LIM_Whiteboy4life

Dude if you want something that is made for an ATV and bolts on as a complete kit and the probe is right at the head outlet like the first pic's posted. CLICK HERE look for temp. gauges on the left scroll bar. They even have a mount for it in a link under the product info. End of story and problems and questions... dont be a lazy dirtbag :woot:

http://www.jlatvproducts.com/catalog/index.htm neat little site i found....

guy needs to be shot, and that banshee needs to be put down and barried......... :shoothead:

ugh.... shoot me now

..... tisk tisk is firehead the only dude on here using the "2 step" feature?

Thought it would be cool to see some of the setups and different ideas yall came up with to use the features of the dyna. I plan on snaggin the software and messing with the "parking brake" limiter and change the set 2600rpm limit to like 6-7000rpm launch limiter and im wondering how do you guys ground out the purple/white (plugs into the tors carb tops) but my wire is green/yellow and it says once you ground the wire it sets the limiter and if its not grounded it acts normal, im thinking of using a button like a trans brake on a drag car or something, im wondering how the clutch style switches are setup?

um... take a gander at this lol http://www.dynaonline.com/english/atv_feat.htm nice info :biggrin:

Dont you mean the uppers bolt on with dustcaps w/o modification and the lowers have to be cut w/o dustcaps and the spacer is added to the opposite side of the cut to fill the void.. lol thats a big boo boo :ermm:

ITP T9 wheels with more than stock offset but i forgot. The rear measures 49" with the stock axel and im almost 50" in the front. enjoy :beer:

whats with the ricer fart muffler.... run that shit straight out... other than that, man that shee is sick keep us updated on how your keeping the front wheels on the ground :beer:

I wonder if he saw mine hahaha "drag mode" :biggrin:

There is two of them.... kinda looks like they have a smurk..... inner beast i guess haha

Might beable to see it idk if its as big as myspace profile background....

http://www.myspace.com/vic_the_mercyless Look at my background pic, into the rear fenders, look at the reflection the ground gave it, and tell me what you see?? I noticed it a few days ago thought you guys might like it? It looks like a face with no eyes, mummy like and very pale, like "The Ring" chick lmao. Tell me if you see what I see, or if not I must me losing my mind

Banana's...... only thing that ive found that works for arm pump. Eat before, after, and the rest of the day... zero pain. only thing you got to worry about is fuel and dialing your suspenion in instead of bitching :biggrin:

I might add that im running stock gearing and thats why I wanted to keep the 22"s on the rear to keep from over reving. I will bring both sets of tires(i got stockers also) and do a trial and error and see what works best. I will do everything that is stated above also, tire pressure, make the shocks as stiff as possible (preload, firmness, straps, ect.) i dont know about running struts on a stock swingarm... might do a wheel stand on me, but if i get the addiction it might change alot of things.... thanks for the info

I got my YFZ A-arms for 25 bucks :biggrin: but that is still a bargin.... wow i need those tie rods lol and some shocks and im set, maybe a brake upgrade (YFZ) later on... great info on the pricing. I dont know about using ebay... sucks because those are some nice prices...

So 16 5/8" eye to eye is a ideal length for aftermarket shocks for a YFZ A-arm swaped shee and compressed 11"?... (is that with the weight on the shocks?) this will be good info when i get my elka rec's made for my YFZ arms. I will do the measurement and fitment also. Im only looking at spending under 600 for shocks, and tie rods. Looks good man.. sits much higher than just a slaped together piece.

Well i talked to my pops and we aggreed on wearing his leather jacket, kevlar gloves, jean pants, boots, and a Snell approved full face helmet. Now.... should i be in the 9.6's maybe? this is with everything off the front end and maybe some straps on the front. My first passes are gonna be slow as balls coming out of the hole the first few times since i havent hit the street with the new clutch yet.

Well like its stated my dad says that it can break and fall apart on the track and its very unstable at high speeds down the track because of the short wheelbase. So he says i have to get full leathers and a shell helmet for me to ride (not for the track but my dad is freakin out) anyway ive raced it on the street before and i have no problems besides having tire slime in the front tires and it causes it to shake on the top of 6th gear. What i have to solve this are stock front tires/wheels. I plan on taking my skids, nerf bars, and front bumper off just for test and tune. i dont plan on racing professionally, just for fun and too see where the stock motor lies as of now. My mods are in my sig and i have 22" rears so i dont think i will top out too quickly before reaching the finish. Any input will be great.. thanks :thumbsup:

You might not know it but you just started a war..... lol anyway FAST, passion racing engines, RDZ (i think thats the name) just to name a few top selections. Just listen to who uses who and if someone has a bike setup like you want yours ask them who did the motor work and what mods they have. :beer:

How are the mounting brakets on the frame they looked tweeked when i was the wrecked pics?

wait you didnt install the idle screws???? holy shit man.... your gonna have to pull your carbs off and drill and tap the carbs..... the TORS had idle screws on the top of them when you pulled the TORS off you lost the idle thats why it came with idle screws.... did you get a drill bit and tap? if not here is a link to what you need http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/...=372&page=1 this includes everything you need to install the idle screws.... the reason it doesnt idle is because the slides it the bottom and there completely closed chokeing the motor and kills it. The idle screw enters the carb body and hits a little ramp that is on the slide so when it hits the ramp it keeps the slide from closing thus cutting the motor off. I bet that motor is getting loaded with fuel when you back off the throttle and bogs like hell.... hope this helps

You have to file down the carb were the idle screws go in since they cant reach all the way in to hit the slides w/o fileing. a good mix ratio is 32:1 to 40:1.

yeah new lines equal length with help just route the left line around the left side of the carb and zip tie the line to the "gold" retaining clip that holds the carb top still so it doesnt rub on the pipe for the right side carb just run one equal length straight down to it and try to get the "T" split line fitting as level as you can. I took a bunch of pics but my computer needs software for the attachment. Before you top it off pull the petcock valve off the tank and check the filter and see if it got any trash in it. then top her off and rip :beer: