Bansh-eman

u got a pm

bump... 91 did you get my pm? i didnt get a response back

$175 shipped lower 48 states. paypal only when u pay the fees. remember its cut for a pingle...

when you tighten the strap how far are the tires from the rim? are they holding air but not popping over the bead? of so you can bounce them and that can do the trick some times

with my new paintjob im getting i will not be putting that fukin sticker on my plastics ! the rangers can kiss my ass! im going to either buy one of the niffty little mount that bolt to the swinger or just rig on up my self.

its very possible. a month of lettin the gas and oil sit in the bowl will no dought begin to seperate.

its more then likey your floats like you said but i had way too big of pilots in my carbs at one point and they would over flow too. i switched them bak and it stopped.. could have just been coincidence becasue that shouldnt cause it.

josh, as with most type of offroad toys your want to chane the suspension as one of your first steps. then pipes. then look into an adjustable timing plate. VF3 reeds. Coolhead. Dyna ignition. Stroker crank, carbs ,pistons, new clutch with a lockup, override. the list ogs on and on. these arnt in order persay but they are a pretty good to get you going in th right direction... the list is endless.

from the switch you need the yellow and blue ( high beams and tail light ) on one side of your switch, and the yellow with red stripe on the other ( your auxillery power ) from the lights your need yellow and black. yellow is high beams black is ground. all the others can be disconnected. i put a 2 stage toggle swicth on my bike and removed the on/off switch and replaced it with a CR250 kill switch.

a 1-5 nuet down means the neutral has been moved so its no longer between 1st and 2nd gear. to do the over ride they cut your shift drum and your tranny gears. deepending if its a normal over ride or a dunable there will be springs added to help you shift up and down. the ratio will be the same. your using the same gears just altered to help them shift under full load without the clutch. once you start getting into bigger hp numbers you should look at a lockup. after you have a lockup it becomes a mother to shift. this is where a dunable would suit nicely.

im assuming its GYT-R , it came on my bike when i got it a few years ago. it had full GYT-R skid plates that i sold. so im guessing its the same thing. either way its a nice aluminum bumper. no dents. few marks from hitting bushes and what not. make me a reasonable offer. your in canada right?

hey guys i need a stock tank, dont need petcock cover tank or any of that just the tank and mounting equip if u got it. if its been cut for a pingle thats fine casue im actually using for that... let me know what u got

the jugs have to be ported to change the timings. as far as the pistons its all about rod length. talk to firehead on here. he is in the middle of building a tripple too he can probly answer alot of your questions...

the guys full of it.. like said they are to clear the clutch arm.

are boobs good? sorry couldnt resist, just watch Joe Dirt

bump bump still got it

shippng it shouldnt cause it come to 1200 bones by any means... i shipped mine half way across the country and it cost me 95 bucks.. so add a little for international your still under 1200 bucks after the work is done... EDIT: look into a few builder in Mich area... would be cheaper to ship there too...

yup i was going to say the same thing... if you have an airbrush you can touch it up and really make it look real.

you can change the gearing to smooth it out some but your still going to have a power band to some extent.. its just going to move it up or down. like Nyuk said list whats done,

canada? not a clue. if your willing to send it to the states thee are a ton... Jeff at FAST, Jim at Passion , Kevin at Herr Jugs Racing ... the list goes on and on.. Edit: any reason you dont try it your self? 2 strokes are very easy! get a clymers manuel and start looking in it.. shows you step by step

they are smoking it! you can have a builder do it for a few hundred bucks.

Try Kevin at Herr Jugs Racing does killer work, very good prices. let him know i sent you, he will hook your motor up ! www.herrjugsracing.com

Few things, first ill be a dick this is not in the correct forum its good that your looking for everyones best interest, just keep in mind right now is the time of year that your not going to get quick turn arounds. this is when EVERYONE is sending shit out to get rebuilt. my motor has been gone for a while now too. businesses get jammedup man, you just got o have faith in them. you felt confinent when you went with them, dont let this one thing turn you away. for all you now hat thing is going to be a monster once you get it back.

are you looking at cars or atv? dont forget about crower mike

for the link its all about the riding you do... if you hill shoot or dune id stick with a link. will help with the whoops and take some of the beating off the shock. if your running flat drags.. a link might be for you.. will keep the power to the ground but is very stiff with those shaws... just got to kinda weigh the pros and cons and see which will suit you better. as far as drag arms. you wanting to know the thickness of the metal or what? alot of guys use .065 for drag arms and .120 for dune mx or anything else...