LIM_Whiteboy4life

I was wondering if it would be hard to make a grill kit. I will try to explain a lil here, The front nose piece vents and tank side vents with a matching grill or any custom design.. numbers ext.... :shrug: I was looking at it and been thinking of a way to mount them but any bolt is kinda distant from the vents. The front nose piece could maybe mount to the two bolts on the nose and the tank vent either bolted from the ones under the bars or the gas tank bolts...

No not at all... as soon as the problem started i stoped check the fluid and told everyone that the bike is done for today and limped it back to the truck. It rode fine as long as i didnt get into it. I rode an 86' YZ 100 2 stroke for the rest of the day awsome bike lol

Eh no big whoop. I just thought i could add some more FAQ issues to the clutch problem/symptoms and figure it out. I replaced the OE spring bolts with stainless ones w/ washers, longer also... helps make it an easier install. Well they backed out and caused the slipping issue, so im curing it overnight with some blue loctite and see how it holds up.

Hmm im in the same boat sorta... lookin for a tire that slides but hooks in a straight line. Mine are too tall to slide and just wants to play 2 wheeler with 450 arms and Gforce axle and all.... Im thinkin 20 front 19 rear good handling size? dunno on what type of tire... total thread jack my bad.... :ninja:

I would shift into the next gear (clutchless shifting) and pin it and all i would get is rev's and no pull... same in every gear.

Lets see who can guess what the cause is.. lol (only way to keep positive thoughts... ) Ok i was racing a RM125 and a tired CR250 kickin ass of course... anyway i deside to get them out of the hole with some 2nd gear launches. First time went great put a quad length on the 125 before i hit 3rd... anyway second race i shift/slip/shift/slip... and the clutch cover is pretty warm... almost too warm. I was doin the mistake of coasting with the clutch pulled in to a stop. Its making a rattling noise when the clutch is pulled in and it only grabs when the clutch is close to full release. The clutch holds until the power kicks in. Its a Barnett Kevlar clutch with 6HD's with 20+ hours on it and i use belray 80w. EDIT: the clutch is properly adjusted and i inspect it every other ride and change the fuilds as frequently as i can.

This is so freakin stoopid that i kicked my dog in a fit of rage and shot my grandma in the knee cap cause im from the streets... But serial.... i read 5 words and i felt ill... stay in school kid and lay off the weeds eh?

i won black ones standard length this week... for 36 bucks shipped. Hope i didnt steal these from someone

just pull the whole hub and flip it lmao... its buttass ugly but ive seen it done on a drag bike

Mine doesnt like to run low on fuel (maybe pluged up petcock... too lazy) so i keep it topped off every 30-45min of riding. Hard to believe 5 hours on a tank... wow

Went to community college for a year for Diesel tech/welding. Worked for a Site utilities/Pump station cleaning company as a diesel mechanic/deliverybitch (lifting plate tamps by yourself sucks...) so i quit. Worked for another site utilities company (friend's step dad is co-owner) riggin and really laying pipe (for all the posers out there) for hydro's and drainage. Now i work as a welder/fitter subcontractor for BAE, Northrop Grumman, NOB, and Newport News shipyards. Its ok but i am thinkin about joining the military....

I just cant get past the point of missing a 6th gear.... I know there is 1-3+456, 1-4+56, 1-5+6 but as always the strongest one is the 1-5 neutral down or so ive heard. The 1-6 overrides are neat but also the most skeptic of them all. I would like to test all of them and see whats for me but its not likely lol :biggrin:

I use Dennis Kirk cause they have everything RMATV has, and more EDIT: here a link to there oils and such... Clicky

Nope thats my tater gun target...lol, its a new house so... that lil 1/4 court slab is my burnout box There is a shop for all these projects but im not taking pics of the inside... its still a wreck and messy since we just tossed everything inside during the move, i can take outside pics and just pics of the projects lol i dont want to get embarrassed... :ermm:

daily: 85' Fullsize bronco (stock) Sony xplode deck, 6" front, 6x9"s rear, memphis 12" sub Project 1: 75' bronco No were near stock but i rolled it... :: Project 2: 63' Ford Fairlane 500 coupe currently has a modified orignal 260V8 with hooker super comp jethot headers, mild cam, intake, 4bbl, 10:1 flat tops, ladder bars, ford 9", 4.30 gears, detroit locker. Future plans is a World 600 cube Big block, stang II front end, JW Billet powerglide (900hp rated), Full back half 4 link and tubbed Project 3: 74 harley sportster 1200 (basket case) Project 4: 60-70's style triumph chopper(basket case) :shoothead: too many projects.... Here's pics of the 75 bronco, if you want pics of anything else listed leme kno...

Or dump a lil dough and get a round house or a double roller billet carrier like this one... dont worry about the cat on crack :biggrin:

No, What will affect (effect) (w/e) compression is milling down a stock head, smaller (more) or larger (less) CC domes for a cool/noss head, Porting ( amount of work done and what type of port it is affects in diff ways ) and engine wear will cause compression to decrease.... Like ABC's man learn them well grasshopper lol :ninja:

I would Highly recomend there 2 inch thick Off-Road Catolog it covers everything, ATV/dirtbikes/side by sides :beer:

250W Hi Power lighting stator : http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_cata...mp;skuId=201291 DENNIS KIRK THE REAL ONE STOP SHOP

all you have to do is get adjustable upper A-arms but the camber helps some in cornering since tires will big sidewalls "fold" but with some camber the tire doesnt fold onto the sidewall = more front grab.... but there is such a thing as too much camber. YFZ arms normally do that anyway... what happens when you put parts on a quad that its not built for hope this helps :beer:

I think one of my bores are ovaled and im getting very early signs of piston slap. How do i know? well Im getting a tick until it warms up and the whole metal expans theroy cures it but how long can that last? lol. If anyone else has had piston slap before tell about what you heard, how it ran, ect.... might help. :beer:

Alrighty, Ima re soak the fibres, put new springs in, and keep lookin around for what could be ticking. Thanks :beer:

left and right motion, this tick is really annoying me, no loss in power and it goes away after it warms up.... im puzzeled, there is another thing that was on my mind, behind the clutch hub gear there is a piece of sheet metal, im not sure what its for but thats the only thing i can think of at the moment maybe its rubbing, and i noticed scratch marks on the hub "fingers" and the inside of the cover is smooth no scratches.... :shoothead: stumped....

Well i drain my fluids and pop my clutch cover off to inspect and find out why i have a rev. deficent* (spl chk?) "Ticks" coming from under the cover. So im checking out stuff that might make the sound, kick starter, plastic gear on the water impellar blah blah blah... checks out fine then i start looking at the clutch assembly and looking for pieces on the bottom of it, nothing..... hmmm so i grab hold of the clutch and deside to turn it with my hand on the clutch hub and i notice some play between the hub gear and the clutch hub (apox 1/4" of play) so it looks like i need a new hub :: but there might be a quick fix by tightening the hub nut down but i dunno i need to take it apart and see what exactlly is going on under there