RagunCajun

I blew two sets within 30 seconds to 1 minute. I bought another set but it's staying in the box until i do a DC conversion. JL engineering sells one that is plug and play for $170.

I did not know that! I went with elka over fox only due to opinions on customer service opinions from forum members on both fox and elka. I actually had the vendor send my Elkas to me wrong. They send me fronts for non LT arms. Elka took care of me 100% free and was fast about it. The only way id go with fox if there was an independent shop/person to send the stuff to for repair/warranty. Keep in mind these are just my very low rider skill level opinions. I can not even out ride stock suspension.

Are you talking about 2GU-15328-00-00SPACER, DAMPER | (U49) as per RMATV.com's oem parts section under crank case? If so, i do have 4 total. I decided to put 4 from the start. Disregard the epoxy statement. I forgot if i expoy the screws in, then it will be hell to get the clutch cover insert off. Thanks but those arent quite what im looking for. I dont think i will put any rear decals on my rear fenders. However, having something like that which says banshee 521 would be different yet subtle. Also i just looked up 2006 banshee decals for the rear fender. They are no obsolete like the add says. One 06 model is around $30, the other is $160. So will wait on that. I will have to play with colors to see if i can find some that will work with m color scheme yet remain looking OEM.

Just went for a ride. The bike is much much more fun with the new stock length swing arm. It turns easier and hooks far better. The CST pulse are really putting in work now. I did notice the rear brakes are worse but I'd assume that's because there is more weight on the back so they have to work harder. The bike still stops well 80+. The bike was dripping trans fluid in back my truck. Come to find out the clutch cover bolts backed out. You have to grind the back off in order to get the slingshot to clear the stock cover. This motor sure does vibrate a hell of a lot more. I never had problems with that. But that's a simple fix. I may try some epoxy since blue lock tight doesn't do much. Over all I'd never recommend an extended swing for anyone who doesn't ride in sand and/or isn't a drag bike.

Little bit of an update before bed. I am finally able to do a few things to the bike with the new job. I'm back in my previous field. I took some weight out of the sling shot meanwhile going back to 6 stock springs. The clutch had 3hd/3regular springs for serval year. It shifts much better now. I had issues shifting at very high rpms with the serval even though it has a promod. I set the center adjuster for the clutch better. It was way off although there was no issues. It was years since i did it but it didnt take long to refigure out once the clutch cover was off. I installed my stock length round house style swing arm today. The install went very easy. I cleaned every seal, shaft, bolt etc back there while i had it apart. I regreased everything as well. I am surprised the carrier took as much grease as it did for only 14 hours on the bike. I only cut the chain once and it was perfect. I went for a quick spin down the street. It sure is a hand full. The front end shoots up when the power band comes on. I will have to rebleed my back brakes because i dont quite think they are where they should be. I may end up getting a shorter rear brake line. I ordered a 23" braided stainless line and it's too long. I will see what they do about that after i specifically told the guy via email it needs to be shorter than stock since it's round house which requires a 25". That isnt a big deal though. The rear caliper is stock but works fine. It has some Tusk pads with a JDS rotor. http://i.imgur.com/zfZYUmc.jpg http://i.imgur.com/qrF6Kdf.jpg Next on the list is new 2001 year model plastics(i sold the fullbore hood) with new OEM graphics(rear fender will have no decals). I am trying to get some obsolete decals remade. Finding the original 350 twin 6 speed is a chore. Then i will get the JL d/c conversion kit. I will sell my harness Kompulsive Concepts made me and have him do another. There's a few wiring changed i made so i ran it as clean as possible. At that time, i will be converting my bike to have brake lights. The bike was test fitted with a cheap ebay LED brake light a few weeksend ago and everything now bolts up after i modded the plate. I may do shorty ASV levers. The long levers i have are starting to bother me. There's anything i can think of that i want for the bike after those items. I'm not doing and chrome or polished stuff. I'm still no the hunt for some CSFX silencers. That's about it for now. edit* also want a Chariot thumb throttle. This modded stocker to open 39's sucks. But it works for now and im being a cheap ass until some other things are taken care of.

Yup that too. I couldn't remember which ends I had to buy.

I got mine from fireball racing. They are thicker.

Maybe a longer center bolt connecting to two hangers and shims would help for the different pipes out there. No pipes are perfect. Someone can easily buy that themselves for a couple dollars at the hardware store.

what's the limit on stroke for cheetahs? What's the limit on expoy on stock cases? noted. I appreciate it! noted.

That reminds me i need to replace my SS brake hardware with stronger hardware.

3/3 reserved*

2/3 reserved*

1/3 reserved*

This post will be edited as more information is obtained and/or corrections are needed. This is list of all banshee cylinders in production and obsolete(out of production). If you have anything to add, correct or share; post here or pm me. CP industries Inc: Cheetah Cub: Works with regular heads commonly found on stock bikes like Noss/pro design heads. Typically used for Drag/Dunes due to power coming on higher in rpm range. Uses stock reeds. Usually referred to as a Cub. Bore – 64mm to 68mm Stroke – 54mm to 68mm CC – 347cc to 494cc Serval Cub: Works with regular heads common on trail bikes like Noss/Pro Design heads. Typically used for trails, play bikes, dunes due to power coming on lower and smoother in the rpm range. Can be ported into drag cylinders since there is extra material. Uses stock reeds. Bore – 68mm Stroke – 54mm to 64mm CC – 392cc to 465cc Wampus Cub/Wampus Serval Cub: These are casted externally to be made to look like stock cylinders but they are still monoblock design. It's meant to be a more stealthy look. A knowledgeable person will not be fooled. Uses stock reeds. (The Wampus gets its name from the Cherokee Indian word meaning “Ghost Cat”). Bore – 64.5mm to 68mm Stroke – 54mm to 68mm CC – 358cc to 494cc Super Cub: Bigger bore version of Cheetah Cub. Requires a big bore head and case work. Uses stock reeds. Supers cubs have the option of larger flange exhaust. Large flange is 1.90” stock is like 1.77ish Bore – 72mm Stroke – 54mm to 68mm CC – 440cc to 554cc Super Serval: Bigger bore version of Serval Cub. Requires a big bore head and case work. Uses stock reeds. Supers servals have the option of larger flange exhaust. Large flange is 1.90” stock is like 1.77ish Bore – 72mm Stroke – 54mm to 68mm CC – 440cc to 554cc Super Wampus: Same concept as the Wampus Cub, but for the bigger bore Super Cub and Super Serval Cub. Large flange is 1.90” stock is like 1.77ish Bore: 72mm Stroke: 54mm to 68mm CC: 440cc to 554cc Cheetah:. The cylinders can have power valves. Optional power valves use exhaust pressure to open the the power valves. Typically used for Drag/Dunes. Uses Honda 250R reeds. Bore: 65mm to 74.5mm Stroke 54mm to ? CC: 358cc to ? Cheetah DM: Short for dominate male. Typically used for Drag racing. Usually referred to as a DM. Bore: 72mm/78mm Stroke: 58mm to 78mm CC: 472cc to 611cc Cheetah DMX: Usually used for drag racing/duning. Poor water jacket design. Tend to overheat unless on meth when duning. Usually referred to as a DMX. Bore: 84mm – 85mm Stroke: Cougar: Bore: 85mm Stroke: 76mm Sniper: Similar to the CP Industries Cougar. Exhaust Flange Varies. Will not accept OEM size Flange. Reed cage bolt pattern from a snow mobile. Bore: 85mm ? Stroke: 76mm ? Scimitar: Bore: 95mm Stroke: 76mm Caracal: Bore: 98mm Stroke: 76mm "129mm spread Billet cases (AKA Schimitar cases) are only available with "BIG BEARINGS" (72mm). We offer them in strokes from +20mm to +30mm. These cases were originally deighned for the Ski Doo MXZ 800 cylinders however over time CP Industries has produced a cylinder for these cases called a Schimitar with a massive 95mm bore taking this engine to a hole nother level." This chart applies to all Banshee cylinders(Not just CP Industries). Bore and stroke are in mm. Engine Size is in cc. Engine size (cc) = (Bore (mm)/20) * (Bore (mm)/20) * (Stroke (mm)/10) * pi * # of cylinders Vitos: Big Bore/392cc: Directly from Vito’s website: Stealth stock appearance sleeved and bore able -10 ports -- with triple exhaust -- up to 90hp at rear tire on race gas- cannot be used with stock heads unless they are custom machined for big bore or use big bore domes ordered separately Bore: 68mm Stroke: 54mm (stock) Athena: Big Bore/392cc: Nickel carbide coating. Needs a lot of work to run well and up to par with most people's expectations. Basically a worse version of Vito’s. Bore: 68mm Stroke: 54 (stock) China Ebay cylinder kits: Can be found for around $165-$250 on ebay. Comes from probably china. You get what you pay for. You can’t expect much for a complete top end(cylinders, gaskets, pistons etc all for that price). Typically seen on the Bansheehq Facebook group from people who don’t listen and/or research. Do not buy this. Common vendor: Mr. Sum Ting Wong. DASA: Info directly from DASA's website: Don't be fooled by the imitators. Dasa is the home of the ORIGINAL Superjet Big Bore Powervalve Cylinder. Dan Lamey has been developing and producing these cylinders for over 15 years. Dasa (Dan Lamey) has a reputation of being the leader in watercraft development. Dasa has helped to create numerous champions such as Nicolas Ruis, Eric Malone, Chris MacClugage, Alessander Lenzi, Tara Lahoe, Jeff Jacobs, Lee Stone, and many more. Dasa Big Bore Powervalve Cylinders are the only cylinders trusted by Factory Yamaha Racing. If Factory Yamaha can trust Dasa to put them on the top of the podium, so can you! Powervalve Cylinder 85mm Pistons Complete Power Valve Assembly Billet Head & Domes All Necessary Hardware, O-Rings, & Gaskets Crankcase Modifications Required Cylinder Porting Included 12mm Stroker Requires Billet Crankcase Driveline Performance: Assassin: Stock appearing cylinder. Nikasil coated. Designed to be used with +4mm long rod stroker crankshaft with 115mm rods. This cylinder kit has higher port timings for riders who are wanting more mid to top end power. The port specs on these cylinders are 196 exhaust and 124 transfer durations. The exhaust port is much larger then a stock cylinder so peak H.P. will be much higher. Bore: 68mm Stroke: 54mm to 64mm Assassin LP: Nikasil bore, triple exhaust ports, larger intake and transfer ports. This cylinder kit has lower port timings for riders who are wanting more mid and low range power bands. The port specs on these cylinders are 191 exhaust and 121.5 transfer durations. The exhaust port is much larger then a stock cylinder so peak H.P. will still be much higher even though the ports are lower durations. Bore: 68mm Stroke: 54mm to 64mm ESR(Eddie Sanders Racing): ESR basically sold pro x cylinders. This per ESR themselves when i emailed them for info. FMF: Powervalved. Mono block design. Bore – ? Stroke – ? CC – ? Twister: Small Block: These cylinders have triple ports and boost ports. Most would consider a dune port. They have plenty material to be tailored how you want. They have a much larger coolant capacity than competitors’ cylinders, and better coolant flow characteristics. They have changeable intake runners and exhaust flanges. You can run stock banshee reeds or YZ250 reeds, and small-bore or big-bore pipes. Equipped with power valves from a Ski-Doo Summit 800. As of December 2011, there have been 4 generations of small block twisters since it was released. They no longer make small block twister cylinders with power valves. Bore: 68mm to 78mm Stroke: 54mm to 64mm Big Block: Use cr125 reed blocks. Bore: ? Stroke: ? Trex: No info found Bore: ? Stroke: ? Stock Cylinders Made by Yamaha that come with the banshee Bore: 64mm Stroke: 54mm General Info Spread: Twins Stock – 102mm Cougar – 120mm Schimitar – 129mm Caracal – 150mm Triple 102mm spread 120mm spread 150mm spread Quad 120mm spread Stroker crank limit of stock cases are 10mil with no expoy. Larger can be done with expoy. For larger than 10mil granks, people usually use Mattoon billet cases. Available crank sizes Stock – 54mm 4mil – 58mm 5mil – 59mm 7mil – 61mm 10mil – 64mm 14mil – 68mm 16mil – 70mm 18mil – 72mm 20mil – 74mm Rod lengths Stock -110mm115mm 120mm 125mm 130mm 132mm 137.5mm Bearing OD Stock – 62mm Big – 72mm last edit 3-23-17 8:25am

Good point! I had most of my Phillips screws replaced a long time ago. I had to buy an impact driver to remove most.

I bought the alloy boltz kit. Worked great. Id prefer OEM hardware but it was far cheaper and came in an easy to buy package.

Any dyno sheets with a similar combo on the same fuel? I'd like to see the curve

Id like to see pictures of that. The white intrigues me.

I've got a round +6 turbo chassis. It's powder coated oil rubbed bronze. $300 and ill split shipping. Just throwing that out there in case a chrome arm doesnt pop up. Good luck.

That's exactly why i bought one. Cheaper and easier power.

I believe you. On that note, if you take a look at our bansheehq FB page, some banshee owners are just as bad. It's just like ford vs chevy. I will never stop. But i refuse to be a part of it. I dont think we mentioned banshees are junk. Just because we dont jump on your bandwagon doesnt mean we our bikes are junk.

I'm not sure. I just had to increase the throw to the point where the arm was through the side of the housing. I was told by a member when i was doing my build it would work. It was documented in my build thread. It has a hole on the side.

Well if it isnt too noticeable, no big deal. And yet i want to be cheap and get the chariot yet i am complaining it has slop. Cheap banshee owners ftl. Tried one. Wont open my 39's. Want to refund me the money i spent on one?

That freaking Sucks. For $140 it should be tighter.

I cant stand people who think one brand/bike is superior. It's not what you ride, it's that you ride and you arent a cocky douche canoe that thinks what you have is superior. It should all be good fun. Good luck with that.