Truckracer

Pictures would help.

From another board... Waynoka's ATV Trail at Risk of Closure before Your Next Visit "Your sand dune vacation may be at risk" Dear ATV Club, I promise not to take more than a minute or two of your time to clue you in on a real concern that may shut down the ATV Trail before your next visit to the Little Sahara Sand Dunes in Waynoka Oklahoma. I'm sure some of your members tend to visit us here at the dunes. The ATV Trail leading from the sand dunes into the town of Waynoka is a thoroughfare we all count on to provide access to the local amenities such as fuel, food, rental properties and entertainment. The ATV trail has provided the town of Waynoka with the much needed tourist dollars it needs to support the local tourism and economy. There are a handful of local non-motorized residents that have made real head way in persuading local officials to consider closing the trail permanently. In six days (Saturday, March 24th) there will be a meeting held to address local concerns such as the ATV trail and the candidacy of the next Mayor of Waynoka. Mayor Bixler is pro-ATV Trail and was instrumental in opening this access to the dunes two years ago. Now there are non-motorized candidates up for election challenging both Mayor Bixler and the existence of the trail. All we are asking is for you to take a brief moment to email, call or write your support to keep the trail open to the attention of Mayor Charlene Bixler. Brief comments are appreciated; extended comments are even more appreciated. Regardless, we need your comments due to the size of the town. There are only 998 residents who reside in Waynoka. Many do not recreate on the dunes. The town council will need all your support to be persuaded to keep the ATV trail open. Below you will find a recent article published in Waynoka that will further explain this alarming issue and what it will mean to the town if the trail closes. PLEASE NOTE: YOUR COMENTS MUST REACH CITY HALL NO LATER THAN FRIDAY NOON, MARCH 23RD Please make your comment to the attention of: Email: ATT: Mayor Charlene Bixler, C/O Laurie Reyes at City Hall laurie@cityofwaynoka.com Phone: Mayor Charlene Bixler 1- 580-824-2261 (While working to keep the ATV Trail open, she may be unavailable, please leave her a message you called) Mail: City Hall 1759 Cecil Waynoka OK 73860, ATT: Mayor Charlene Bixler All your comments should be titled: Request to Keep the City of Waynoka ATV Trail System Open Sincerely yours, Dan Delasantos Off-Highway Vehicle Consultant OHV Journalist Advantage Property Rentals dandelasantos@comcast.net Waynoka Article Title: Waynoka's Economic Security is at Risk Words: 835 Characters: 4195 Once again the local ATV Trail connecting the Little Sahara State Park to the City of Waynoka Oklahoma is a high priority topic of conversation for local residents. Before any further discussion of closing the ATV Trail takes place, here are some basic facts that we need to be reminded of which can not be ignored. Since the off-highway vehicle recreationists from over 10 surrounding states choose Waynoka as their preferred destination, the town has began to prosper. Once the ATV Trail was completed, several positive economic changes have taken place. In less than one year, property values have increased by an average of 25%; sales tax revenue has increased by 20%; investors have recently purchased property to create new businesses. Gary Junco, president, Junco Investment Properties writes; "Those who seek to close the Trail are sacrificing the future of the town. No one likes change for the sake of change, but changes that have the potential to bring economic growth to this town should be adamantly supported. The ATV Trail is essential to the economic growth of Waynoka. I recently purchased property adjacent to the Trail and any planned development of my property is contingent upon the Trail remaining open. I have been a regular visitor to the area for 20 years and I believe the opening of the Trail to be the single most important event for the long-term growth of the Waynoka community." Advantage Property Rentals is slotted to invest over $250,000 into recently purchased property along the trail. The company has agreed to use local contactors who will also be purchasing materials for their new project locally. The company has already purchased 4 Waynoka properties in the last 2 years and plans to continue the process as long as the trail exists. A recent quote from the owners makes the situation very clear; "No ATV trail, no investment, no local dollars. It's that simple". "The ATV trail provides access to our business. Take away the access and you reduce the success of our business by over 80%. We along with other new investors would be forced to pull out of Waynoka and seek investment opportunities elsewhere." Investors have purchased land for new local economic growth with the expectation that the trail was here to stay. Pulling the rug out from under them by closing the trail threatens their investments and their future in Waynoka. Waynoka has gone through some historic economic changes hinging on a variety of industry. From the airport where Amelia Earhart landed to the rail road made famous by the historic Harvey House, Waynoka has experienced some strong growth patterns. Now as the town has all but closed down, the next wave of success is here and there are those who would turn their backs on this much needed economic infusion. Towns all across the country have groomed local off-highway vehicle access to their benefit by bringing in these much needed tourist dollars. Long time supporter of Waynoka and the Little Sahara State Park is Sand Sports Magazine who has circulated news of Waynoka's ATV trail around the country for the last two years. Editor Michael Sommer writes; "Off-road enthusiasts enjoy riding in remote and rugged terrain. However, they also enjoy the peace of mind that comes with knowing there are amenities close by. Off-road enthusiasts often bring money with them for food, beverages, and souvenirs. It only makes sense for a nearby town to take advantage of the economic benefits of the off-rode community. Should they choose to cut-off access to Waynoka, the off-road visitors will find another place to spend their money, and potentially this would resort to on-site vendors at the State Park. By all means, do whatever you can to convince the town of Waynoka, Oklahoma to keep the trail in place. I would bet that the economic impact on the town will eventually be in the hundreds of thousands of dollars, if not more, on an annual (riding season) basis." As an off road journalist and consultant, I have seen many communities around the country embrace the opportunity to economically recover by allowing All Terrain Vehicles (ATV's) legal access into their towns. OHV programs such as the ATV Trail Patrol have been refined over time to educate visiting recreationists on how to use the trails responsibly. Vacation dollars have financed additional law enforcement and trail education in many communities just like Waynoka. The key is to support the trail patrol, signage, kiosks, maps and law enforcement over time to create a well remembered and respected tourist environment. Advertise local businesses on kiosks and the back side of maps to remind visitors what the town has to offer. Recent ATV trail map revisions reflect a sincere effort on Waynoka?s part to make the trail safer and less conflicting with local traffic. Waynoka is moving in the right economic direction. Don't turn away from this exciting change in local history. Be a part of Waynoka's next economic solution. Dan Delasantos OHV Journalist Waynoka Trail Consultant

1: REAR ARM COMP. 33449-001 $330.09 2: BEARING,CYL.#17 (U49) 360506-001 $11.85 3: OIL SEAL,OSO-TYPE (35-41-8) 358861-001 $5.11 4: COVER,THRUST 1 (U49) 24139-001 $11.86 5: WASHER,PLATE (2VM) ,(5NG1) 1074-001 $5.45 6: BUSH (U49) 22140-001 $33.62 7: SHAFT,PIVOT (U49) 22135-001 $39.31 8: WASHER,PLATE (U49) 347292-001 $4.38 9: NUT,SELF-LOCKING ,(5NG1) 363498-001 $7.75 10: SEAL, GUARD (U49) 22137-001 $5.77 11: STOPPER,MAIN STAND (U49) 284392-001 $2.94 12: SUPPORT,CHAIN (U49) 301119-001 $11.73 13: BOLT, FLANGE (8X40) 363957-001 $1.21 14: ARM,RELAY (U49) 14006-001 $328.05 15: BUSH,FORMED (U49) 349524-001 $4.38 16: OIL SEAL ,(5NG1) 899-001 $2.86 17: COLLAR (U49) 350573-001 $6.69 18: BOLT (U49) 343744-001 $6.86 19: NIPPLE,GREASE (USA) 361145-001 $3.39 20: WASHER,PLATE (U49) 346935-001 $2.55 21: NUT,SELF-LOCKING (5PA1) 346476-001 $4.42 22: ROD,CONNECTING 1 (U49) 33450-001 $56.33 23: BUSH,FORMED (U49) 349523-001 $4.38 24: COVER,THRUST 2 (U49) 293059-001 $7.35 25: COLLAR (U49) 350572-001 $5.77 27: BOLT (U49) 343665-001 $4.42 28: WASHER,PLATE (U49) 347086-001 $3.31 29: WASHER, PLATE (U49) 347054-001 $2.44 31: BOLT (U49) 343720-001 $4.66 34: COVER (U49) 33451-001 $133.14 35: BOLT,FLANGE(8AB) UR CA 5SCL 363954-001 $0.95 36: GUARD, CHAIN (U49) 22138-001 $20.39 37: BOLT (U49) 364496-001 $0.45 38: WASHER, PLATE (6TA) ,(5LY1) 788-001 $0.35 39: NUT,U ,(USA) 4804-001 $0.86 40: WASHER (6TA) (YMUS) 358100-001 $0.46 41: NUT,U (5NX1) 4954-001 $2.35 42: COLLAR (U49) 22139-001 $9.74

+1 on what he said.. For 165 psi I would run straight av gas. 100 octane should be ok.

Hmmm, I've had the razors and holeshots, don't like em, they don't hook that well. Unless you ride mud turf tamers are inexpensive and hook like glue.

Yep, you need some porting to match the pipes....

Well, back in the day large 4 barrel carbs were not available. People use the deuces and stuff now for nostalgia sake, not performance. No carbs make more power than the big carbs you can buy today.

Foam filters are fine. They filter as well or better than a gauze type (K&N) I posted this earlier... From another website... All-OffRoad - Tech-Tips Air Filter Maintenance We've had several people request information on air filter maintenance. Performing routine maintenance on the air filter is really pretty simple: 1. Remove the filter. 2. Separate the inner and outer elements, assuming you have two elements. 3. Immerse each element in a pan of cleaning solvent and wash it. 4. Squeeze the element to remove the excess solvent. Be careful not to wring or twist the element or it could rip or crack. 5. Gently wash element with warm soapy water, removing all of the dirt. 6. Rinse with clean water and squeeze the element to remove all excess water. 7. Inspect for tears or cracks in the foam or seams. Replace the elements if damaged. 8. Hang elements to dry. 9. Re-oil each element. This is the trickiest part. I usually do it one of two ways. The first is to put the element into a clear plastic bag and pour some oil in. Slowly work the oil into the element making sure to cover the entire element. Finally, carefully squeeze out any excess oil. The other option is to skip the plastic bag and put on a pair of disposable gloves. Pour some oil on the element and work it in. Repeat until the entire element is covered. As above, carefully squeeze out any excess oil. 10. Reinstall the filter elements. Apply a thin coat of grease to the sealing surface of the assembly before installing. Pretty simple eh? If you're like most folks a couple of questions come to mind. What kind of solvent should be used? What kind of oil should be used? For the solvent, I've used just about everything -- gasoline, kerosene, special filter cleaners, etc. For the oil, again, I've used just about everything including motor oil and "filter" oil. I've even heard that chainsaw bar oil is good (it's tacky and cheap -- gee sounds familiar) but I've never tried it. Currently I use UNI Foam Filter Oil. This stuff is about as sticky and gooey as it gets. Anyway, I decided to ask the pros what they thought. How did I decide whom to turn to? Well, UNI filters were used this year by all factory Yamahas -- Henry, Dowd, etc.; as well as Team Suzuki -- off road Champ Rodney Smith, Hatch and Edmondson; Team Kawasaki, including Jeffro; and a few others like ATV champ Tim Farr, 4-stroke champ Lance Smail, and desert pro Ty Davis! But more importantly I have used them for years. In fact one of the first things I do to a new bike is replace the stock filter with a UNI filter, usually before my first ride. So with this in mind, we contacted the folks at UNI Filter, Inc., specifically Tony Shumaker, V.P. Marketing, and asked him a few questions. AOR: "Most people, such as myself, have used gasoline at one time or another to clean their foam filter. Other than the obvious dangers involved, are there any other problems with using gasoline, such as deteriorating the foam in the filter?" Tony: "Gasoline generally won't hurt a quality filter element, but as you suggested the liability is such that we no longer suggest its use." AOR: "What do you recommend, something like kerosene?" Tony: "Kerosene is ok. We recommend any "grease cutting" detergent or any cleaner that won't hurt your hands. Of course we recommend our own UNI filter cleaner because it is biodegradable so it won't hurt you or the environment." AOR: "Many riders have been using motor oils such as standard 10W-40 to oil their filters for years. Are there really any problems in doing so?" Tony: "Motor oil works well, but it won't work very long. If you are prepping the filter on Thursday and racing on Saturday it will be fine. If you prep in May and park the bike until July you will have trouble. Motor oil "drains off" of the element leaving spots of the foam "dry" where dirt will go through. "Foam filter oil" will stay on the element for months (years?) and the element will still be moist to the touch. Remember, the oil stops the dirt, the filter just holds the oil! WD40 is too thin, don't use it on a foam filter. The desired process is for the dirt to stick to the oily foam strand. Then the piece of dirt soaks up some oil and the 15th piece of dirt will stick to the first piece of dirt, then the 35th piece sticks to the 15th and so on. With a light oil there isn't enough moisture for that to happen, so the dirt will eventually go through. Bummer." AOR: "Wow, I didn't realize that about using motor oil. Some individuals claim that oiling the filter when it's slightly damp makes it easier to distribute the oil throughout the filter element. What, if any, problems are there in doing this?" Tony: "Never oil a wet filter!!! The oil traps the moisture between the foam and the oil and the moisture will rot the filter. The foam will start to flake within a few months. Always be sure that the filter has been rinsed thoroughly to remove the cleaner, then let it dry completely before oiling. There are many good oils that go on thin and thicken-up after the carrier has evaporated... Speaking of oiling.... too much is not better. Saturate the filter to be sure that every strand is covered, then squeeze out all of the excess, you cannot squeeze out too much. (Pouring an "X" of oil on a wadded-up filter and trying to massage it in will almost always miss spots that will pass dirt later.) The element needs to be only moist to the touch. Too much oil causes drops of oil to be drawn into the engine causing it to run poorly (oil won't combust!) so it acts like it is restricted. This is not good!

Need to check the carb sync. The new idle screws would not affect the carbs enough to richen the mixture.

Foam Filters inner or outer should never be run "dry" Sand & dirt will go right thru them. From another website... All-OffRoad - Tech-Tips Air Filter Maintenance We've had several people request information on air filter maintenance. Performing routine maintenance on the air filter is really pretty simple: 1. Remove the filter. 2. Separate the inner and outer elements, assuming you have two elements. 3. Immerse each element in a pan of cleaning solvent and wash it. 4. Squeeze the element to remove the excess solvent. Be careful not to wring or twist the element or it could rip or crack. 5. Gently wash element with warm soapy water, removing all of the dirt. 6. Rinse with clean water and squeeze the element to remove all excess water. 7. Inspect for tears or cracks in the foam or seams. Replace the elements if damaged. 8. Hang elements to dry. 9. Re-oil each element. This is the trickiest part. I usually do it one of two ways. The first is to put the element into a clear plastic bag and pour some oil in. Slowly work the oil into the element making sure to cover the entire element. Finally, carefully squeeze out any excess oil. The other option is to skip the plastic bag and put on a pair of disposable gloves. Pour some oil on the element and work it in. Repeat until the entire element is covered. As above, carefully squeeze out any excess oil. 10. Reinstall the filter elements. Apply a thin coat of grease to the sealing surface of the assembly before installing. Pretty simple eh? If you're like most folks a couple of questions come to mind. What kind of solvent should be used? What kind of oil should be used? For the solvent, I've used just about everything -- gasoline, kerosene, special filter cleaners, etc. For the oil, again, I've used just about everything including motor oil and "filter" oil. I've even heard that chainsaw bar oil is good (it's tacky and cheap -- gee sounds familiar) but I've never tried it. Currently I use UNI Foam Filter Oil. This stuff is about as sticky and gooey as it gets. Anyway, I decided to ask the pros what they thought. How did I decide whom to turn to? Well, UNI filters were used this year by all factory Yamahas -- Henry, Dowd, etc.; as well as Team Suzuki -- off road Champ Rodney Smith, Hatch and Edmondson; Team Kawasaki, including Jeffro; and a few others like ATV champ Tim Farr, 4-stroke champ Lance Smail, and desert pro Ty Davis! But more importantly I have used them for years. In fact one of the first things I do to a new bike is replace the stock filter with a UNI filter, usually before my first ride. So with this in mind, we contacted the folks at UNI Filter, Inc., specifically Tony Shumaker, V.P. Marketing, and asked him a few questions. AOR: "Most people, such as myself, have used gasoline at one time or another to clean their foam filter. Other than the obvious dangers involved, are there any other problems with using gasoline, such as deteriorating the foam in the filter?" Tony: "Gasoline generally won't hurt a quality filter element, but as you suggested the liability is such that we no longer suggest its use." AOR: "What do you recommend, something like kerosene?" Tony: "Kerosene is ok. We recommend any "grease cutting" detergent or any cleaner that won't hurt your hands. Of course we recommend our own UNI filter cleaner because it is biodegradable so it won't hurt you or the environment." AOR: "Many riders have been using motor oils such as standard 10W-40 to oil their filters for years. Are there really any problems in doing so?" Tony: "Motor oil works well, but it won't work very long. If you are prepping the filter on Thursday and racing on Saturday it will be fine. If you prep in May and park the bike until July you will have trouble. Motor oil "drains off" of the element leaving spots of the foam "dry" where dirt will go through. "Foam filter oil" will stay on the element for months (years?) and the element will still be moist to the touch. Remember, the oil stops the dirt, the filter just holds the oil! WD40 is too thin, don't use it on a foam filter. The desired process is for the dirt to stick to the oily foam strand. Then the piece of dirt soaks up some oil and the 15th piece of dirt will stick to the first piece of dirt, then the 35th piece sticks to the 15th and so on. With a light oil there isn't enough moisture for that to happen, so the dirt will eventually go through. Bummer." AOR: "Wow, I didn't realize that about using motor oil. Some individuals claim that oiling the filter when it's slightly damp makes it easier to distribute the oil throughout the filter element. What, if any, problems are there in doing this?" Tony: "Never oil a wet filter!!! The oil traps the moisture between the foam and the oil and the moisture will rot the filter. The foam will start to flake within a few months. Always be sure that the filter has been rinsed thoroughly to remove the cleaner, then let it dry completely before oiling. There are many good oils that go on thin and thicken-up after the carrier has evaporated... Speaking of oiling.... too much is not better. Saturate the filter to be sure that every strand is covered, then squeeze out all of the excess, you cannot squeeze out too much. (Pouring an "X" of oil on a wadded-up filter and trying to massage it in will almost always miss spots that will pass dirt later.) The element needs to be only moist to the touch. Too much oil causes drops of oil to be drawn into the engine causing it to run poorly (oil won't combust!) so it acts like it is restricted. This is not good!

While we are on the subject how about PWK 28 style for 60 a piece ? Check these out to see if they will fit

If the shop doing your port work is any good they can tell you what you need.

Save your pics to a service like www.photobucket.com Can you take some better shots of these? Doesn't really look lean to me. As was stated before was the ports properly prepped before the engine was reassembled? How much piston to bore clearance?

Can't see the pics... This is the error message

If the stator plate comes loose you have big problems, and how is this related to key vs plate dissussion? The Pro-design is a nice piece and if you need to be able to adjust the timing from a standard 3, 4, or 7 degrees keys provide then by all means use it. I would check the actual timing vs the etched numbers on the plate though. Wow, if a key was that far off the flywheel wouldn't sit straight on the crank and would wobble and vibrate like hell. Damn, thats a scare tatic if I ever read one...LOL You do know the key (stock or offset) just locates the flywheel when its installed, it does not hold the flywheel in position.