Bansh-eman

hey brian if you post the pict using www.imageshack.us you dont have to resize it will do it for you

metaltech makes good product they just have a shity warranty.

well if thats the case you might as well build a 18mil tripple you know the 10mil is going to get old soon too and your going to be right back where you are now.

not to be a dick but this is more suited for the appearance forum...

Like the title says, I need to get ahold of a Rear Brake Rotor and a Swinger Pivot bolt with the nut and washer. threads HAVE to be undamaged and the bolt can not look like you beat the shit out of it. let me know what you got

ok got the bolt new today, now i only need a rear rotor, if you got one for sale let me know almost got these parts replaced !

yea im starting from dry lines so its going to be a pain... the pressure thing work good but i dont have an extra cap. and i dont feel like sitting there all day messing with it, so ima grab a mityvac and be done with it

Awsome guy to deal with! Sold him my cylinders and pistons, paid right away. He also sent me a BRAND NEW thumb throttle when my parts got stolen. If your not doing business with this guy your missing out!

its been since june 29th, problem is he was supposed to to get parts chromed for me. it wasnt parts i sold him. ill have to give the postal inspector a call and see what he says, i just have a feeling it going to be the same as the rest of the responses iv gotten so far. Edit: also i still need to buy a rear rotor and all the pins for holding the brakepads in the calipers front and back. let me know what you got.

i need to go pick one up too. im really not going to feel like messing with my brakes once its back together... what did you pay for yours at autozone?

there are tons of differant dynos, there is a guy that has a trailer dyno he brings to glamis. its in rollers, but i think Snop uses a crank dyno.

RZ, i want to say he uses a stock cdi but im not 100% on that

wish i had an answer, sorry man i got no clue.

hey chase, i know charles. he's a good guy. send him a pm and see whats up. he dosent come on here every night so it might take a few days to get ahold of him... he will send you the money back if he gets the stickers, he's not the kind of guy to try and rip someone off. he's a good cat.

lol

still need to get my hands on a rear brake rotor. let me know if anyone has got one they would like to sale.

yea see if he will fork over the boost bottle copy so we can lay that fuker to rest for the guys that are optimistic still

ill still remain with they are ment to clear the clutch arm, and they just so happen to add .25 hp at max rpm cant really constitute the .25 as being made to make power :shrug: thnx for finding the info though we have been waiting for ever lol edit: hey you get free dyno runs right? if you do do use all the favor and set the boost bottle to rest so we can close the book on it

200... the guy im going with is a member on here.. his prices are not the lowst by any means but his work is top notch. i got a set of lower motor mounts from him a few months back not realizing it was him, and they are very nice. edit: chroming is one of those thngs where you get what you pay for ... you pay cheap you get cheap. there is not good chroming thats cheap. period

thats actually good info to know, thnx Snop althought with that small of an amount i wouldnt really make the claim that it adds power.

it shouldnt move i any direction, if if moves side to side your axle is loose. if it move forward and backwards on the axle its becasue your splines are being worn down in either the hub or the axle. more then likely the hub becasue its softer metal

you go out the 67 to the 76 and take that all the way out? dude thats worse then just sticking to the 8. its all one lane and windy in the mountains. once you get ovr the hills on the 8 its smooth sailing from there

you would be pretty close... compression should be around 155. I'd run 50/50 there but other guys are comfortable taking it much higher in compression. i just find it to be cheap insurance. Until you got an actual compression test it would be hard to a what octane you need to run

you see the name dlnoss a few posts up? thats the guy that makes the noss heads his site is http://www.nossmachine.com/ you can also get them at FAST and other builders.

not only is the noss better but he is a site sponser. if your going to support anyone make it someone that contributes back rather then a big name company.