Bansh-eman

hey dave that corning isulation you use isnt made with fiberglass in it is it? or you run just standard fiberglass insulation? to the guy askin about how much to cram in there... you dont cram it in there... when you open the silencer there is a metal tube that has holes puched in it.. you wrap the packing and use some packaging tape and wrap it nice and tight.. dont over lap the tape so there is tape coving the entire thing.. you just wrap it a little all the way down nice and tight to hold it on there...

well if your getting spark, start checking your carbs like Dave said. jets clogged? carbs synced? i just dont think its electrical. but either way your due for a new topend once you get this other problem worked out

try doing what he said... or if you want to go to radio shack and get the male/female things crimp and soilder them and push the rubber boots over them to keep them clean... you dont need a special connector for them to work

when we raced it was constantly swapping tires and rims. we had a metal thing that covvered the whole tire instead of the stap and it hardly took any air to get them to seat with that thing... really see the differant when you put a smaller tire on a wider rim and you cant get the side walls to move very much.. strap it and they pop right on

try it... it wont take the same amount of pressure to seat it... the tires will swell toward the rim more now becasue they cant go up

it doesnt sound like an electrical problem to me... althought that doesnt rule out spark. how old are your plugs? are the contacts clean? have you fouled the plugs? are the nipples screwed on tight? is the gap set right?

i got a TAG riser that came with my T2 setup... i no longer use it.. probly bumps it about and inch and a half or so... if your interested let me know... it bolts right up to the stock stem.

if you switch caps does the problem follow the cap?

320 mains 27.5 pilots Needle 4th clip

yup, when your low on compression its hard to start them. and you ruled out spark casue it runs when you pull it.

if you put a ratchet strap on the tire you shouldnt have to put a ton of air.

sounds like your ready to rebuild the top end...

get your self a meter stick. assuming you have adjustable arms... set your pitch and toe to even front and back some guys run -1 in the front but i like mine even set your caster /camber to be minus one on top so they should be / \ very slightly EDIT: oh the ezest part to messure is from center of tire to center of tire... unless you have an adjustable stick you can run from sidewall to sidewall.

actually the teeth can make a diferance of how many link you run if you have some way off from stock. just buy the 20 dollar chain break. and get the chain on there with the fewest amount of links you can fit without it being over tightened. the chain will stretch after your first ride and sag some. EDIT: oh another note... if your changing your chain change your sprokets too. using old sprokets will wear out your chain faster. also use steels. i have had nothing but problems using aluminum sprokets. ripping off teeth or bending the tips of them

if your leak is at the bead, do like bansheekid said and clean the rim and tire. then take a ratcheting tie strap and wrap it around the tire and crank down on it. when you air up the tire it will help the tire pressurize towards the rims and set the bead instead of letting it inflate upwards.

not sure if the R6 plates are the same, i know that the FZR 1000 plates fit perfect however... might look into those... i dont have the time to search the part numbers but any dealer can get them for you...

jesus you never thought there were as many cock suckers on PS as there are... i made the same post trying to find this guy to gather some ideas for an 80's style job and all i have got wasnt faggots bitching that i want to steal or copy the dudes idea... thanks for the help finding him dave... doesnt look like he is very active. so hopfully he will get back to me... u know anyone that knows him on a personall level that u can get ahold of so i can talk to him soon to have my final ideas set for mike to wrap my shit? thnx

you might have better luck on planetsand

you will be ok getting them ported. let the builder know what you plan on running. the T-5 responed better to porting then T-6 do so if you plan on changing them follow through to get the max gain out of the porting.

yup thats the guy, his 14mil is green with the same design on it... i know its not wrapped... im getting mine wrapped. but i need more picts of it....

hey guys i was wondering if anyone know whos bike this is or if u have some more picts of it....i know JT posted the picts from his trip and thats where this one came from... the guy was in Silver Lake like 2 months ago... i know its a shot in the dark but maybe ill get lucky... if anyone know of a bike that looks similar please send me the picts. i want to get my plastics wrapped with this look but need some more shots

drop them in a bag or small bucket and let them sit while you remove everthing else... you dont need to soak them over night. just make sure they are covered with fluid while soaking that way there isnt dry spots on them...

agreed that over time they will become better and more common, but as of now... not a chance in hell. dudes looking right now not in 2 years so ill have to stick with the post that they arnt worth the time or trouble until they fix them... best bang for your buck is cubs.

super cubs are shit, the time put into them to get running like a bat out of hell is rediculose mikes runs great, how ever ask him how much of a mother it was getting it to that point... to get a few extra ponies over a cub isnt worth it.

do like ben said, i sent works emails several months ago when getting my rear shock revavled. never heard back... calle them and got it shipped to them same day.. you want to try and aviod the old guy.. i cant remeber his name, he will talk your fukin ear off...