fastrthnu

what about ocala national forest? http://www.floridaatv.com/index.php?option...0&Itemid=40 I havent been here yet, but wanna check it out.

do what?

yea,. thats what I hear. I have a friend that lives right out near there toward the end of santa barbera. Its all built up pretty much now. Really shitty. Used to be alot of drag racing out there too. I grew up out there. I used to live on del prado n kismet even before del prado went past kismet into 41. We go way down burnt store now more north. You used to be able to ride from gator slew all the way to punta gorda out there. we go Mostly out off w. terry in bonita though. cops dont really bother anyone out there for now. And the area out there is HUGE!! Gets me excited thinkin of all the good times out there in the cape. 14 years there I think. Oh dude has an mx track set up in his back yard kinda the kids next door built, if you got any bikes, you should check it out one day. Hes right on the edge of that hood where all those big houses have been out there for years. You go down where that industrial park is toward the "main" entrance till you get to the end, but instead of the right left in the corner, you make a left and hes down like a 1/4 mile on the right. sorry bout the hyjack btw

dont forget pods

aye I used to llive in fort myers/cape coral. I still ride out in the yukapan and bonita springs alot.

205!! holy shhhhh

you can, but I always ran 93 anyways stock.

I dont think your going to feel any difference. Back preasure plays a big role in 2 strokes,. but m pretty sure that the pipe itself is designed to take care of that. I dont think silencers do very much, other than silence and tone, even though the makers might claim otherwise.

25/300 Do a plug chop right away. might need to move up or down a main.

DOHT! ::

F that, you can shift just as fast. Practice shifting! Practice shifting so fast that you dont need to let off the throttle. With the clutch of course.

I was always told that 150-155 was the borderline. So thats cutting it close.

the last time I polished,. I used a 220 wheel to smooth all the casting flash and pores, rough edges,. then I hand sanded it with 320, then 400, then poilished. It takes awhile though.

how would that work? would you all talk at once or do you talk to type? do you find one person to talk too? Mine would look like this..... Today I was working on my,... damn cat! get the hell out of there,....aww crap it typed that,.... stop it stop it....... wammmm wammmm wammmm god dammit!!! delete,..... delete nooo,.... delete the words stupid ass thing!!!! Alright Im going to start over. Hey, today I was working on my banshee and uhh uhh uhh "noises of internet porn from the other window" I seen oil leaking from the Oh shit,...... spilled pepsi all over my keyborard!!! look at my pants!!!! ah shit it typEd that stop it,..... STOP IT!!! SON OF A.

Its fine the way it is,.... dont like it dont watch it! Id rather be choked out than knocked the F out!

you said you where shocked? about what?

Mines still 350 and after porting, itll need a longer swinger. stock suspension sucks. So.......350

21x7x10 are what I use. Always bandits. I change the rears. but always bandits in front. They grip it all, and cleanout really well.

Banshee Idle Kit Installation Instructions Included in this package are the following parts: 1- Size #6 Drill Bit 1- 6mm X .75 Tap 2- Brass Idle Screws 2- Idle Screw lock nuts 4- Pages of Installation Instructions including the Limitations of Liability Notice Please find and identify all these parts before continuing this installation. Do not proceed without the proper parts. We certify that all parts listed above are included in this package. If for some reason you find something missing you must file a claim with the freight carrier (usually UPS). Please refer to our Limits of Liability on the last page of these instructions for more information. Procedure: Locate the idle screw bosses on the outside of the carbs. After you have identified these bosses you can remove the carburetors completely from the machine. You can just unscrew the carb tops and pull out the slide assy. complete and leave them on the bike. Then, you must disassemble the carb bodies completely. The left carb has its boss on the left side and the right one on its right. If you look on the right side of the left carb and the left side of the right carb, there will appear to be a drilled and tapped hole that looks very much like an idle screw hole. I'm not sure what these holes are for, but rest assured, these are NOT the Idle screw holes. If you are not sure which hole is which, call us and we will help explain it. The ones you want are not threaded. Be Careful with this next step! Using a drill press or very steady hand drill with the supplied #6 drill bit, finish drilling through the idle screw passages into the throttle bore but NOT through the other side of the throttle bore. There is perhaps only a quarter of an inch of thickness to drill through. Next is the only modestly difficult part, but it is necessary, and must be done carefully and correctly. The Idle screw boss casting comes finished off at an angle. This must be filed, milled or ground flat (perpendicular to the idle screw hole) so that the Idle screw lock-nut will have a flat surface to lock against to secure the Idle screws. On some carbs, you might have to machine it a little shorter as well. The finished measurement is about 3/4 of an inch (or 20 mm) from the outside of the carb to the lock nut surface. Now that you have finished these steps, you can screw the supplied (6mm X .75) tap through the idle screw hole fully. Be sure to use a good oil or taping fluid specifically for aluminum for this job. This way you will get a good clean thread. We have heard horror stories of people who do this without oil, and break off the tap in the carb. Then you either buy a new carb, or E.D.M. the tap out, either option is expensive. Now, and most important is to de-bur the hole. You can use a sharp knife on the inside hole and a chamfer tool on the outside of the hole to put a nice 45ochamfer and remove any remaining filings from the drilling or tapping process. You must also use a little fine (like 400 or 600 grit) sandpaper inside the throttle bore to smooth the edge of your new hole so that there will not be any burrs to stick the throttle slide. Please test-fit the slide in the bore of the carb before final assembly to insure it slides freely. Stuck throttles while riding are no joke. You must make certain of this point! Now please clean thoroughly the entire carb of all chips and dirt. Only after everything is perfectly clean and all chips are gone, (use compressed air to thoroughly blow out any and all chips & dirt) can you screw the idle screws into the carbs, (don't forget to put the lock nut on first) and re-assemble the complete carb paying particular attention to set the float level at 21mm. With the Idle screws backed out a little, so they don't touch the slides, install the carbs on the bike. Be sure to install the slides properly. Specifically, with the "cut-away" facing the rear of the bike, and the big 45 o notch on the bottom facing the Idle screw. This is the ramp that the idle screws use to hold the slides in the idle position. Please confirm that the slides do in fact "bottom out" in the throttle bore, and that they lift with the turning of the throttle, at precisely the same time. (synchronized) Now, start the bike and warm it up thoroughly. While holding the throttle at the desired idle level, screw in the Idle screws until they just start to touch the slides and raise the RPM, then back off about 1/4 turn, and secure the lock nut. do the same to the other side and you're done! The Idle rpm should be around 1400 rpm, or as low an rpm that is stable when the engine is warm Finial Check: Turn the handle bars from side to side to the full lock position to insure the RPM does not fluctuate. If it does, re-route the throttle cable so it doesn't hang up on anything. Double check that the idle screw lock nuts are tight. Replace all the airbox equipment and check for air leaks and proper fit on all components. Double check the clamp on the carb manifolds for tight.

I didnt know they changed the location,. but if its near lakeland or closer to me Im still going. If its in Ocala or some shit way up there,. I might not go.

yep.

:yelrotflmao:

whats the big deal. not everyone knows it was a hoax. just search for that shit first.

If your running a boost bottle,. you better run 110. j/k,... I always used 93,. but if you have stock compression,. any one will suffice.

Use photobucket :thumbsup: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18534