RagunCajun

If you must mod the bike, I'll say do A-arms and suspension. Leave the engine alone and save for a cub and supporting mods.

If you are set on a cub, id just keep what you have running well. Then just save money a side for the complete cub set up. That way if family stuff comes up, you have a chunk of money just in case.

So hes ported more than just mine. Thats great news.

dyno numbers dont mean it's better. i had him photoshop the curves.

Id chose those over the ambush but id need someone with a 90-110hp engine to confirm they are worth a damn. Plus id still want to be able to slide the rear around.

Great info. Now if only you'd make some videos of you riding it around....

I plan to experiment with gearing. That's the only way i can see what i like. Took a while with my old 4mil but worth it. This will be the first time in years i have all 6 gears. I had a n-down 1-5 no 6th override for the last 6+ years. Plus i will give the pro wedge 2's a rest and try the 22" ambush. I predict they wont hook in the grass/dirt roads i ride on. I will try a 16t front and i guess maybe a 41t rear. My goal is mid range fun and not having to slip the hell out the clutch to take off normally. i weight about 170-175 with gear. And most importantly i dont know how much power off idle these things have. But like i said, only way for me to know if to swap sprockets. I'm not looking for WOT 6th gear pulls even though i have the room. Top speed is lame, i like acceleration and playing around.

My build had special arrangements concerning time agreed on by both parties. I was fine with the out come. And that's all I'll say as far as my time frame. I doubt redline to you 6-7 months.

It will be on a stock swing arm at first. I'm not sure how far I can stretch it to still cut up and do wheelies, sliding around and wheelies.

Of course I'll use it. It's what I wanted/ordered

Yes it still in the box. Pics don't do much. It's just a motor. There's no bling. You can just see its aftermarket cylinders with a anodized black head with no logo.

I think a 10mil super serval is 532. I'm not sure. Like I said, I don't keep up much with the scene. Life is busy. A quick Google search says if it's a 72 bore it's only a 521cc. My mistake.

The 14mil would of made too much power. Cameron said I'd need parental consent but my folks didn't want to sign the waiver. So I went with the weak 532. Just trying to stay with them big 3 raptor 700's around here.

I thought 10 was biggest with no epoxy etc. Guess i need to read more.

Fellow HQ member rjdgriff has a redline 10mil serval on pump and put hundred of hours on it. I dont see why the super shouldnt do the same although i personally would fear the piston skirt cracking. I actually should of went with a 4mil serval since 60-70hp would be more than enough for what i do. But like you said, why not go all the way. thank the lord the biggest you can go with stock cases is only a 10mil lol. I cant comment on supporting mods nor parts needed to do it right. I been out of the game way too long and for the price this cost, i didnt want to sort through the trolls here. So i called up a builder who i thought could do it best. Communication was great on his part. The build took a good while but that was fine with me and time frame was discussed and met before i gave him the go. For reasons posted(thank you tricked) and redlines' recommendation, i had the pipes sent strait to CPI for chrome. I was going to powder coat my jugs and pipes but I didnt want to keep heat in anything. I personally am not into the bling bling. I orignally planned to do the pipes and frame rust color powder with a clear clearcoat on it. Sleeper

Not sure on the charge. That was over a year ago. CPI does better chroming from what I understand.

Hughes, not sure why you want 110, but mine on pump gas made 109rwhp I believe. So with race fuel, you should have your peak number goal. Mine set up is toward playing around in open fields, not anything specific. Maybe after talking with him, you may be fine with a just a 10mil ported serval instead of a big bore. I can't recall if my big bore shearer I bought were custom or off the shelf. I do remember they sent them to cpi for Chrome. They came out very nice. I also had to upgrade a lot of other stuff to handle the power. I probably doubled my last power output.

I got redline 532 serval sitting in a box. 7500 and it's yours lol On a serious note, i havent even finished my build since the oil field is in the shitter. When i do, i really have will have no valuable insight to this engine. I havent ridden any high HP builds so i cant compare. I just told redline what i wanted out of my bike and i let him to my thing. I dont understand power curves etc with these bikes. i did make it clear i did not care about peak numbers which do tend to make some members go ape shit. Expect to spend a good chunk of money to do it right the first time. I had a budget of about $2500 when i started.

Not sure why you would, but if that's what i wanted, i would do just that. With the price some people spend on a bike build, a little extra is just a drop in the bucket. That's why. Carry on.

If they they perform the best for a certain persons needs/engine combo, then they would just get the expansion chambers and stingers then get some different silencers welded on.

I tried it on my little 4mil a few years ago on my only trip to dunes. They spin like hell off the line and around 4th they start working somewhat decent. I borrowed some massive haulers i think they were called and the thumb throttle became the wheelie button after

I think it gets a bit more expensive to go 10mil. I think it's an added cost for durability for a billet crank, basket etc. I'm scanned over the whole thread again. I must of missed if you had bigger carbs. I think 35's are the norm for a 10mil. But you can ask whoever ports the juggs what they need to feed them. Then there's pipes and perhaps a lockup clutch(with light spings if a light clutch is your thing). Also case trenching adds a little cost. I honestly forgot most of the stuff it took to build my 10mil super serval. But damn it was expensive to get done right the first time. Then like already said, for near 100hp, you will probably want better a-arms and suspension. elka stage 3's are 1200 regular price. my long travel arm were about $650. I forgot the brand. It adds up fast. Plan out each build completely then pick your poision. it's very easy to say "well, while it's down, i might as well buy this...." Also imo stay away from used stuff. You can go broke trying to save a few dollars.

had my yz250 stolen out my parents shed 3 months ago. hope you find your banshee man.

anyone have stage 3's on +3+1? i have a set which i think the vendor called it their long travel arms. Looks like due to price, i plan to get elkas over fox floats. I'm coming from stock suspension.

Does anyone have some links to help me with drilling and tapping for a grease zerk on the steering stem? Drill bit and tap size would help. I figure the local hardware store has the zerk. I want to save it for the near future when i do mine. If i remember right, i think there's a bushing and some people prefer to put a bearing. I can get someone to press a bearing in/out.