kubiac3

I had the bolt inside the frame break off before. You can just take a cutting torch and cut that area open, peel it back. Weld on a new bolt really well, then peel the metal back where its suppose to be, weld it up, and grind it smooth. Thats the hard way, wish I saw those inserts 2 weeks ago.

Yea the coolant was totally out, I painted the head and cylindars and cases when I had it apart. Im for a loss of ideas as to what it is. Im going to go through the wireing again tonight. If i dont figure it out its going to the shop the next day and let them figure it out.

Hooked that ground up, still nothing. Checked the stator, pickup, and coil. All good. Reeds are in good shape. Heres a question.... I had spark, now im not getting any. Do you guys think its the CDI?

The only mod I did was the timing key, Reeds are good, choke tube is there, gas is on and in the tank. I havent done a leak down test. I have to buy a tool to do that right? Also I was looking at the wireing diagram in the manual and I noticed the ground that comes out of the stator, well I never hooked that up, Im going to hook it up tonight and see what happens. I hope thats it. I did a compression test when I put it back together and I have 120 lbs in each cylindar.

I recently rebuilt my whole motor, put it in and now spark, rewired the whole bike. I now have spark! Heres the problem, it wont run. It will fire for like split seconds at a time. I was wondering what you guys think this problem would be. I installed a degree key recently too. I pulled the flywheel today to see if the degree key sheared off, everything is fine in there. The gap between my pickup coil and fly wheel is .22 Any input would be awesome. Im stumped on this.

HA Lions. Man thats a joke. We went from hockey town, to DETROIT BASKETBALL, to the Tigers...Im guessing the lions are up next so hang in there. I love that a team making league minimum beat a team with a payroll of 200 million(Yankees). Just makes me smile.

Ok, I rewired her today, went super smooth. Went to start it and it would fire for like a split second(sounds like one cylindar at a time, they would switch between each other). I have spark. I put a Vitos +4 degree key in it recently and havent started it yet with it in. I am thinking i may have installed the degree key in backwards causing the timing to retard rather then advance which is giving me this problem. Wondering if you guys think the same. Also when i rewired it I used 12 gauge wire because i had some laying around, I also took all the lights off, and the key. I just wired the key wire that comes out of the CDI to the ground. Wondering if any of the things I did when rewiring it could cause this problem. Thanks guys.

AHHH!! Thats how you do it! haha. thanks a ton guys Yea i was locking down the nut with tons of free play in it.

And with one home run in the bottom of the 9th the Tigers go on to the world series. Come on now who is pumped!

So Ive read the clymers manual about 20 times on how to adjust the clutch, did it about 13 times. Still clutch doesnt work correctly. When I pull the clutch in and try to push the bike it doesnt roll. First I pulled the push lever that goes into the case over to the marking on the cases and lined it up, then screwed in the adjustment on the front of the clutch hub till it hit the clutch push lever. Then held the adjustment screw there and tightened down the jam nut. Now after I did this I have a huge amount of free play, I adjusted the free play to what it says in the manual and still bike will not roll when clutch is pulled in. Please tell me if I missed a step or did something wrong when adjusting it. I put on a new clutch cable, clutch basket, inner hub, and push rod and ball. Also the push rod goes into the gear befor the ball does correct? Just wondering if I may have reversed them which is causing my problem. Im completely irritated with it.

Where do you relocate the CDI to. I was thinking under the seat on that cross member. I dont have an air box so theres plenty of space around there.

Put the banshee back together last night after a total rebuild, worked on it till 6am. Couldn't get it started. The only wires I disconnected were the plug coming off the stator. I get no spark what so ever so i decided instead of spending all the time to figure out what wire is fucked and where it is im just going to rewire the whole thing. Has anyone done this and did they have any problems during it that they didnt expect. Its a 95 and theres bare wires showing at almost every connector so I think its a good idea. Correct me if im wrong.

Yea, the new clutch basket is a performance engineering, from magic racing. I mean it fits on fine, its just snug, but i remember the bushing spinning inside the clutch basket and gears and being pretty loose. You think it will loosin up once its been heated up from the tranny a bit? Theres no nicks or anything like that in it, and same with the clutch basket and gear.

Yea im talking about the one with spiral grooves in it. Is there a special way it goes in or what. This is blowing my mind, I took it off, put it in a tub of gear lube with all my clutch parts and now it doesnt go in smooth at all. thanks.

At last in my 20 years of life I finally get to see the Tigers go to the post season. Then clean up the Yankees, then take the A's to school 2 days in a row. Who would like to see the Tiger win the world series.

That is a problem, I would never let a dealership molest my baby.

First of I was wondering if the bushing that the clutch basket mounts over is suppose to fit rather tight or if its suppose to slide in and out. It came right out when i took it off now it seems I have to put some force to get it inside the basket. Want to make sure its ok to fit tight before I put the engine back in the bike tomorrow. Also, are the clutch spring bolts special at all or are they just a bolt and washer, it seems the washers dont come off of mine so i was wondering if going to the hardware store and buying some new bolts and washers would cause any problem. I seem to have put the bag of them in a secret spot so noone can find them, not even me. Thanks for the help.

When I got it I was 14, I wasnt really to worried about having a legal bike and what not, a year later I stripped the bike down and started rebuilding the whole thing, im just about finished with the rebuild after about 4 or 5 years and I realized last night that my bike never had a title, now that im 20 it bothers me that my bike doensnt have a title.

So I was wondering if you can get a replacement title for your shee. Mine is a 95, when i bought it the guy never had one, I have a bill of sale though from the guy i bought it from. I was wondering if I can take the VIN's down to secretary of state and get a new title. Also if for some reason my shee is hot, do they just take it away? Ive had it for about 6 years now and I just finished my rebuild on it so i think i would cry if that happened. thanks for the help.

I just took my pro circuit silencers apart, put about 4 electrical staples inside wrapped the ends around the baffle, now when they test with there little stick to see, it hits em and they think there spark arrestors. Im going to have to buy this kit though for that sticker, or have a sticker shop make me 2 of em.

95 shee, Pro Circuit pipes, K&N pods, boost bottle, reed spacers, boysen reeds, polished intake, vitos super stock pistons, and +4 timing advance. I currently have 310 mains, 27.5 pilots, needle on 3rd position. Sea- level here. Wondering if this is a good jetting for my mods, Im just finishing up rebuilding the whole engine and I want to get the jetting pretty close before i put the engine back in the bike. I was thinking my mains were too big though from what ive been reading. If so should i go with 280, 290 or 300. Thanks.

Well I went to magic racing and dropped 360 with tax for a vitos stock crank on saturday. I wanted to get the stroker but the price is just too high for me. I know its not that much of a difference but I just want this bike finished and be able to ride it. I plan on building a new engine over the winter for it and then selling the one in it right now next spring. This way Ill have her running for the winter ice races on lake st. clair. Now I just have to paint the cases and put it together. I plan on power washing them, priming them with zync chromate primer, painting them with high heat paint, then spraying them with good shinny paint, then clear coating em a couple of times.

I already have the vitos super stocks, i bought them about 4 or 5 years ago when i rebuilt the top end, i rode the bike for about 10 hours when the clutch ball and push rod welded itself together inside the gear shaft, so there basically brand new. When the bike broke down i decided to the whole thing because its a 95. So i repainted everything and spent alot of money i couldnt afford to spend over the past 4 or 5 years. Im on the final stretch now, the crank is the last piece of the puzzle so im totally stoked!!

Was wondering what crank would be best to buy. I was looking at the Vitos one because its only 340 bucks. Also wondering if I could go with a stroker crank with stock porting and vitos super stock pistons and stock carbs, I dont know anything when it comes to stroker cranks as to what you need to change and that sorta stuff. Thanks for the help.

I was wondering if you needed to prime the cases with zinc chromate primer or if just regular old primer will do. I plan on priming it with whatever you guys suggest, the sparying it will high heat paint, then kandy primer, then kandy paint, then clearing it a shit load of times. Good idea? By the way at wall mart... they sell this paint called shirmins (made by house of colors), its really frickin good, i painted my side cases with it, I can see myself in them now. Its like the poor mans way of buying nice side cases. I highly recommend it.