RagunCajun

Oh boy. I'm glad I read this thread. Ida assumed my carb floats weren't set right and had a constant drip or stream.

Every where I read people say Don't go more than that to trail ride and play around. So I will give it a shot. I shouldn't have to Rev it to hell to make power anyway.

I just ordered some parts for the build. New Chinese Radiator PRM front bumper PRM grab bar New chain Elka stage 3's Fireball racing +4 with carrier 39t rear sprocket

Can anyone confirm the honda will open 39's once modified? Otherwise im ordering a chariot racing one.

Have you felt 65ft lbs of tq on a banshee with a broad curve like a serval or any other power delivery? Just curious why that dyno number.

Id like to know how often Ryan can use 100% of that bikes power as it sits. Plus going from a broad power band to a DM sounds drastic to me. Driving an hour to pick fuel is the only down fall of any non pump gas fuel. I do not ride near enough to complain about the cost. Plus id of wanted more compression to better make use of the higher octane besides more timing. And that's more stress on the bottom end. Plus I'll never use near all of what I make on pump.

Alky sounds fun besides the purging and running gas through it. That's and availability stopped me. Plus meth attracts water too easy. I got a drum of it for my truck but it doesn't matter if that gets a little water in it.

It depends what else i need to finish the build. I have the money to finish it, just not sure on parts needed. shocks and swing arm are the only big ticket items i have. Although little things add up quick...

Oh ok. I think that's what i have. The pipes are custom big bore shearers too. Should pull nicely on top. If it doesnt feel like a banshee, ill get port work redone. I doubt ill be disappointed.

Just went get the bike from my parents house. It's on like Donkey Kong. I'ma have to drive up there to Kansas and play The Gap Band that little 10mils you have On a serious note, i thought about just throwing the motor in the rolling chassis how it sits now. But i dont think it's safe to have that power on stock suspension and a-arms thats been seeing in a shed.

Can you explain that in another way?

I went for a tractor, broad broad delivery. I'm not sure how it will feel on top end. I hope it doesnt feel too flat. It will just be a play around bike. Honestly, an as-cast 4mil serval on pump would of been all i needed power wise. Better to had too much than not enough i guess. Keep in mind, my timing etc was very conservative. I wanted to make a good bit of broad power without a lot of compression. I didnt care what the dyno said. I dont understand how curves transfer to seat of the pants any way.

Yes he did it all and yes on pump. Yours is ported by him?

Only other guy on here I know who had one, sold it. But there's some 10mil serval owners here who love their bikes. I would assume the smaller boost in power isn't night and day. But I don't know.

I will keep silencers. I can't not stand no silencers. Thanks. I deleted the Coolant bottle long time ago and I will run big k&n pods with my little 39 carbs.

Looks pretty average sitting in the big plastic container it was shipped in.

My mistake. Never owned a stock head. Ty for the info

Tq it back evenly criss crossing

I can look up bore sizes on their site but I think some don't list all sizes and strokes. Also from reading locos post, the DM's don't like gas due to small Coolant area or something like that. Things of that nature.

If someone was to list in order of all types of cp cylinder, benefits and cons of each. I may try to make an easy to read chart.

Can someone with photoshop or M$ paint take the picture from post # 9 and label each circled item. That way i do not have to assemble the bike to learn what's missing. It's been about nearly 2.5 years since i ridden it and since 09 since i did a frame up build. I am going to my parent this weekend and get the rolling chassis and other parts left there for it. I will post pictures of what i want to cut off mine before doing so i dont mess anything up. Also i can have someone gusset the frame if needed if yall think my bike needs it. Keep in mind, i will not be jumping it. I'm not sure if the HP my bike makes requires the frame to be strengthened. Id assume no. The bike will be sent to powder coat shortly after it's cleaned of unwanted mounts. If something comes up, ill spray paint the frame real quick so it doesnt rust until it gets to powder soon.

I never used loctite nor heard of it for the flywheel nut. Interesting. Id be scared it would not come loose. Even with a cheap impact gun, you do not need a clutch holder tool. An impact gun can take the nut off. And a penny between the gears on the clutch side will stop it from turning so you can TQ it down.

Better sell your front tires Griff. With those on the rear, the front will always be in the air

Lots of good advice here. Don't be afraid to put the build off for a while. I'm going over a year on mine. But I want to do it right the first time which is cheaper in the long run.

You can just have a supporting builder port your jugs and you can then buy the top end and supporting mods from them as well. That way you know it will work out best. They can also answer any questions for you if you arr clueless which it seems is the case. When I went 10mil, i stuck with one shop for the entire process. I'm still clueless but my tiny motor is a solid engine that I know will run hard and be reliable.