brian

run it for a minute or two, then pull the plugs and post what they look like. you may need to move needles to the 4th clip-one step closer to the pointed end. (it got better when you richened the mid range so maybe try giving it more) look to see what markings are stamped in the sides of the needles. also, has the float level been set properly ? do you have new plugs in it ?

lemme know what it does after moving the needle. i would still do a WOT test to verify it is rich even if lowering the needle does not make a marked difference. i am sure it is still pretty rich tho. i think youre gonna end up in the mid-low 140s with that main when you are finished.

Amen to that bruthah !! everyone seems to think they gotta run a huge jet ! these air strykers flow alot of fuel !!

dont jack with that yet. just work on the jetting. the effect of the timing on the jetting will be minimal anyway. change one thing at a time or tuning it will be harder cuz you wont know what causes the changes. advancing the timing will change the powerband giving it more bottom end, but it will generally have a negative effect on the top end. you can advance a stock motor, but i have heard that 4 deg is probably about the max.

sounds like you can go down to 40 on the pilot. you really should need to use the choke. especially in the cold. i know it has to be cold there in Mass. if you have 150s in now don't go lower yet. adjust the needle height. when you give it gas from 1/8 throttle to 3/4 the adjustment will be mostly in the needle. move the clip one notch toward the blunt end. after you do that it will feel even better. then do a plug chop. you need to do the wot test to be sure. plug chop info now, i don't actually cut my plugs, but knowing what to look for is the important part. if you look carefully you can see the ring down in there. just follow the rest of the directions very closely and use new plugs for reading unless they come out lean. if you are sure of what you are seeing, cut the plugs to read. i always try to keep it a little bit rich on mine just to be safe.

if it is leaking out of the tubes when sitting still, you may want to recheck the float setting. sounds like the float bowl may be overflowing. that can also cause the low end bog you are experiencing. "all of the fuel" never gets burnt in a 2 stroke engine. that is why the friggin tree huggers have gotten our beloved 2 stroke engines banned from further sale here in the good ol USA. you might be having a bit more unburnt fuel in the pipes due to the rich condition on the bottom end. that may be whats spraying out. but remember, a byproduct of combustion is water. more so when it is cool and humid. thats why you see steam/water leaking out of tailpipes of cars on cool mornings.

theres not any hidden things. those carbs are pretty simple. just make sure it is really clean. i like to use carb cleaner to spray through all of the cross holes to make sure they are clean. and also make sure you clean the air bypass screw and seat.

they may still set you up a lil rich, but it will be a good start. i still had to buy a couple of smaller sizes for mine.

i just adjusted (bent) the clutch arm down a little. i know that sounds bad, but i dont really want to put spacers in. i have heard that you loose performance using reed spacers.

Hey Violent, I'm running Air Strykers on a ported 4mil. with K&N pods and CPI inframes. i run a 152 main in cooler weather with a 42 pilot (just pulled and checked) and my needle is in the 2nd clip from the blunt end. but you are running uni filters in a box w/o lid and i dont know what pipes you are running and what temperature it is running in. thats why i never gave you any of my jetting info. but..... we do have a similar setup and we are using the same carbs. if your needle is the same as stock, my jetting should get you close cuz even tho you are a little warmer and at sea level, mine should be able to get a bit more wind. (i only said close...you do need to do a plug chop) if those carbs were used, you really don't know what that guy did to them. you are right to check what needles are in there, it sounds like they are either different than mine or they are adjusted closer (clip pos) to the pointed end. check it out and let us know.

if you don't have any yet i have a set .04 over stock port. very nice shape.

i have an idle kit (screws/nuts, tap, caps). if you want it pm me.

cool jay ! awesome link. :thumbsup:

as far as the slide height at idle........ it is pretty important to get them even. i have heard of guys using popsicle sticks to do it. they put the tip of the stick under the edge of the slide with the center resting on the bottom of the inlet. when the ends of the two sticks look even the slides are pretty even. this will also need to be done to adjust the throttle cables so the carbs are syncronized. now, i might get crucified for this because it is important to have the carbs in sync, but............. i usually do all of this visually (without the sticks) by fixing on a point in the throat of the carbs and tuning the slides to look like they are open equally at idle and they open at the same time and speed when you crack the throttle. it's just the way i am comfortable doing it. i'm sure that it does take me a bit longer that way tho.

yeah, go ahead and drop to the 45 pilots. you should need to use the chokes to start it cold. i still think you could go down to a 42 but you'll just have to see. also, what filters are you running again ? i think that 170 main will be way too fat. like i said b4, i have ported a 4mil with K&N pods and the same carbs and i am currently running 152 mains. try putting in the 165 or smaller main b4 trying to dial in the mid range (needle). you will probably have to lower the needle one groove (move clip one notch toward the blunt end). the motor should rap hard off idle when cracking the throttle. if it is too fat, it will bog and stumble b4 revving up. my idle speed screws are just about all the way in also, so i don't think thats a huge problem. it is probably still too fat to get it to idle by itself (without opening the throttle).

nevermind that thread. all of the pics have been removed cuz someone fucked up their crank and blamed it on Red. just get the Clymers and folloe the step by step instructions.

do yourself a favor. get a Clymers manual for your bike. it will help you out alot also, check this out: Big Red's teardown Red did a really good job of showing you how it is done. Have Fun !!

Name is 1Dir Racing. They are in SD Calif. I bought the carbs new on e-bay from them. They are very nice. I really like the setup.

yeah, or better yet..........get rid of the whole damn box !

Yeah, i had one of the screws come out of the clutch dampner cover......... fucked a bunch of shit up, gotta tear the new 4mil back apart to clean out all the aluminum shavings. lucky tho that it didn't get between any of the gears !!

need more info............ any porting done to the cylinders ? what size carbs are you running ? stock or aftermarket head (dome size/compression) ?

the pilots will mostly affect the idle circuit. 42s should be pretty close maybe still a little fat though. I don't know that there is a "factory jet size" for them. I always thought that they were for a racing application so the jets would always depend on the setup. I bought a new set and the company asked a bunch of questions about my setup and jetted it according to the info i gave them. they did jet it pretty fat, but it was a starting point. Sounds like that needle is your problem though. I'd tell ya what's in mine, but i would have to pull them out. You can call the compay that sold me my carbs and ask them what needles they would set the carbs up with for your engine. 858-679-3288 (support line)

what is the size of it ? there are quite a few phillips head screws in there.

i bought mine from the local Fastenal dealer. same thing about the same price.

you can only bore as big as the slide diameter. any more than that and it will be hell gettin it to idle. lol but, you can offset the bore (a little oval) about .02 toward the top (choke side). i agree with dave though, i cant see any reason to fuck with the intake boots.