Aussie Quad Racer

standard center to center 110mm long rod 115mm

Your clutch basket may be worn and not allowing the plates to release properly

I know how to do it. I was asking the question to the topic poster

to give you some kind of idea. i run 460mains in standard carbs with mods as follow unifilter clampons. dyna jet needles. ported reed cages carbon tech reeds ported intakes and transfers(exhaust port and transfer timing are stock) .040 oversized wisecos .020 shaved off head. pc pipes and silencers.

if you do not know how to rejet a carb then how on earth do you know its lean???

you cannot check out a 2nd hand crank properly without taking the outer webs off so you can inspect the pin the big end runs on. A noisy bearing means its sure to fail.

to the original post i would say 50-55 from my experiance. 97redshee. was it 5th gear that the power run was done in?

the fact that both are high and both the same, i would not be concerned.

you need to split the cases and there is a groove cut into the cases where it sits.

what size fuse?

Yes, use one with a flexible hose.

is it running on both cylinders?

all depends on your launch and landing ramps. on stock suspension and axle and a-arms, i bent the axle doing jumps in 4th gear.

if the fuel is coming out the overflow then the bowls are full(over full) The only thing from there is the jets. See if they are blocked. Has the bike been sitting?

how do you know this???

on the front or rear? they are different stud pattern

you droping into 1st at idle? i is most likely that your clutch drags slightly and the primary shaft in the box is rotating when you drop it into gear. Nothing to worry about.

You should not ovwer tighten bolts on anything full stop. Like meat stated i only torque the head on and thats it. Everything else is done by feel but i do work on cars for a living so you get a feel for it.

1. there is supposed to be a half moon cut into your shift shaft. It is so the bolt will go through without fouling. 2. Is the spline worn off the shift shaft or the shifter? Make sure you know which is worn. 3. To remove the shift shaft(if nessacary) Drain oil, Remove clutch cover, Remove clutch and basket, remove shifter(if you havent done so already), pull the shift shaft right outa there.

You all seam to be missing the point. The bike does not need a battery to start up so why have 1? When you turn your bike off you dont want anything running. Using a cap instead of a battery will supply a smooth and consistant voltage. The reg/rec/cap that i used came off a 12v xr250 which has all the indicators, brake, stop, headlight and other elec gear and it works fine on the xr250 and i know for a fact that it works well on my bike for running a fuel pump. At idle it drops down to 10.5 volts but you dont need full fuel pressure at idle and nor do you need full light output at idle because your obviously not moving if your idleing. Bring the revs up to about 2-3 thousand and your at full voltage of 14.3v all the way to peak rpm.

a properly tuned bike with a good engine should pull choke out half and 1 kick. At no point should you touch the throttle i suggest you may have your float bowls switched causing the choke to not work.

a cap is not required when using a battery but why go to the cost and expense of putting a battery in the bike when a small cap(about the size of a photo film container) will do the job of a battery

so your bike is jetted correctly for the elevation you are at now?

do you need to have a battery to get it registered? I needed dc for my fuel pump and i used a regulator/rectifier with battery eliminator from an XR250 When you convert it to dc you will need some sort of battery or battery eliminator to keep the voltage consant. Note - a battery eliminator is nothing flash, is just a capacitor.

it should be at the end of the dipstick where the pattern stops. and this should be checked with the stick stitting ontop of the thread(not screwed in)