kubiac3

Im not sure if the 200watt stator has different ohm ratings, you could call ricky stator and find out. But I just wanted to let you know that even if the stator tests good it can still be bad. I had a huge electrical problem couldnt find out what the hell it was replaced everything basically and stil nothing, replaced the stator that tested good and bam o, started on first kick.

Id bump the mains up to 290's and see how they look, I have basically the same mods as you other then vitos super stock pistons and im running 310's at sea level.

Have oil comming out of the left pipe. Smoked alot when reved up high on left pipe, but not when idleing. Gear lube reads perfect when cold, once it warms up and I shut it down and check it it reads basically low as possible. I figured it was from kicking it about 300 times during my electrical problems, but want to get everyones opinion. After running for about 10 minutes I pulled the plugs, the left one was kinda white still with some carbon on it, id say about right for only running for 10 minutes. The right on the other hand was little white but mainly black. Either plug was wet at all. What do you guys think it is. Seal? Coolant? Nothing? Something? Who the hell knows? Thanks.

Idk anything about CPI's but when my pro circuits start blowing shit out of them I repack the silencers and it stops it till next time i need to repack em. You could also just try amsoil 50:1 and see what happens. Its less oil with same amount of protection so it would be basically like leaning out your carbs without the hassle. For instance in the summer I add a little bit more oil to my premix instead of rejetting.

Castor oil is what I use to run, I had a run in with a highly intelligent person who told the the story of oils, basically everything about em. Castor oil is what Henry Ford used in the model T, thast how old the stuff is. It works, but its dirty, gummy and plain out nasty and unclean. Its perfect if your engine has low compression it will bring that compression right back up. The main thing is to think of it like this, castor which is petroleum based oil, has been around for a long ass time, therefore it clearly works. That doesnt mean its the best thoguh. Synthetic oil is clearly the best oil to run in your car right? So why would you not want to run that in your quad. Petroleum oils break down faster then synthetics and are alot more gummy. This guy seriously talked to me for about 2 hrs about oils, I wish I could remember everything he said. All in all he said run amsoil 50:1 and no matter what you do run synthetics. He also said you could run amsoil dominater at 100:1 if you wanted.

I have them and dont care for them too much. They wear pretty fast. There the only tire ive tried on my banshee so far though, other then stock, so they could be the best and could be the worst. I think I paid 600 for a set of 4 on douglas .190 rims so 187 is a steal.

Yea thats what I was thinkin. Ima take the pipes off and spray some air through em. Yea dude im so effin stoked to take her out.

HAHAHAHAHAHA, my electrical problems are over! Its running guys, well was running. I forgot to torque down the flywheel, so the flywheel basically came loose and sheared my degree key. No biggy though. So new coil, stator, and flywheel and wiring = running shee. I have another question though, its blowing oil out of the right pipe. and dripping out of the left. Im thinking its from kicking it over about 300 times and it not running but let me know if you guys think its something bigger, im going to do a leak down test saturday to make sure its not a seal or anything of that nature though. Thanks.

The TORS is basically a unit thats about idk 4 or 5 inches tall, it attaches to the top of your carbs and has a little knob on the top. If you dont have it you will just have carb caps like normal carbs with cables comming out of the top, no electrical wires or anything like that. Let me know if you have them or not ill help you out. Also when you get it running spray some starting fluid around your reeds, carb boots, anything that is bolted onto the engine to see if you have any air leaks. If it revs up you have an air leak. Never mind the starting fluid thing i read your post wrong. I mean you can do it if you want but i dont think thats your problem. K, do this, check the spark yourself. Pull the plugs, attach an alligator clip to the bottom of the plug and attach the other end to your frame. Kick it see if you see a nice fat blue spark. You could be getting a weak spark. Check the spark and let me know. If the spark sucks and you have the TORS then you should start there and remove it, then see what happens.

When you take it off check and see if the spring is attached to the little pin on the top left hand side, its hard to miss. If it isnt just take some needle nose and pull it on up to the pin.

Nope havent thought of that, im going to do that tomorrow, its a damn good idea. Trying to hold it is a bitch. Yea I have a new key in there, today after I put the flywheel on and it wouldnt start I checked to make sure the key wasnt sheared and it wasnt. My dad and I then tried to push start it which ALWAYS works. I have never had a failed push start on my shee. It didnt start doing that either. Im looking at it like this now, I have a new flywheel, new wiring, new stator soon, new kill switch soon. The only thing left after the stator and kill switch is the CDI. So screw it! I will have a fully new electrical system! Do you guys know if you can get those multi wire connectors anywhere other then the dealerships.

Put the flywheel on today, it starting sounded like this.... you hear that? Yup nothing. Anyone have a stator for sale? Also I discovered it tries to start with the on off switch in either position. I found this funny though, I called magic racing on my way home. Ricky Stator stock stator 226 dollars there. Vitos has it for 125 and i think its 125 on ricky stators website. I couldnt believe that price.

right on, thanks. I just wanted to touble check.

Ive been told to try and run the 4 stroke 0W40 weight gear oil in my shee, the guy said its what he puts in all the bikes that go out of his shop. Was wondering if this would be bad, good, better, worse. Rather then a 80 weight like most 2 stroke gear oils. The guy definitly seemed to know what he was talking about, but im sure you guys know how that goes. Any help is appreciated. Since my shee should be driveable tomorrow afternoon, if all goes well.

WHOHAHAHAHA, ok I couldnt get the day off work today so I didnt have time to make it to Vitos, BUT I called them, they said its probably the stator, but check the flywheel, take it off and shake it by your ear and see if you hear some rattling. If it rattles the magnets are broken loose and can cause the spark somtimes problem. HAHAHA I take it off, shake it, yes it rattles. SO, tomorrow afternoon im headin to vitos to get the flywheel, It could still be my stator though. The flywheel is definitly not good though so at least I got that going for me. As for the carbs flooding problem, yea thats been fixed. Also as for setting the timing at 0, cant happen, woodruff key is long gone, wish I knew where it was. Im going to see if vitos has one though while im there because thats a good idea. And for the reed spacers and boost bottle, they came with the bike. I dont have the old cross over tube to put it back on and I probably will take the reed spacers off next time im taking that area apart, lookin into getting some v force 3's. Ive already bought a flywheel puller after seeing what my pops did to the flywheel so thats taken care of. I also made a flywheel holder out of some box tubing and bolts and nuts and some electrical tape for a nice grip, its ugly, but it works. Let me tell you guys though buy a impact gun, it has made taking the flywheel off sooo much easier and takes alot less time, it makes an awesome sound too, makes you feel and look like you know what your doing! I want to thank all of you guys though for your help, id be banging my head on the curb if it wasnt for your guys ideas.

Ok I just searched high and low, ive came to this conclusion for now.. My dad removed my flywheel with a jaw type flywheel puller. (trying to do me a favor). Well theres some good marks in it from that, not to mention a nice screw driver pry mark. I "think" that the flywheel is spinning on the crank in a cock eyed manner causeing this spark, no spark situation. And seeing that im clearly going to need a new flywheel anyways im going to drive an hr to vitos performance tomorrow morning and buy one and see what happens. I "think" this is the problem I have at hand.

:: well carb slides were in wrong, put them in right, it didnt help anything. Kicked it a good 120 times tonight, spent the night adjusting the carbs here and there, sprayed starting fluid on the air filters, took the filters off and sprayed it in the carbs, sprayed it right in the cylindars. Changed the plugs twice. I even pulled the flywheel and switched the timing key around just to make sure it was good and wasnt in backwards. I switched the coil wires around too, in the manual it shows the orange wire hooked to ground and black to positive. Ive always had ground to negative and orange to positive, thought maybe just maybe that was it. I use to run 110 octane and i switched to 93, i really didnt have to run 110 i just did because i thought it was better, but it ran when i used 110 octane. I also installed a new clutch basket when i did th rebuild, could something inside the gearing and clutch cause it not to start? Also when i rewired it I removed my key and lighting system, I hooked the key wire comming out of the CDI to the ground. I also cut the connecter off and just hooked up individual connectors. I think my main problem is im actually getting spark sometimes. So my question is my stator tests fine, but could it be the stator even if it tests good. Is it my CDI? It ran perfect before so i dont see how the CDI could go bad sitting on the bike while the engine was taken out. Heres what my set-up is.. .40 over vitos super stock pistons +4 timing key boysen reeds reed spacers boost bottle polished intake stock carbs with 27.5 pilot and 310 mains, needle on 3rd position Amsoil 50:1 with 93 octane Any ideas? Ive also heard before that switching your carb bowls can cause problems, theres markings on the inside of each carb, mine are both 1-2 and exactly the same.

Awesome, im actually pumped the slides are backwards, this means I dont have to buy more stuff probably. When I put the flywheel on the gap was at .22. Im headin to the shop right now to switch them around, I will let you guys know what happens. Im pretty sure now that its it, The spark is really good, I painted the head and clear coated it 4 times so i think its not getting a good ground, when i hold it on the studs on the head it gets a good spark but its hard to hold it there steady and kick it at the same time, therefore I get a spark sometimes.

Right now I have the cut out on the carb slides facing the reeds. Is that right?

I cleaned the carbs completely today, and put fresh plugs and gas in it. I have spark, some of the time, but it could be because I painted and cleared my head and i get a ground some of the time when doing a spark test. Do you guys think it could be my CDI or stator even though it tests good? Im running out of ideas. I might just keep buying new parts till I buy one that fixes it. terrible idea but its all i got.

Banshee will not RUN!! Rewired it 3 times to make sure It wasnt that, stator tests fine, put on brand new coil, and still nothing. It ran perfect before I did the rebuild. The only things I changed on it this time were a +4 degree key, went from 32:1 castor oil to 50:1 Amsoil, went from 320 main jets to 310 mains, and went from 110 octane to 93 octane. I have 120lbs of pressure in each cylindar, the crank case is not leaking any oil either. It starts for about 3 seconds after kicking it like a donkey with the throttle wide open. then gas flows out of the over flow after that. Im going to check the carb bowls tomorrow, if thats not it then idk. Ive had problems with it since day one, thought giving her a face lift would gain some respect from her. :mad:

double post

You could polish your intakes yourself. I did it on mine and noticed a good amount of gain, nothing that port work can do but it was pretty damn good for a do it yourself project. it was easy too. Sand paper is all you need

Need working flywheel, and ignition coil. Possibly need CDI if the flywheel and ignition coil dont fix the problem. Thanks.

Would a banged up flywheel cause your banshee not to start or not get spark? I noticed a few pretty rough marks on the edges of the flywheel today that I never noticed before. Looks as if someone before me took it off with a screw driver and took it off with a jaw wheel puller too. Wondering if this would cause your shee not to start what so ever and not get spark. Thanks.