fastrthnu

25/280 would be a good starting point. what kind of filter(s) you use? plus once you reach colder weather, maybe a 27.5 pilot instead of 25. If you use pod filters, prob slightly larger main too.

^^^^^agreed^^^^^

what state is it in for start?

90-95

I can get you that pic in a few days. I have to take one off to rehone since my douche bag machiine work guy didnt clearance my powervalve and fuct my rings and piston up. maybe tomorrow or tuesday.

Use that gel stuff I forget what its called, some kind airplane grade stripper. they have it at ace. if that doesnt work try using laq. thinner. I know some paints are really hard to get off, like on a clutch cover, I had to blast most of it off.

thanks mang.

I have a passion 12port +4mm and it hauls ass. no complaints with power anywhere. its an aggressive trail/mx port.

Im having a brain fart,.. is there any way for coolant to get into a cylinder by other means than a head leak? My right cyl is filling with coolant, and cutting it out, and seems right away after heating up maybe 1 min of runnimg, my overflow starts spraying. I have no overflow hose on my radiator. I figure if a pump seal went bad, it just end up in the oil.

wow, Im suprized he is aware of all that, but I guess he didnt know thats also one of the years they have the factory turbo option in the intake runners. thats why its faster. somebody should let him know so he`ll edit his post and make some money.

:yelrotflmao: the second one was fucking funny!!!

what an asshole!!! hahah get it. sorry had to......

Oh, I got another good one Ok,... why did banshee terror cross the road? to get to the shut the fuck up on the other side.

yea, check the pick up gap, and test the coil.

if it has run fine before with the jetting you are setup with and in the same temp range,. and it runs fine warm, but not cold, its most likely a compression issue. have you done anything to it since its been becomming a problem? A loose top end has a lot of leak/blow by losing compression. Once the motor warms up, the metal expands giving you a slightly tighter seal.

get some fine sand blast material and a nozzle for a preasure washer if you have. Ive done that and it worked great. If you want to just clean them, use engine gunk. a quick way to polish them if you want is to since they are already somewhat smooth, you can get some flap wheels on a die grinder and smaller one for a dremel in tight spots then buff it with a wheel. I have never gone nuts on cases though since I cant really see them upon assembly, and 2 I dont give a fuck what it looks like as long as it runs, handles, and whoops everyone ass!

yea, Id talk him down,... you dont know what your going to run into when it comes to fixing it. try sucking more info out of him. like for 1, if the bores still have life in them or on max bore. If its seized, needs a crank ect ect. Get more close up pictures. Id offer him 500, 600 tops. then worse case you can part it out and make a dime if its not worth fixin. Then you might make enough to get a better one running.

In my storage unit, I used to have (moved quads to alarmed house) I stuck 3/4" sleeve anchors with eye bolts into the ground and chained them down to it, and once before I used a lawnmower battery, and put hid it under with an open circuit, aligator clip with a gentle bite to ground the circuit to keep it open. So once the quad was pulled away and the clip pulled off, the 160db airhorn blew off and couldnt be shut up without cutting a cable or key in the switch all the way on the other side of the garage up and out of the way or easy reach to shut it up. you use the frame as a conductor between the 2 clips, once the ground is broken it drops the magnet in the contactor and closes the circuit blasting the alarm. was a lil rig I made. Cheap and very effective. you could do it less complicated with a tether switch, sept it would be the opposite. once the cord is pulled it makes ground and would turn your motor off or finish your circuit to the batter and blast that horn. But you have to be witty about it so the average douche couldnt figure out how to silence it quickly. Just some homemade ideas.

dave noss is great. asr have ok but not great products, and their customer service blows. they pretend to be ok on the phone, but they are shit dicks.

you`ve established you dont have the slightest fucking clue what your talking about.

Ok, I went over it all, got it to idle right and all. BUT only one side is firing. My right pipe was spiting out some fluid, so I thought maybe I blew the head gasket. It was gas. I pulled the pipe off and noticed the fucking assholes at the cycle shop didnt clearance my powervalve shaft and my cylinder wall is scratched up on the intake side and the exaust side of my piston in scraped up BAD! Right down the middle. So I guess all my compression is gone on that side. Ill have to pick up my tester tomorrow and see how many psi its making. This is a brand new top end too! I can see that it looks like when the rings hit the pv shaft, it was prob over compressing them up against the other side. It was making 182psi when I assembled the motor prior to running it. And when I ran it to break in it was fine, but after all this, it seems to have worn that side out. :mad: My pipe had like almost a cup of fuel sitting in it when I dumped it out. I dried it all out and re ran it, it fired for maybe 20 seconds then flooded out again. The other side runs perfect. Its strong enough to ride on 1 cyl, cant imagine how hard it would run on both. Im calling the shop tomorrow and demanding they fix it all themselves. There is another bunch of time and money wasted, along with a wasted bore on my nice cyls.

Ok, I got my quad all together. I took it out to the woods today and for some reason when I started it, it revs up really high. when I go to kill it, it still runs and revs high with it not in run. Ive tried a bunch of shit and cant figure it out. when I first kicked it over to run it, it seemed fine, not its like the slides sre stuck open, but not. I turned the idle screws all the way out to bottom out the slides, adjusted the cables all the way in, I dont get it. I have 34mm mikuni flatslides on it that are new to the bike, so maybe its somethign with that? Is this common with an air leak or something? when it revs really high, sometimes if I blip the throttle it will calm down and finally die, and sometimes not, but the slides arent sticking.

put a small magnet on a string and drop it down right after it. if you havent tried turning the crank o r anything, you should get it 1st try with that.

everytime i see a wesw post I end up stopping everything, snapping out of it after a few minutes of hypnotic stare. then remember I was going to say something. foam prob flos more air= bigger jets, slightly less jetting vacuum effect, the k&n pods will be slight more restrictive, less air and more "choke" pulling in more fuel, so with that swap most likely jets will need to drop a tad.

timing advance is a great modification for any type of riding and prob the best bang for the buck. I ride woods and mx and will be going to +7 once I get another (prob 6th one) timing plate.