Bansh-eman

what notch is your needle sitting on? and what needle are you running?

i love the 421 cheetah with the trinity pipes

what elevation you riding at? for sea level to 1500 a good starting point is 320 mains, 27.5 pilots, needle middle clip, 1.5 to 2 turns on the air screw

remeber when you build a motor that theres is three parts that need to match up. Carbs, Porting ( both intake and exhaust) and Pipes. If all are not matched to work with one another, then which ever one is more restricivewill determine how much ( or how little) of a power gain your going to get. if your building a drag bike and running 110 you can easily run 18 or 19 domes. get a compression tester and see what your hitting with those domes. 21ccc domes are barley smaller then stock head domes are. once you bump that compression some and drop that dyna and reeds on there you will see a huge differance on how that bke runs.

when my bike was all stock cept pipes and airbox lid removed. i was running 320 mains and 27.5 pilots. you should be in the ballpark. do a plug chop an go from there.

when you say there is oil coming from under the plugs. you mean like its running out while riding? try spraying some soapy water on the head and starting the bike up... look for bubbles. if you got an actual leak you dont want to keep riding that thing. if you have an actual leak that thing would have poppd more then likley by now. something tells me your not leaking oil, and its probly residue from whn you changed plugs or some premix dripping on the head from filling the tank or something like that

the billet one is fine. i have seen many bikes that the chains snapped and the three bolts where not effected at all. the velocity of the chain will casue the aluminum to either break or will bite into the chain slowing it and making it bind up. all in all the case saver is a must either way you go, as long as you maintian your bike like you should, you should break a sproket before you brake a chain. they are much weaker then a chain is. when i chain snaps its most of the time becasue the chain is old and worn out, or you tried to rigged it up afterbreaking apart rather then spending the money and getting a new one.

IDK Dave i kinda agree with both side a little, no PS didnt sanction the event. However its the big name guys from the site that hold the event. Sure they are not tied to PS however this happens every year and it begins and is organized on the PS forums. However on the other hand Charlie didnt have any input on organizing it either so I dont think Charlie should be held responsible for it. But we do know who held the event. Im sure if the law wanted to fix this, they would go knocking on his door.

any quality oil is fine. Yamalube 36:1 is what me a several others run.

pingels arnt an item you will normally find used. you might have to just buy a new one.

the guy asked what the differance was so i googled it and that came up

bump

click on my controls at the top and find your edit sig botton, paste in there

Pulled from Dirtrider.net: Mineral based injector oils usually have a different dilutent makeup. Basically they have to control the pour point to keep the paraffin content of the oil from compromising injector flow at lower temperatures. Lower priced oils tend to have have higher paraffin contents and need greater volumes of dilutent to control low temp flow. This isn't to say 2R can't be used in an injector, it's more a case of consideration for these issues may not have been specifically addressed during the design phase. 2-S is more of a injector oil for a little PW50.

i run Yamalube. 36:1.

your going to loose a little topend with that single carbs setup

what size domes are you running that u clam to be at 185 psi in a stock crank?

who ever told you that is a dumbass. the plate is about the worst route you can go, it give your motor more places to leak and blow that thing up. your best bet is to get a cool head and cut the domes for the stroker. then have your jugs ported for te new crank to match the porting timings

the rattling is probly your clutch... which side is it louder on? also 90 psi on a rebuild is very low ever wthout the rings not being seated. they should be higher then that from the get go.

before you waste your money on painting them make sure you cut them first. if you have abunch of play and they bounce around your paints going to crack and start peeling. also if your looking at getting some major detailed shit done, painting might not be your best option money wise. look into wrapping them if thats the case.

oh SNAP son! you got burned!

bump

im having mine painted right now, paint will last depending on how you tret your bikes. also if you dont have cut fenders and they bounce around and flex alot they will crack and peel. as long as you dont flip it or hit trees and shit they will last a while.

4 strokes dont NOT rev as high as 2 strokes. period. there is no differance in new or old. its still the same principals.when i raced our 4 stroks turned between 4-5k rpms. our 2 strokes any where from 9-10k or 13-14k depending on which track we where riding on

you talking about a standard over ride or dunebale?