Bansh-eman

if your going to rebuild the bottom end and put s stroker in it... you would be a fool to use stock oem pistons! cast pistons are much weaker then forged.. get a set of wiesco... if your running 64mm bore (stock) you will need weisco 795's... also theres no need to run the plate you can have the domes cut to your cc and your stroke.... as far as porting goes there are a ton of ppl that can hook your motor up.. gorr isnt doing motors anymore... look at Passion or F.A.S.T. for your porting... they do really nice work and can answer your questions on what type of porting will suit your riding style... you can put the crank in your self if you have the tools, its very ez... just get a clymers and it will walk you through step by step...make sure you have the crank RE-welded by a reputable builder. id say get your self some PWK 35mm carbs for this setup... look at a new ignition... the Dyanktek is very nice! also get a billet impeller to help cool your new monster...as far as the cc cut for your domes its all about what gas you want to run... if your running race gas any ways go 20, 19 , 18 ... if your trying to saty away from race gas go higher... ultimately untill you get your motor back and see what kind of compression your runnng you wont know for sur what gas to run... but if your going to get a 4mill stroker 5mill longrod... on stock bore with 22cc domes your looking at about 145 psi.. so youd be ok running 50/50

yea i know my other buddy has the same bike.. we already pulled the arrester and the lid.. now we just got to get him jets so it will run good....

realy fast my buddy just got a new YFZ450 and we are tyring to rip out the spark arrester.. we took th rear cap off of it but its not budging.... am i missing a bolt or is it just tight in there and you got to rip it out? nevermind i got it it just had some trash on the metal olding it in... thnx guys

i was going to say shipping isnt very much on those jugs... passion , F.A.S.T. , Rocketboy , theres a few ppl on here that can hook your jugs up with a fat port job.

its probly your jetting... you went from stock reeds to VF3? or was it boysen RAD to VF3? check your jetting... as far as your bile running 19cc domes... your over doing it, your bike is pretty much stock, theres no resaon to run 19's... bump those babys to 21s or 22s and you wont be forced to run race gas but will still get the use out of that head.... if you know how do a plug chop and see if you need to rejet... if not do a shearch and youll find several posts of how to do it...

depending on what kind of go-kart frame... not very hrad... my family raced go-karts for like 15 or 20 years, there is a class that runs 125 engines from drit bikes and other class that runs 250s. the frame im talking about come with the motor mounts and everything already there so you dont have to fabricate anything... but they are damn expinsive... but if you got the tools and the time its not very hard to do....just got to fab up some mounts make sure they are straight so your gears arnt pulling at an angle and probly reinforce your axle carriers...

lol you have 2 of the same post... i sent you the link in that one...

or you can do like me and put the motor on the ground and stomp on the wrench for the puller lol probly not a good idea but it worked

pm sent along with an email

DAWN dish soap is GREAT thats what we rused when we raced go-karts for like 15 years!

if you have plans to get a nice ports job and storke it get the cpi's now no scence in spending the money 2 times for pipes

id get a 2000 and newer.... id personally dont like the older models with "J" arms vice "A" arms bt for the most part they have remained the same...

if you dont have a sync tool your more then likely not on... ask Polish... he swore that his was right becasue he did his for over an hour but when he used my tool his was WAY off

yes advancing makes you lose top end and gain bottom and vise versa for retarding timing

i like how this guy is selling all that shit for 345 bucks and you still have cheap basterds that try to squeeze you down to 275.00 your pretty much getting the stator cover at cost and everythng else for free and your asking for 70 bucks off...

it might also be your head leaking and letting coolant in your jugs and smoking that side as well....as far as your right seal leaking ... im not 100% on this either so if someone knows plz chime in but the pressure from the crank case should push fuild away from the seal instead of sucking it in ???? but i could be backwards....

if your jets are not from the same kit chances are that they are not the same... as far as the crank seal im not 100% but i dont think it effects the compression test casue thats the pressure on the top of the pistons at the domes... thats why you have to do a leak down test to see if you have a bottom end leak. but like i said before you wouldnt be running rich if you have a leak you would be running lean. 125 for a stock motor im assuming? thats not too bad ...

do a leak down test and get some water and soap and spray it around all your seals and gaskets if your leaking it will bubble at the leak... but if your running rich you shouldnt have a leak ... leaks casue you to run lean. and its rich at idle right? check your pilots and make sure they match... if you can get a feeler gauge and test them rather then going with the stamped numbers... also check your idle screws make sure they are for sure at the same setting.. i had this problem and my screws where like 20 clicks off from each other...

follow this pictuer guide to take your top end off... Splitting Cases read in your new piston kit it will give you an amount of ring gap needed per mm of bore and do the math for your bore.....example for weisco prolites on a stock bore (64mm) you need to have .010-.012 of ring gap... to messure this put your ring in the cylinder and flaten it out using the top of the piston by pushing it down on the ring until its level all the way around, then use a feeler gauge ( you can get at sears) and test the gap, if you are less then the amount needed get a very fine file and take equal amounts off both sides of the ring until you get the gap required... now install the rings on the pistons and make sure they are lined up with the "nipple" on the groove where the ring goes. now go opposite of taking the topend apart to put it back together...

hard to say unless you can give us some ideas on what could be casueing it... poor or no spark ignition... fuel carbs could be clogged... new plugs? if not are the old ones fouled? list goes on give us some ideas to work with and we could be more useful.

you will be fine running 93 oct. as far as cutting the tock head to hit 145 im not sure if youwill achieve that on a stocker... im running a 4mil stroker with 5mil longrods on 22cc domes and run 145.

did you crack it all the way through so your leaking fuilds? if not you can tig weld it and youll be good but im sure you canhave it welded either way your just taking a chance if the weld breaks lose that you lean out the moto and stick the intire thing.

they are 60... i just got mine a few weeks ago... they work pretty good.. the only thig i dont like about it is they dont make it with a bolt like head so its very head to thread into your domes, you have to use a pair of pliers and it chews up the metal...

sorry i missed this in my WORD DOC.... prices are plus shipping... A-Arm Skids Underside Skid Frame Guards Swinger Skid make an offer

sounds pretty good... in san diego it costs about 200-240 for a really good PC.