock cover with my lock up. May look into the matoon and powder coat it black in the distant future. I prefer the stock cover OEM look.

I really hope you already have full suspension or planning on getting it. If i had to do it all over again, id of done suspension before building a 4mil.

pick a site sponsor, call them up and tell them what you are looking for. It also helps if you dont change your font color from default. It's hard to read other wise. post #2 quoted it making it easier for us to read Good luck with your choice.

18 pages and all we get is 9 seconds...

You thought right.

^ Then i been doing it wrong for years. Good thing i dont let others tell me how i should set up my bike.

comparing a forced induction 2 stroke against a N/A 4 stroke?

The problem isnt lack of power. Its power delivery. 4 strokes put down power better. Keep the banshee for open fields and backyard fun and get a 450. With more power, you will have more tire spin.

May want to go up to a 14 tooth front sprocket.

I wouldnt think +2 made that big of a difference. I guess +4 is what iil try if I stretch it. Anyone got a videos of their serval playing around?

So you wouldnt of trailed it with a +4? I plan on trying a stock swingarm with my 521 serval. Should be a fun wheelie machine and come up easy with my pro wedges. If all else fails, ill put my override back in and stretch it. Althogh strait line stuff gets boring.

At least you are doing the right thing. I had to get an impact gun and seal off other things first time i did it as well. When you are done, you will have confidence in a leak free engine.

You can make one for pretty cheap. I had the link bookmarked but i lost it. Maybe someone else can chime in. You can use the stock bumper rubbers and tow hose clamps to seal off the exhaust. leak down tester: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=110585

Be sure to do a leak down test regardless of what you do.

You never know what the future brings. He could go bigger one day.

What about some r/c lexan paint? Im not sure if it would hold up to the trans fluid. Youd have to paint the inside of the lense to get best results.

With a clymer manual, it makes splitting the cases pretty easy. If ever you take the cylinders off and/or split the cases, you need to do a leak down test. No exceptions. An air leak can cause lots of head aches and at worst, hurt your motor. I think there's a sticky on here on how to build a leakdown tester yourself. I would strongly consider getting the cylinders ported at the same time you get the crank welded/trued. Ship once and do it all at once. Or you can do a 4mil crank at the same time but that isnt needed. Porting the cylinders offers way more power/fun over a stroker crank.

pro wedge 2's are discontinued. the 4 snows arent. They are very light and hook hard in grass/dirt. They grow 2-3 inches depending on mph to it stretches your gearing out in a sense. I love them. However, im taking mine off as well as my override. Going strait up play bike. drag racing gets old. atvgalaxy(forum sponsor) has elka stage 3's for about $1400 front and rear together. Something to think about. But just enjoy your bike. Once the mod bug bites, there is no end.

If you can find some 4 snow's or pro wedges local, try them out for a few minutes. It will hook harder than you can imagine on dirt/grass. You can keep your current rear set up for when you want to trail ride or slide the rear end around. You already have a great engine. Just make sure jetting is good. If i can recommend any mods, it would only be wider a-arms with better shocks all around.