fastrthnu

Ive about got my quad back together. but since Ive gotten the yfz, I havent had much desire to play with the banshee. I have it set up for a better than average woods and minor mx. If it doesnt sell, I may keep parts of it. Im thinking since I have a bike for the majority of my riding I might make an asphalt quad. Either out of my existing frame if I part out, or just starting over. I havent been on it in a looooong time. maybe Ill change my mind once I get back on. Id like to have just a faster than shit 1/8 mile rocket though too. Im a religious person and its agains my religeon to have a multi purpose quad either its all out or fuck it.

Maybe its just me, but if he has this badass bike that hasnt been beaten with top of the line this and that, 20k, I dont think what you are looking to get is going to do the trick. If it were me, trying to beat what Im imagining, it would be a 10mm+ supercub with some oof pipes and the whole nine yards..... if it is only on a +4 swinger though.... that aint that much of a bike.

that is an excellent theory.

yea, i thought the same, but as mentioned above, here rejected the offer for 73k? this is funny, I wonder what his listing fees will be? Could it be it cost that much for pt drag pipes, maybe Paul made his pipe in the DRAG version just for this quad. Not even chrome.

what^^ rim in front should be 10" , rear can be 9 or 10. 9 is more common for mx/woods/trail tires, and 10 is prob more common for paddles. I have blue labels on the fron of mine and have beaten th episs out of em and they have bent up. Id try red, but next Im goin with black itp baja bead lock wannabe`s. I have hypers on rear. the itp baja looks tough. std itp rims Ive had were weak too.

stupid.... http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/mcy/1162841278.html

I had tm 28`s on it before the 30mm vm I was running at 370. the 28`s where jetted 25/360 which was right on. that was with k&n in box open box. at 280 I dont think my quad would even run.

Ill give it a shot. thnx

I went there today to fill a can and they told me I cant because it has to go directly into the plane? fucking stupid bitch!

ok then.

that should be up to you. I like cut but not all the way cut.

shit, I just now seen this, hope all is ok and stays that way!

it happens. Im sure it will happen again. just an annoying and embarassing.

Yesterday I was out riding with a bunch of ppl on the yfz450 and part of the spot was road with a curve in it. Normally my tires where harder, but I let some air out last night to get more grip. It gave it to me. where I normally drifted around this corner, I went to the inside (in grass) and shot out wide and it went on to the side quick, I bailed of and the quad procedded to rolll over. I didnt have my gloves on and got TORE up. both my palms are missing, my left elow is busted, my right inside forearm is rashed all the way elbow to wrist, and the hole in my pants turned out to be a big gash in my knee. My left wrist feels sprained even now the next day I cant pick anything up with it. Musta been doin maybe 40mph. Ill never ride w/o gloves again. 1 headlight is busted off, bent fender bracket and screwed up plastic, bent steering stem and bars, and snapped key switch harness. Wrapped my hands up and still went riding for another 2 hours, but I dunno bout today.

if they have any "flatting to them anywhere, change em. if they seem round all the way they should be go to use again. most likely they will be good.

the scribe marks on the side prob represent port work. the carbs are sudco, I think a division of mikuni. You can measure the inside (side facing motor) convert to mm and find out what size they are. the head you have has domes you can change out to different sized to adjust compression. when you pul the carbs to measure see if the intake ports are worked, maybe take pics and someone on here with this info maybe able to give you a ball park. Get the psi with a compression tester as well.

he is just a lil punk kid. Im sure it didnt trade. Nobody is going to waste time of day to meet up with the lil queer. Im not a forum bully, I just seen a new asshole looking to use this site for a gain while being nasty to older existing members and posting false information about his quad. I dont think someone, if they where even going to consider that trade, should be trading for something falsly advertized. Im in a mood every now and then. Its a 402 engine with about $1500 into it. well, 2k if he is to stupid to work on it himself and had to take it to a mechanic. if it had traded, he wouldnt have come here to see if anyone was interested, and it wouldnt still be listed. instead he found that people are onto his bs.

yea Im sure you did find a trade. yea Im a little internet bully dork, its true id only talk shit on the internet, just ask anyone who knows me on here. Be my friend?

IDK what a neutral switch cover is.

Id also like to know why its false advertized as a 440? more like 402 with only a .040 bore. the stock stroke vs bore of a 400ex is 85mm x 70mm giving it the exact cc displacement of 397.3cc so a .040 (86mm)increase in bore would make it 402ccs right?!?!?! a 440 is .160 over stupid ass!!!!

for this comment and posting I deem you King assholeface shitdick III take your attitude and your turd fucking ex someplace else. you silly penis wrinkle. c12 why? 5k in what? I got my yfz450 for hundreds less than that with more done to it. and its newer. same pipes. my quad runs about 11.9:1 or so on 93. never been raced? yea what is there to race with it a 300ex? how much is a cam really 5k!?! for 5k Id have a long travel front with a stroker motor big bore kit, cdi, higher compression both cams, oil mods ported head, better carb, ect. maybe you mean you have 5 k into it including what you paid when you bought it. I dunno Im in that mood tonight. :shrug:

full flights are good for people who dont ride hard, just flat or light rec., if you dont ride like a fucking pansy, get lonestars. they are made of thin crap metal with mediocre welds and shock tabs. lonestar make a good product for just about anything and you can prob find a nice set used for cheaper than fuckflight "racing" ones .

do what?!? IDK what the fk pos plastic gas tank you have, but no gas on any molucular level passes through my tank. maybe if I left in in the freezer over night then put in on and rode in the middle of the day? If that where the case paint would peel right off too, and that hasnt been the case for me. I dont see a tank that secrets fuel being dot approved or any type of anything approved. wtf have the stickers on the side of my premix vp can come off after years? dont you think that a if a poly fuel cell secreted or condensded gas into the trunk of a race car it would be allowed down the track. I have marker ratios on my gas can from 2 years ago that wont rub off. tanks and cells are made out of poly material to prevent this from happening, thats why you arent supposed to use certain containers to store fuel in. even if the fuel evaporated over time it would still leave an oil residue, if I clean the side of my tank full of gas and dont get it dirty,. a year later there would be no residue on the outsid eof the tank. if your gas dissapears over time it is from heating and cooling of gases escaping from the vent tube over time. if you notice when you leave a can outside in the heat closed tight it blows up then put it in the shade and it shrinks, or when blown up you open it and preasure releases, that is from heat expanding molecules and cold shrinking them, and through the cap or vent is the only escape because the outside is fkn dry!

wipe it clean with engine degreaser (gunk) then once most of the oil residue is off even though you may think it already is, rub it again really well with laq thinner and a blue shop paper towel, then again with rubbing alcohol right before the sticker goes on. then use a plasitc puddy knife and press out any bubble and really get it on there. If it comes off after that your getting some really shitty decals.

yes, at actual races sometimes there are restrictions on front end width, but open practice is pretty much outlaw. suspension is very important. might even look into long travel. on the rear a g force axle is a cheap mod to have not mentioned. having torque out of corners is always good, so a 4-7mm stoker helps higher compression timing advance +4-7 deg boyeseen 2 stage carbon fibers or vf2`s are good without porting Id go with PT mids with pv and porting pro circs, dmc or equivelent -2 swinger bead lock rims, hypers if you can afford. esp on rear. low raduis tires ~18 on rear 20 up front mxr6 in hard / meduim, gncc in med / loose. steering stablizer or flex bars 28-30mm carbs. dep on porting. a smaller carb will make better low-mid velocity. pods with outers. open box w k&n if mud or water is involved a good clutch actuation system unless you like arm pump. if you have performance clutch springs try and stager hiperf with stock. GOOD PRO PEG NERFS!!!!! front fenders cut slotted/drilled rear rotors help in mud/water braking skateboard grip tape on throttle tether of course 13t drive gear if your really into it a 250r geometry frame if your any more serious than that get a 450 lots of racing decals billet impeller and engine ice,... no air moves through a radiator full of others roosted mud and not alot of speed on a track. That all I can think of for now?