Sonofabitch!!! I just went and got a stator, flywheel, and plate from RS a couple months ago! Everything worked fine so far, but damn,..... now Im concerned. Going to be 10 miles out in the woods one day then poof,... stopped working!? :mad:
clutch slippage feels like when you used to pull the wheels of the ground every gear and then it stops. still revs hard and it looks like gray in your tranny oil. feels like your a gear lower than you are I guess.
I have an old ass 84 suzuki 230 with no suspension. it actually hauls ass for its age, but no one will ride it lol. Im going to have to do something with it cuz it wont sell or even give away hahahah.
ground them. you can test this by splicing all yellows (3) together. blacks must be grounded. not the blacks that plug into the switch. those are for your kill. Just the ones out of the lights.
yep, if you just doing front lights high, all you have to do is yellow from stator (that normally connects to the yellow/red on switch) on one side o f switch and yellow from lights to the other side. Ground always stays grounded only.
I havent gotten it going yet, but by next weekend Ill have it done. I just dont know if Ill be able to drive all the way up there yet, or where anyone is even going.
I know. Everyone just assumes they are going to ride my shit. I took it out one night up n down the street adjusting my pilots and this guy came out from somewhere and was like ahhnice next time you take it out Ill have to give it a rip..... pffffff you can give a go fuck yourself dude.
they have a black 06 here to I want to get. would be nice to have a stocker kickn around for when the performer is down. My friends will want to ride it though :mad:
the black shouldnt go to the switch, the green should be your lows so cap that, the blue is for the tail light, cap or not if in use. The yellow/red is common power in, so you switch for only high should be yellow (from stator) or yellow/red from switch side to yellow on the light wire. if your not using the existing switch wires you just open/close the yellow from lights to yellow from the stator/regulator. If your using you tail light youll need a 2 pole switch or tie on your blue to tail lights in parallel with the switched side of your front lights.
yeah, you have to do that ^ or like i did was cut out the top of the lid and pop riveted screen on to keep out larger chunks of mud n sand. with the lid frame it still holds the filter on but flows much better. drop your clips a notch and do a plug chop after.
whats up with these Im seein popin up lately. Their sandgear paddle tires look gnarly. Id like to try some. anyone use this brand yet? I have no Idea what the quality is like.
ah yeah man for sure,. they`ll twist that shit all up and try to make everyones quad out to be bombs or something. I wouldnt tell em anything. there was a fire out here off I75 in the everglades and they tried blaming it on quads, I was like OH NO! There goes more riding spots. It was out where its nothing but water and only air boats can go (saw grass on top of water) stupid!
your mix doesnt matter much. and a puddle of fuel doesnt explode, a puddle of fuel will stay on fire though. fuel has to be misted or vapor to explode.
with jetsrus they use mikuni main so they work with your stock needle and many others. Some pipes work much better with a smoother taper needle in the mids. So if you order from them, you wont need to change your needle, but contact the manu or dealer to find out if a dynojet needle or whatever might work better. Or maybe someone on here with cpi`s will tell you what they run. But to answer your question, yes you can just buy the mains from them.
Stator resistance:
Ignition coil should be 13.7-20.5 Ohms (red to green wire)
Pickup coil should be 94-140 Ohms (white/red to white/green wire)
Lighting coil should be 0.26-0.38 Ohms (black to yellow wire)
Coil resistance:
Primary coil should be 0.28-0.38 Ohms
Secondary coil should be 4,700-7,100 Ohms
Pickup coil gap: 0.015"-0.020"
Spark plug: NGK BR8ES
Park plug gap: 0.7-0.8mm (0.028-0.032")