LIM_Whiteboy4life

Its always good to pull and clean the carbs. Check your fuel line's while your at it and if you notice the lines are kinda uneven from factory so if you run low on fuel it doesnt supply the carbs evenly until you gun it and sucks more fuel in so keep it filled up and/or redo your lines so there supplying both carbs evenly. Worked for me when it idled on one cylinder when it was on 1/4 tank or less.

best way to tell is change the fluid and coast in 4th gear then pin the throttle wide open and listen to the bike if it hits the powerband and you dont feel it kick in as usual. If the clutch slippage is mild it will rev smoke the clutch then grab when the rev's drop. basically a huge power loss... anyway the stock clutch is a POS i recomend the FAST, Tusk, or barnett for a new clutch tusk being the cheapest. Heavy duty springs help a lot but you will need pop eye forearms. :beer:

i will take a guess at it maybe 12k just reving and maybe 9500-10k in 6th but who's counting... be cool to see real number's off a tach

List your mods and your altitude because you dont want any cranky long time HQ'er to kick you in the junk.... did you see if you had a full tank of gas? they dont like to run low...

Um... just take the lid off and ride dont worry about rejetting. :beer:

Looks like that shee missed a shift or he's a tard..... There's a Video of a shee on here with bolt ons that ran a 9.6 @ 71mph forgot who it was tho....

Or go the same route with YFZ works triple rates with a revalved/sprung rear shock...... cant deside just yet

Since this is the setup im going with im wondering since i have to go with a longer shock when i put the YFZ arms on since the stockers are way short. Will the Elka triple rates have more shock rod lenght than the OEM YFZ shocks with the huge extention on the bottom end..... just wondering.... Im going the the elka link setup in the rear. Should be around the end of June when i get the setup on and ready to rip. :beer:

I have that exact setup take a look at mine.... want measurements? I have the best traction in dry grassy fields and trails are fine i never get hung up no matter how deep the ruts are just keep the speed up and it will glide over them on the skids lmao hardpack and dirt roads are the best for getting sideways and spining 4th gear....... so dont drag on hard pack with XCT.....

So let me get this straight, its better to have the shock angled slightly forward than straight up and down or the other way around. im cuttin the mounting ends off and rewelding them for a factory look and better clearance for the grease fittings. Im not trying to thread jack by any means but no one is in the chatroom to talk about it.....

This is why people should carry heat. At least stab the mofo with a pencil. If everyone could carry we would have less innocent* deaths. Just my opinion :shrug: I wouldnt go out without a bang not for anyone.

try this...... run the fuel lines with equal length since the stock route is way short on the right carb and the other is traveling sideways plus banshee's dont like to run on 1/4 a tank so top it off. I route mine around the left side of the left carb and zip tied it to the carb cap retainer so it doesnt touch the exhaust and route an equal length line to the other and make the T fitting as level as you can so it flows evenly. i had the same problem with mine and this fixed it... also check if the petcock is pluged or the lines are pluged.. :beer: good luck

no...... man flip the axle left to right.... the right tire on the left, and the left tire on the right side. L---------R................R---------L .......| <<<yoke...............| <<<yoke got it bro?

Dude if it has a solid rear end with leaf springs just flip the axel and bam it drives forward lol...... easy fix

What ever you do race on the street not like i did and raced on hard pack.......... the YFZ pulled around 5 lenghts and the LTR was about 1 1/2 but once it started hooking up around 4th gear it was even..... i had holeshot 22x11's rear and they had stock tires the LTR was stock and the YFZ was piped and maybe cammed...... damnit..... i bought his old YFZ arms for 25bucks tho hahaha

look under the fuel tank there is a little black box should be on the left unplug it and start it up. I had a back fire were it would not start at all and i ordered the TORS kit from fast, or any other place that is well known for there support to get rid of those nasty carb tops and drill/tap idle screws on the sides of the carb don't be scared to do it the best way is to take everything off the carb lay flat on a drill press and take it slow then tap it and file the screw base flat and about 2mm of material needs to be taken off with the file for the screws to hit the carb slide ramp. Unplug the box first and see if it runs the tors kit is just easier on the eyes and hands adjusting things. Good luck. :beer:

Oh crap i just noticed something i totally jacked scoot's thread..... fuck man im sorry. I feel like an ass. if i did... lol anyway thanks man but no credit for me it was the orginal owner's idea and i drink a totally diff beer but ima leave it there for his "mark" on this shee

Post a pic of it when your done :beer:

cut it like if you wanted to lay the can flat like a paper then wrap it around the rezzy.

lol sry i was in there for hours with no one in site. oh well im in here today tho come on in. complain about your hangover... :: (i like this smilie.)

What the crap people. Instead of raping threads why not do a quick chat.... faster. easier, and im all about lazyness come on.... ::

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r112/vi...ss/PDC_0014.jpg here is a dirty and lil rusty pic (havent washed yet)

I have a cut bush light beer can covering mine (looks cool) orginal owners idea so i left it but i drink miller eh oh well still looks cool it has one hose clamp you can hardly see on the top. plus alba likes to screw you on shipping and not informing.... anyway try your fav beer,drink, ect. just cut the tops off and split the can on the side you dont want to see then make it smaller by wrappin it on the rezzy and throw a hose clamp on it :beer:

Yeah that was the plan since i have traction issues now.... but it seems that he is selling his LTR but his buddy's still might have the YFZ's so we will see. I raced a stock shee the other day (weight of the rider was a big issue) and it made me upset.... why so slow from factory....gawd (i never rode a stock shee)

got mine for 3500 with a box of spare parts the orginal wheels and tires(newish) with T9 ITP wheels XCT holeshots front and mudmachines rear, T5's, and it was super clean.... spotless and still is :smile: