fastrthnu

hmmm

thats weird. I havent tightened mine once since putting it on.

k, Im a cheap ass, diy`r. I was thinkin to myself,,..."self why cant I make my own fat ass reed spacers?" So I thought of a few materials to use. I decided to go with bondo. I made a form out of 3/4 wood, the thickness I wanted my spacers,. traced the reed cage on it and cut it out. I cut out a center section to put in the middle to so I didnt have to remove so much material from the center. Slapped some mud in the hole and let it set for like 1/2 hour. Hammered it out, belt saned it perfect flat to .002" tollerance all the way around. Whatever its bondo it will form to square. dremeled out the center rough, then sanded it square. marked my holes out. 4th hole fucking cracked it!!!!!!!!! was perfect. spent like 1 1/2 on this pos. so I dont know weither I should try again maybe with more hardner or try something else. I was expecting to have a pair for under $10 3/4" thick, if I use somethig else, Im wasting more time and money. I had thought about using wood too, then coating it with a fiberglass resin or something. Any ideas? A suggestion of why dont you just buy some will earn you a kick in the gnads, as well as telling me I didnt spell opinions correctly. STD reed spacers are not as thick as I want.

rim screws :thumbsup:

yes you have to have a tether and nerfs. I would recommend you ride with something other than a stock suspension. takes quite a bit to make a banshee track friendly. ive done it though on nothing more than +2 a arms. 3 - 2 1/2 min laps, 3 heats.

re re retard. I havent seen these radical things posted yet!!! I wish I had an r1 so I could buy 4!!! If your that dumb to buy those, you deserve to have them. but the upshot is, at least they look gay!

yo, Im going to be the only dude up there in wearing lance armstrong shorts or somethin. fuck that spedo thong shit.

Ive never needed a bore size. If you went to a powersports shop, most likely they are a fucktard. Unless they want to know it you have a big bore/cub cyl?

no

http://sarasota.craigslist.org/mcy/1090186023.html wonder if I should get it.

I got a quote to have sleeves put in my ported cyls for $800 from TDR. Another option that may be benifit you if you do go the sleeve route, put big bore sleeves in.

Stock coils are fine, and cheap. just try and find a newer one if you can help it. except one I got from minkia one time one of the plug wires fell right of the coil out of the packing box, big suprize! Ill NEVER buy from that asspipe again

some advice. If your motor is out of the frame and apart anyways. What you should be looking at is port, stroke, and compression. Mainly port and stroke. All other cheap no so big power adders can be done any time with the machine together with minimal work. 2nd and prob more important, if your cylinders are on 1/10 bore already,... thats about it. So you may want to get some that arent already maxed out to port, even try to find a stock bore that will last you a long time. No sence in paying hundreds more on parts your going to end up tossing, and sleeves arent a cheaper alternative. If I was me, and you are you ,....you should sell those with the new machining, and buy some jugs with meat and maybe already ported. If your going to put all taller stroke, get the ports matching. Everything else can be done anytime with the motor together in the bike. Next would be compression and domes to match your setup, then all the other carbs, adjustable timing yadda that is just pull off put on.

pfff, Id just get on and pretend Im trying. :cool:

yea, thats what I was thinkin. I got one too.

Im looking into moving to S. California instead of back to Ft. Lauderdale/ Miami. Initially near Beaumont off I-10 not to far Sounth of San Bernardino. Most important how is the riding and work there. The economy in FL sucks. Where I am now is #1 in unemplyment in FL. Id like to be near alot of riding area and maybe a drag track. I will be staying with someone I know there if I go, but may wander away from the area but stay near, maybe more sw closer to the coast once I get work and a place. Any feedback on the area would be great.

Here is a link to a choke kit for these. I can get you parts #`s too. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Genuine-Mik...sQ5fAccessories these use the same size hex main and pilot jets as stock carbs, but you will prob need la arger number one than you have.

as mentioned above, check your coil to flywheel gap as well.

just picked up some 34mm carbs, have no use for these. they are mikuni vm 30mm roundslide. only thing that stinks about these is they have no choke, but a kit can be intsalled, they make one for it. they work great though. priced cheap to sell $45 shipped. as pictured below, they will go into a stock boot if you cram it in...

Someone just listed a pair of Mikuni 34mm flatslide carbs buy in now for $80. so what you have done. HELL YEA I bought em!!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...T&viewitem=

nm I found the calc its 12.3:1 so I guess VP red 100-105. That sucks.

something like this....... http://www.type2.com/library/engineg/comrat.htm

interchangable domes for variable compression, slightly cooler temp, look alot better.

yea, I found one of those, but thing is dont know my chamber volume and my crank is +4 so my piston at tdc is higher than the deck. Somewhere there was a relative calculator that would tell you about what your cr was with your psi.

Used to be able to find one, Im possibly retarded maybe, I cant find one. Sea level I need to figure out what 182psi is converted to CR so I can figure out what octain to use. And Im not even sure that is my reading. That is on a new top, 12 kicks with no pipes and just reeds on. Prob like 11:1? I wanted to keep t pump gas but fk it. Ill end up prob running 98-100. :geek: