RagunCajun

People usually port it at the same time because they want the best bang for the buck and least down time. Might as well get the most ridable power you can while it's getting ported. Unless you do a spacer plate and skip porting the jugs for the 4mil. I'm not sure why you would want to add metal to a cylinder to make it slower. Plus stock cylinders are usually cheap.

If "if" was a 5th we would all be drunk.

unless you have vegas jeff put your peak numbers on your seat over, you are doing it wrong.

My truck runs 11.4's at 119ish. But the gearing, driver and a lot of factors have a lot left on the table. I'm told im all 60' but i dont understand what that means lol. but anyways...back on topic IMO a banshee e/t's better for it's mph is because the gearing, clutch transmission is way more efficient at what is does. Especially the guys who cut 1.3 and lower off the line.

I've had both. My t6's were fun. Nothing wrong with them on a bolt on bike.

Was there a problem with 10mil and larger bikes last years ago? Was it a quality issue on the cranks or what? I do remember 4mil being big for a trail bike about 5 years ago. No one did a 10mil unless drag racing a certain glass around my area.

getting a 521 serval built. It's going to be for pump gas so no high compression stress on the bottom end. I dont see why it wouldnt live

Get tires too

Yall have some pics of some sand blasted cases in a complete bike? I think that's what i will do. I fear if i do black, it will be too much black on the bike.

sell truck out right to someone, use that money and more money to buy a good running bike.

I hope you have money aside just in case you get an air leak or something goes wrong and you need to rebuild the motor. If not, keep your pipes.

that 450's on pump or race gas?

Im my experience which is far less than most here, it's off the line the 4 strokes are strong in. Set up your bike to get off the line good and they wont be able to catch up. You can always throw a dune able over ride in her but as much as i love mine, it's not for everyone. but it will help a lot.

Find a good tuner(there's a couple good one's in Baton Rouge that tunes GM/Chevy. Ask them what they prefer. Then go get a dyno tune and hand held from the shop. You will gain more power, better drive ability and get more for your money with a proper dyno tune. I'm not sure which part of LA you are in. You may think it's too far for your to drive. But never ever be afraid to drive for a good tune. That's your motor and trans you talking about. I lost a motor and trans(motor wasnt tune related), it sucks. Also if you want to mess with your shift points that much, maybe a t56 swap is in your future.

Id like to remove the top two bars(one on each side) on top the 4(2 on each side) front motor mounts. But from years ago, i remember people saying that's only for drag bikes. Post #8 has them redone and reinforced. I'm looking for a clean frame. My reason is for cosmetics only and has nothing to do with weight. I'm going to be using the stock swing arm/carrier so weight isnt an issue obviously.

They run out of steam in 4th and 5th? I find they do with the mild drag 450's ive ran. OP if your bike is fun, id leave it alone. You add more power, different tires etc and you will probably do better. But what happens when they get faster or someone else is. That's how drag bikes form. You have a VERY clean bike. Id threw some at least some CPI's if not some shearers just because i liked how they work for open runs. I went from t6's to t5's to CPIs. It was crazy to see the top end difference with CPI.

Thanks, i will take a picture of my frame and circle what i think needs to be done and post it up. I will be running pods on some 39's. I forgot to mention that and no over flow bottle.

I have a spare frame and would like to clean any unused brackets off. The build will keep in frame pipes, head lights, relocated cdi(behind radiator), and front brakes. Nothing will be deleted. I will buy race cut stock front fenders and keep stock style back fenders. Back fenders will most likely be uncut. I need to go back into my old banshee pictures to see how it all looked before i hacked fenders away. All i know off hand is the stock mounts for the stock pipes. All i have is the frame. I should of figured out what needed to be done before tearing down the bike. If anyone has some pics of things that can be taken off, please post it up. Id like to start cleaning the frame next weekend before it goes to the powder coater.

No Look in the complete bike sale section on these forums and see what that money can buy.

I think ill just take my override out and run some 20's. Full Play bike ftw.

According to FAST's site the pro wedge 2s are discontinued. Fml this is bs. I hope I like the 4 sno. damnit again.

For the choke test, I just putt putt. I take off like normal then I let the bike idle while in first or barely hit the gas so it doesn't stall. Then I pull the choke a little and give it some gas. Thats how I fine tune off idle to about 1/4 throttle.

^ Due ONLY to more compression and timing?

I may look into it if its not that time consuming. Any links handy so I can read up?

The only thing that stops me from putting my bike on alky is purging with gas before you pick it up. No thanks.