Bansh-eman

well first off dont run race gas if you dont need to.. there isnt any gain to running it and having a stock bike... if anything it will actually hurt your power , now assumming you need race gas so people will argue with this but here we go. a 2 stroke dosent need leaded gas! you premix the oil for lubrication and it does just that its lubricates the motor. lead is a great additive in 4 strokes where at high rpms the motor can lack the time needed in each revelution to get alot of oil to coat the cylinder walls... and thats where the leaded fuel helps out... just get 110 unleaded race gas and run a preimium premix and your fine... now you listed methonal and alky, keep in mind if you want to play in the dunes you just cut your riding times in half... it takes double the fuel to run an alky bike then it does a gas bike...

thats just like the kid that tested rub dub bikes... kids like a little jockey... jeepamns buddy was there the day that the busa got beat and i guess he was having clutch problems... that things nutz! dude said he waits until the front tires come off the ground and then he hits the nos.. but he can barley tap it casue after thats hes at the top of the hill!

dang loks like your motor is too big for that frame

thats the one thanx...thought it was rub dub but i guess its a podos

anyone got the link the the 16mil rubdub beating that busa? im tring to find it to show my buddy..

host the picts on imageshack and they give you a link ... hit the picture botton in your post and put the link in there and waalaa

they both cost about the same yamabond i want to say is like 8 or 9 bucks a tube and red hi temp rtv is like 7... but dont quote me on it..

all you need to get is the FZR 1000 fibers and stock steels... all year fibers are the same...

Selling my Fattys and PC2's that have been repacked about 8 hours on the packing... pipes are in good shape normal blueing... silencers have surface rust but can be cleaned with steel wool... no dents send me a pm if interested...

i got a set of the nylon ones i thought i needed to replace mine but they where good... im holding on to them until these are loose and i need to replace them...

ill give you a buzz next time im out there..

yea they can be recut, all they do is cut them 2mm deeper to make up of the 2 mm that the pistons didnt get.

put all 6 hd's in there and you wont think that 50/50 are so bad lol i got arm pump like crayz with all 6

lol i sent him a message this morning telling him that this was an on going practical joke. i got my laugh out of it , but as da said poor dude get beat down with it so i had to brek it to him..i was goingto tell him to keep on going with it and see how far it goes but you guys beat me to the punch..

very well put denny! thats what iv been trying to say the whole time... theres no reason to buy a 250 dollar head when you can do your stocker and get the same gains, i dont know many people that change thier domes yea its nice to have but wash your the first person i know that changes them once they got thier bike up and running. as far as why do we suggest porting first denny hit it on the head.. all the bolt on mods are nice but they dont truly shie until yo get your motor ported , thats when you truely wake the monster inside... you can spend 500-600 bucks on bolt on parts and sure youll have some gains, or you can send 300-400 on a good port job and get GREAT gains, then to complment those gain by adding your bolt ons later. :beer:

well how often do you actually change your domes? 99% of people never do after they get the ones they want, as far as looking tirck id rather not spend 250 bucks to have something trick looking rather then 40 bucks to deck your stocker. imtrying to help the guy get nice gains without spending alot ofmoney being he has 3 bills he is trying to payoff

rasing your compression will give you gain but im 100% sure youd like the power from porting more then the head... plus you can get your stock head cut for much less then a coolhead and domes...

your running a stock crank right now? its going to be night and day! dont bother with a spacer plate... you already have a coolhead have the domes cut for the stroker, the plate gives you onemore thing that can leak and blow your motor. your going to need your motor ported for the stroker so doit all at once.

you will be fine running 3 oem and 3 hd springs thats what me and poish use. when soaking just put all your plates in a plastic bag and pour some oil over them to cover them all. take your old shit off and put the new ones in and they will be good.

thats kinds stupid casue your shortening the life of your jugs to get minimual gains... your biggest bang for your buck will be a nice port job and rasiing your compression by cutting your head.... also reeds for better throttle response

dont bother with the coolhead if your wanting quick performance... get you a nice port job and some new reeds , and have your stock head cut like .020-.030 and your going to have a new bike....

they areboth very good pipes.. the cpi come on a little sooner but fade off the shearers come on a littlel later and last longer more bang for youir buck id say shearers

pipes and silencers are the first thing... get your self a nice suspension, i like works performance +2 a arms would be nice to have... no need for an extended swing if your not doing motor mods... v force reeds and a woods port job and you have a WHOLE new bike... also look iinto a billet impeller..

i got a billet pro design itake and keihin 34mm pj carbs for sale if your interested...carbs have been welded to clear the clutch arm so you dont need spacers.. let me know if you want pict and i can send them once i get home... 425 shipped to the lower 48 states....

it will probly cost you around the same amount to get new cylinders... even to get used stockones and have them re ported would be cheaper in most cases