RagunCajun

Long story short, it's been about 5-6 years since i did a frame up build. My bike's been down for nearly 2 years since the engine blew. In that time, i forgot a lot of things needed for a frame up build. Basically everything nut and bolt will need to be turned. This will be a thread i update with my build until complete. With our home almost done being built, it's time to get this done so i can get the bike from my folks' home and into my shed. This will be a play bike in open fields and long strait roads. Not much drag racing, hill shooting etc. It wont be ridden in the wet. No jumps. nothing engine nor suspension related can be bought used! Engine: Engine: It's just a mild 532 redline serval on pump gas. That's complete and here. exhaust is bought and here. custom big bore shearer carbs/billet bowls are bought and here. 39mm carbs (pwk's i believe). throttle cable's are bought and here. I have a brand new front sprocket ready to go on it. Ill be using my stock tank and a dual pingel valve. It's old but it should work. transmission: redline pro mod. That's here already. i took out my n-down 1-5 duneable. it was fun but isnt needed anymore. I will keep it in the shed just incase i want to split the cases and put it back one day. Suspension: front shocks: I want these for the front Fox Shocks Float X EVOL Front Shox rear shock: I need to find an equivalent to the front. I dont want a resi for front nor rear. front a-arms: I still have not decided on this. I need something low maintenance that will not squeak over time. i want +3+1. frame: i have a spare strait frame ill use. I will be removing unneeded tabs and will be referencing a thread i made earlier in the year for that. Then that and the swing arm will be brought to the powder coaters. Color combo will stay the same black and white theme like a 2001. The frame will be black though. I have a set of moose racing bearings for the front. It has two bearings and two seals. Can someone confirm that's all i need before I bring it to the machine shop to get the bearings pressed in/out? swing arm will remain stock until after bike is complete and i ride it for a little while. I already have a gforce axle in great shape. It will be powder coated stock silver or close to it. Wheels/tires: I will be using ambush tires and i'm not sure which wheels. I'm not sure which wheels i will need for this. I have no looked to see if there are different sizes of ambush tires yet, its so i am not sure which people use. Misc: grips: I can get that local. nothing fancy. levers:(already have ASV) thumb throttle will stay stock unless i pick up a honda or chariot. chain: I already have one. It's been soaking in kerosene. radiator: will be a cheap Chinese $100 unit. I read a lot of good things on here via search. hour meter: ill get a $30 unit like i have on my dirtbike. Has a built in tach also. plastics: going with stock except fronts will be race cut. ill be buying new. grille: buying a new stock grille. I dont care for my panty dropper grill anymore. brakes: pads and lines will need to be changed. Who sells stainless steel braided lines? I will buy rotors all around. That's 3 total. front bearings: where to get them and will regular hand tools be fine to address this. tap for the screw holes: The powder coating shop does use silicone plus but a few holes seems to get some powder on them. It's very hard to start a screw. I need to know which thread pitch taps i need that are most common the banshee frame.I will order the most common ones. I work at a machine shop so i can barrow some special size taps if needed. things like a flwheel pulleys, impact gun, carb sync tool etc i have already. I built a little 4mil yeas ago. swapped out the trans etc no problem. Any info will that will help me is appreciated. There really isnt a budget but i'm not going to buy stuff i dont need. Also i refuse to buy chrome bling bling stuff. The pipes are chromed by cpi and that's about it. Completion date will be when it's done. Work is very busy now and my house comes first.

A good running 4mil will be enough. ONLY if you have traction off the line. Otherwise, it better be a long race so you can catch up. Slap on some 4 snows in an open field and let her eat.

I ran a n-down 1-5 duneable(no 6th) for 3+ years from some guy's friend from here. I set my bike up geared to launch in 1st with pro wedge 2's. It took a lot of gearing and tires pressure adjustments to get it where i want it but it was worth it. Nearly all the locals used to launch in 2nd but i used 1st since my engine didnt have enough power usually to break the tires loose in 2nd and id bog. Also my bike made maybe only 60-65. It had trouble pulling 5th efficiently. Youll have to play with gearing and see what you like. Everyone is different. I feel the trans i have(since removed for a pro mod) gave me more tune ability since i had 5 gears to play with instead of 4. You can always sell it and get some money back. And lastly, dont cheap out. You can go broke trying to save a little money.

glock 27. Just my personal preference not to have any external safety. Id hate to panic and forget to take it off. I will say the g27 sucks to play around in. I prefer the lighter kick of the 26.

+3+1 non long travel but with aftermarket shocks. going to run some fox floats on them. havent ordered the shocks yet. I plan to order these http://atvgalaxy.com/atvs/fox-shocks-float-x-evol-front.html

so when does it get ported heads, cam, full exhaust and tune on drag radials?

id like a set of +3 +1

So it's still agreed upon that OEM is best?

Wow, i did not expect a 16t front sprocket! I guess i under estimated the engine. thanks. Ill have to get the dremel out on my case saver to fit it.

What are yall suggest for my 521 serval with ambush tires. That's the tires i will run front and back. i had in mind trying 15/41 to start. I need to order new sprockets regardless. I'm not knowledgeable with the off idle power of these big engines. With my old 4mil, i had to slip the clutch a bit more than i liked with 15/41 and pro wedge 2's. I weigh 165 with gear.

Is running 3hd/3regular springs really needed with that kind of power in a lock up? I thought if there's enough weight, then you can run 6 really lite springs.

Any chance yall will make +3+1?

awaiting dyno shootout on these even though it's probably made specific for only that combo only

my 521 serval did the same thing. If i remembering right, the ports or whatever needed to be opened up a little more to get rid of that which would cause it needing to be replated.....i think. As mentioned, i wouldnt feel it. I also wasnt after numbers, only after low-mid tq(play power delivery).

And i was talking stock to big bore 10. On that note, im not sure why anyone would need more than a 10mil serval. Maybe for the guys who ride in sand where the terrain takes up a lot of power or you are a heavy fellow. for my weight, i was recommend just the mil serval.

I had most of that. When i posted, i wasnt speaking just to the OP alone. Just in general to anyone thinking of going bigger. I didnt know how expensive or what it involved when i started. It add's up fast. Lots of people already have pipes, cool head, clutch, trans etc. for a 10mil i was recommended to get strait cut gears by my builder. That adds to the cost. Also i went with a super serval. So the additional cost of a head and pistons were present. I also didnt know that was needed before i did that. If i wouldnt of went big bore, ida kept my CPI's. Not everyone's goal is the same. I am also pretty sure i would of cheaped out on getting a stock basket and other not so quality parts. I cant express how glad i am that i did not cheap out. It's hard for some of us to learn to do it right. I am one of them.

For a smaller motor, i wouldnt of needed carbs, head, trans, clutch basket, case porting, trenching nor custom made pipes. I disagree. However you do have a good point.

Dont forget carbs, pro mod trans, clutch, porting, domes, cool head etc You dont cheap out a build like this. Might as well build the most efficient engine you can the first time. Add anohter 3-5k to that total. I cant give you a figure, i only did a 521. Didnt do my chassis yet. Oh, and i went over board with power. I shoulda did a 4mil with no porting. However, i didnt want to say i should of went bigger.

do a big 10mil serval. over 100hp on pump. Sure it's way more expensive but you dont want race fuel and you want big dyno numbers.

Who makes the radiator cap in post 5?

Put down Cosmopolitan and read on banshee hq then.

quote for truth. That will make or break any combo.

FAST is one sponsor that sells the sync tool. It's only about $50. You only need one. It's very easy to use. May way to see if he sells the TORS delete kit as well. Do it all at once.

first time i read about 3+2 rear wheels. Another thing to add on my list now.

I forgot what socket that big nut takes, maybe a 22mm or 1.125". That and a impact gun works. No holder needed.