kubiac3

I agree a neck shot isnt a "good" shot, but the land I hunt has too many rivers running through it and swamps. I would rather take a unsportsman shot then end up loosing the blood trail and the deer after they run through a river or swamp.

The gear saver is made by Belray im pretty sure. Its in a white bottle. You can get it at any quad shop normally. Or I know www.magicracing.com sells it.

Use to ran gear saver and loved it. I tried something "new" this time, amsoil 4 stroke 0w40 weight which is wet clutch compatiable. I hate it. Dont try it you will regret spending the extra bucks on amsoil in this case.

Hahahah, That made my day. Godbless and thank you for your "hunting".

Bow hunting is def far better then rifle here in lower michigan, you basically see more because everybody and there cousin isnt out shooting at everything that moves. In the Upper penninsula of michigan its no different, there is maybe 10 people on a 1mile square of land. As for hunting not taking skill I think it depends on the method you use. If you hunt in a well populated area where theres a wall-mart and you go a week before, put up your blind, put out a ton of bait and then go out on opening day with a cannon its really not much skill, but its still awesome. I personally like stalking and tracking and bringing the deer to me instead of waiting for them to come to me. I really enjoy hunting the upper penninsula of michigan. Its a 12 mile ride back in the woods on a decent road with the 4x4 quads. Then another 17 miles back down the sickest trails ever. Alot of areas you are standing on the seat and the mud and water is right up to the air intake on the quads. You are basically in the wilderness. There is bear, coyotes, quail, deer of course, turkey, and people have been seeing cougers. The best shot you can take with a bow is definitly a neck shot, or any spine shot. It drops the deer right where it is, but of course its still alive so you have to put your knife in the back of there head. It kills them instantly. I learned that a few years ago. I use to cut the throat and I hated doing that because the deer would always belly out at me and I would feel bad. Anyone ever have a bow blow up on them? My dads Oneida blew up on him a few years ago.

K&N's and head gasket are sold.

Cool thats what i was thinking but wasnt positive. It will save me 10 bucks a piece getting the 4inch ones too so its win win.

I personally use 2 snorkels wrapped in high temp wrap with a 4 inch baffel. Buy paul turner mids for when you need low end power more then top Buy Toomeys for a more all around pipe, from lets go for a putt through the woods to lets go fast through the dunes Buy fmfs if toomeys are out of the price range Also pro circuits are an all around pipe. Idk there price comparison to fmf and toomeys though. Nor do I know if there any better then toomeys and fmfs. I have them and like them, havent compared them to anything though.

Yea my back are still tolerable but im going to do them all at once. I never use my rear though unless im in an "o shit" situation.

Magicracing.com or the dealer. What size you need. I have some laying around I dont use. PM me, if you need a size I dont use you can have it.

I noticed today that the new pods they sell at magics are only 4inches long as compared to mine which are 5 inches. Any effects on the motor between the two? Thanks.

I have pro-circuit pipes. I have the timing plate as well. I just figure pro-circuits and toomeys are in the same ball park as far as pipes go. I apprieciate the offer to help me out. Right now im tuning it at my dads shop which as about a 1000 foot stretch of parking lot to tool around on. I have enough room to get the bike just into 4th but right now my brakes are totally gone so stopping is becoming a problem. How much would you suggest shaving the head? I dont want to put too much stress on the crank. Im probably going to go to the old gun range by my house either this weekend or the next, its not a "legal" place to ride, but its been there for at least 7 years now and people are always back there. The only time there is really problems is in the summer when the dust is flying and people living across the street call and complain. I guess whoever buys the land has to dig down 12 feet through the whole property and back fill it because of all the lead in the ground. No one will ever buy the land so its been used for riding and off roading now. I have pro-circuit pipes. I have the timing plate as well. I just figure pro-circuits and toomeys are in the same ball park as far as pipes go. I apprieciate the offer to help me out. Right now im tuning it at my dads shop which as about a 1000 foot stretch of parking lot to tool around on. I have enough room to get the bike just into 4th but right now my brakes are totally gone so stopping is becoming a problem. How much would you suggest shaving the head? I dont want to put too much stress on the crank. Im probably going to go to the old gun range by my house either this weekend or the next, its not a "legal" place to ride, but its been there for at least 7 years now and people are always back there. The only time there is really problems is in the summer when the dust is flying and people living across the street call and complain. I guess whoever buys the land has to dig down 12 feet through the whole property and back fill it because of all the lead in the ground. No one will ever buy the land so its been used for riding and off roading now.

Yea exactly, going from midrange into top end its like turing one on. It just takes off instead of being more of a smooth transition or kind of smooth transition. I know banshees are a top end kind of bike but its like rip your arms off kind of a transition.

Ive been reading up on toomey.com and dynajet.com they say to put the needle clip on the 4th position for the type of mods I have. Right now my midrange to top end is like a light bulb turning on. Will moving it to the 4th position clear this up? Also air screws... turns out= leaner? or richer? I have 27.5 pilots what would be a good starting point for my mods, there in my sig. Thanks.

Im going to be changing the brake pads on my bike this week and I was wondering if theres anything you have to do to the rotors. Like have them turned like on a car. Or should I buy new rotars. I wore right through the metal on the pads. Another question, why do they cost 25 bucks a set. Thats 75 dollars for new pads. Its that much for ones on a car. Just really annoys me.

All parts are off a 95 banshee. Take paypal or cashiers check. -Headlights -Head light "crazy eyes" covers - TORS system - used K&N pod filters - brand new head gasket - yellow gas tank plastic- rad shroud - purple rear plastics Make any offer on the parts. They are just taking up space.

The hardware store tubing was a terrible buy for me. 1. had a bitch of a time getting them on, had to head the ends up to get them on. 2. cant use em on the hose going from the head to the cases between the reeds, it bends and puts a crease in there. 3. get really soft when bike is hot 4. get foggy after about 3 rides 5. had them fall one fall off I switched back to the stock ones. I would spend the money on the expensive ones if you really want them, you pay for what you get.

Up and down should have no play, side to side play is ok to a certain tolerance. In the ol clymers manual i think it said 2mm of play side to side is the max. My brand new crank from vitos had half a mm play in it out of the box.

Yea my fronts are shaved so there stiff, but the rears arent so they flex a good amount. Im goin to use my oooold purple plastics I have laying around to test on and see how it holds up. If it holds up bad I suppose I will just use my old plastics as a mold and make new ones out of fiberglass and then spray them with emron or all grip.

Well i remember I had stock racing stripes on my old dodge ram ss/t and when it was in an accident I had the guy clear coat over the stripes so that they were just as shinny as the rest of the truck. I wax my plastics now and the graphics kit on it looks soo good when waxed, but the plastics look like shit. I think if they were all cleared then it would all be nice and shinny and look real good. I just dont want the clear to crack from the flex of the plastics and start to chip off. I know they ad flex aditive to paint for plastic bumpers on cars and such but i dont know if you can add the flex additive to clear coat. Can you? Thanks

I was wondering if you could spray some coats of clear over plastics. As in you buy brand new plastics, put a nice graphics kit on and have all the plastics clear coated.

Well when I do sell it Im going to sell it locally. I would disclose all the info on the bike anyways. Such as its a 2003 frame and 95 engine cases, carbs, axle, and swingarm. The whole bottom end parts are out of a 2004 which i noticed I didnt mention before. Id rather just be honest with whoever looks at it when I put it up forsale, as in tell them exactly what there getting. Id hate to see another young kid in the situation I was in 8 years ago. Broke ass shee with no money to fix it. With a 2003 frame and title I could list it as a 2003 though which will bring people out to see it rather then see that its a 95 and go man that thing is probably a peice of shit.

As for the title idk if I can get it cleared up. I havent tried since I havent thought about selling it till this week. Im thinking I might be able to go there with the numbers and get a replacement title or a title where I say I built the bike part by part. I know if you build a trailer you can get it titled so i think you could with a quad as well possibly. If not im going to buy a frame with a title. Probably a newer frame like 2000 and up. That way it looks like a newer bike then it is. All in all it is a brand new bike so its not like im ripping someone off by getting a 2003 frame and saying the bike is a 2003 when really its a 95 and its about to grenade. I will just tell the person the carbs, axle and swingarm are off a 95 because those are the only parts that are from 95. When I put it up for sale im going to up it up for 4500,must sell. That way its a high starting price and people go hey, he must sell it so im sure he will take less then 4500 for it. Like when i bought it, listed for 4000, offered the guy 3000, didnt even hesitate to say yeah ill take 3000. Theres nothing really forcing the sale other then 4000 bucks in back credit cards and student loans but they can wait. Plus I need a new car. 140k on a chrysler means one thing, something big is going to break. Im going to post some pics up sometime over the weekend. I would hate to let it go for less then 3500 it would be like selling my kidneys for coke. Is there a benefit to parting it out, i mean other then if its stolen like most gypsys do. Damn thieves.

Dude where do you hunt? I must go there. That rack is huge! Did anyone happen to hear about the guy that got caught having sexual relations with a dead dear on the side of the road? Yea I heard it on the radio the other week. Fuckin sick. I hope it wasnt a buck.

DAMN!! I said be harsh. Dont kick me in the balls. J/k.