Matt96shee

i mean compared to the four door f250/350 long bed trucks. my X had a 6 1/2" lift, i could feel a vibration in the driveshaft, granted it was at 75+mph but it was there. this was after i put in block to correct for the pinion angle. now, the same lift on my brothers longer f350 had a very very slight vibration until he dropped the carrier bearing down about 2.5". ultimately i was meaning that there's not a lot of things to adjust on an excursion to correct for the pinion angle except for blocks or shims in the springs...you still have a pretty steep angle at the output shaft on the trans so maybe that's what i felt in mine. it sounds like you have your chevy set up right....never had a chevy myself, i was only trying to speak from what i know. -edit- it's a long 4wd SUV but i'm 99% sure it's still on the 3/4 ton regular cab longbed frame which (to me) isn't too long in the truck world.

are you guys filing these by hand? could you maybe highlight your process? i ask because i'm heading to the shop to pic up my rings in a few minutes. thanks, matt

i've got a v10 excursion here. i've pulled as much as any diesel and it's nice and quiet. now, i'd take a diesel if i could afford one. i just took my 7" lift and 35's off mine. i want my wife to haul around the baby in it...it is a tank! and, the ride was starting to wear on me. that reminds me, drive the truck and listen for any noise/vibration from the driveshafts...i could feel my rear driveshaft vibrate on decel. an excursion is pretty short to get crazy on the lift the pinion angle can get bad real quick! yea, i'd check on the gears too....if he's been pulling that boat with 37's and stock gears it's not the easiest on the trans. for that tire size i'd think 4.88's would be good. i'd also be curious to know if he had some kind of programmer in it. i may be gunshy if it did/does....all that power is just too much fun to not dip into it all the time! other than that, it looks like a nice rig with lots of nice toys...it'll look real nice with a 30' toy box on the back too!!!! matt

did you see my PM?

hey man, do a search on RZ350 and go to the beginning of the threads (about 6-8 pages) and read up....there's a few threads with electrical diagrams. there aren't any "problems"...an RZ takes a few more electronic parts than a normal banshee is all. you can buy a harness on ebay and cut it down to what you need or use the diagrams i mentioned and do it your self. what you need: powervalve(pv) servo, pv controller, RZ cdi, RZ regulator, RZ stator, RZ flywheel. then you need to find a place to mount it all. i mounted the servo to the TORS box mount and made plate to mount everything else to up front. you'll also need some pipes to clear the power valves on the jugs and some banshee style flanges for you pipes to go to. an RZ uses bolt on pipes where the 'shee uses a slip on end. my pipes are PT high revs. i think rockets work and stock 'shee pipes work too. try to keep your electronics from the same year...an '84 cdi and '84 stator or '85 and '85. you can mix and match and there's a website that tells you how to do it but you are looking at a slightly bigger headache. google "rz350 electronics", the page title is ELECTRICS. you'll have the ability to run a battery with no mods to the stator, i chose a battery eliminator since i bought a complete harness with it already there. any questions just let me know. matt

holy moly they do! thanks for the heads up!

going on a Memorial Day weekend ride and a buddy is trying to get his 'racer together to go...right now it's STUPID loud.....anybody got a stock setup takin' up space in the garage? thanks, matt

price and location??? and pics?

i had to break the seal on mine by prying them apart...i think there was a couple flat spots in the back to do it. it's not as easy to get them apart as you would think.

yup...did the same with my RZ electronics. the bumper covers up the area fairly well and everything is almost below the radiator. perfect spot i think.

yea, definately no stock parts left on it but maybe the plastic.....it's kinda like a nascar car i guess....same body can be a dodge, chevy, or furd. my brother and i were trying to figure out what it was supposed to be. the pipe on it looked to be as big as a 5 gallon jug!

Anybody see the QUAD mag poster this month? There's a badass looking dune quad on the calendar....after drooling over the hot chick i got around to looking at the quad. Does anyone know what it is (or based on)? I think its a Quadzilla???? Thanks, Matt

i mounted everything in the very front.

hi cbn, i looked at that guy's setup and i'd like to go with it in the future OR the one from RDDreams. i figure i'll run the stock rz cdi for now though...i just wanna get this thing running!!

you wanna get rid of that 2into1 setup?

yep, that's a boxer...his name is Hemi. i have 2, the other is his sister named Bella. Best dogs ever! on the RZ, I'm using a battery eliminator too...i don't think you can just hook a batter up in its place can you? thinking about it though, the stator is set up for a battery, not like a banshee where you have to float the 3rd leg. guess i'll get a battery and try it out too.

i think he's wanting to know how to set the valves to their "home" position...which i'd like to know as well. sorry i can't help on the 4mm but i do have a question.....adding the spacer, along with the extra stroke, doesn't that mess up the port timings?

let's see....when i did mine i found that putting the clips back in was easier with needlenose pliars. make sure the open end is either up or down. if you've been practicing with the rings then you should know about the little mounting alignment posts in the ring grooves right? i tried to slide the piston in the jug then attach the piston to the rod but it seemed to be a real PITA so i put the piston on first, got a buddy, and we slid the jug down over the piston. it's pretty easy since there's a bevel on the bottom of the cylinder. i haven't heard anybody else say this, but on my cylinders the front stud (towards the radiator) on each of them was just maybe a mm or two longer than the rest of them. maybe the previous owner did a hillbilly rebuild at one time but he didn't notice either and they nuts could not be torqued down as they ran out of thread. i had to add a thicker washer on them to get a good torque. other than that, light coats of oil and the rest is cake. might be a good time to relocate the cdi up front if you want. matt

how much for: 1) complete front brake system 2) fenders and tank cover 3) nerf bars 4) flywheel cover thanks!

sweet, that makes me feel better. thanks!

yea, they were saying the sand would just chew up your axle bearings, chain, and bushings...and if you weren't careful (like you said) you could kill the motor. i ask because i'm looking at a job in boise and wanted to know what to expect in the dunes.

yea, or if he hadn't just registered yesterday! stupid scammers.

needs of the few out weighing the needs of the many....

Hey Guys, I've heard when you're riding dunes you're looking at rebuilding most of your bike every 3-4 rides...is this true? Maybe not the motor but all the suspension parts. Thanks, Matt

i could turn a gi-normous rant and rave on about ebay and paypal!!! it's a good place to make the most money on an item but you're definately right....they need to do more for the seller. i guess they figure the new "anonymous bidder" setup helps the seller enough!!!! your situation is exactly why i instantly pull all the money out of my account when someone pays. 2 feedback??? yea right, he knew what he was doing....file a claim, get the money, and keep the item.