LIM_Whiteboy4life

Also selling 19cc domes $40

Stock Crank no true/weld : $100 Virgin 64 bore jugs w/ stock pistons and head : $250 ^^crank is still in the case and no excessive play in the rods.

I just need the tops only but let me know what you have. Paypal is ready now. Thanks, Vic

well 2001stroker isnt on here anymore. Ive ridden his 10mil cheetah, its not a trail bike by all means, its an aggressive trail (wide 4-6th gear trails) and hillclimbs. You get into technical stuff with a +6 swing arm and pin it... your going into the trees (ive seen him do it lmao) Im personally building a 421 PV'ed cheetah now, and basically doing the same type of riding, but im more into the drag scene. Im getting another banshee for trails and to beat on... stock jugs. PT mids, 23/22 tires and 12/41 gearing.

Awesome, i knew they where good people up there at east coast atv.

Its located in PA but its like a east coast HJR if im not mistaken.... give them a ring Click me

Yes, carrier is in great shape. I will send a PM with upclose pictures.

TTT

New pricing!! Jugs w/ pistons: $400 Chariot Head w/ 19cc domes: $200 Stock Crank: $100 OKO 30mm carbs w/ pods/outerwears: $200 Stock Intakes, Stock cages with boyseen reeds, and reed spacers: $50 ($230 + carbs/pods) Stock Swing arm: $70 RAD billet dual bearing carrier: $120 Primary Drive o-ring chain w/ 14-41 sprockets: $50

TTT

Selling my whole setup!!! *20-25hrs on topend*HJR Dune ported Stock stroke Cylinders w/ 60 over wiesco pistons, Chariot head w/ 19cc domes, stock reed cages w/ boyseen stage II reeds, reed spacers, stock intakes w/ cross over :$550 ( or best offer for single items) Stock crank not trued/welded: $200 OKO 30MM carbs *keihin knockoffs* w/cable : $180 w/ pods/ outerwears $200 ITP Holeshots on T9 wheels: $300 (local pickup only) Stock Swingarm w/ primary drive o-ring chain/sprockets, w/ Billet dual bearing carrier: $250 (or best offer for single items) PM me for pics *note bike is currently still together ONLY serious inquires on engine parts before disassembly. Will offer pics of before installation, if there is any defects i will drop prices* Thanks, Vic

Here's two more cents.... I will use my bike as reference 19cc domes, 10.2:1 CR, 180psi Over time the psi will decrease with wear but when it gets down below the said "threshold" for race fuel, i should run pump gas??!!! haha hell no. The compression ratio is still 10.2:1 no matter what. His motor is either @ 20,000 feet or its worn out and needs a rebuild. EDIT: or faulty O rings. If you want to run pump fuel 21cc domes or larger. I use this site to calculate compression ratio. http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html enter 2 for metric Then your bore size. I used 65.5 for .060 over Then your stroke. stock stroke is 54 Don't really need to know gasket bore size but if you do type it in. Now the gasket thickness and deck height, I divided my squish(.44) by 2 and entered .22 for each slot Now if you know the Piston dome CC enter that as well. Then the dome size. 19

What you need to do is check your compression ratio, im runnin 19cc domes with .44 squish 180psi, and 10.2:1 compression. Think about it.... Stock banshee is 8.2-8.5:1 and requires 90+ oct. I would run 100 or more. Im running 110 because idk where to get 100 at the moment. My 2 cents spent....

Please explain the type of riding you do and then discuss. What you pay is also good info. just thought i would start some shit lol

its an oldie but still shines.

Just a shot in the dark, Just the cheetah jug and head? What would be your offer? PM box is open.

any kind of silicon spray, wd-40, liquid wrench, ect... have a whole can of maxima chain wax and used it once, NEVER AGAIN.... Looks like nut anyway

Reed clap is normal, but dont just go on that, you have to check everything else out, make sure your O rings on the pipes are good, do a leak down, yank the head to see if you have scaring in the cyl walls from excessive wear, could be a great deal of things. Im sure metal on metal makes a different noise then plastic/alum noise. I have the same sound coming from mine always wonder what it was and it ended up being the reeds. goodluck on finding out what it is.

depending on how loud it is and if it gets faster with the revs, its the reed pedals clapping against the cages.

Well i ordered a set of terrain traks on Douglas blue labels 20x10x10 9 paddle will post pics and ride review. Hope these things are the shit

TTT

who else is thinking "i wonder how he starts it" i bet you would look goofy as hell kickin it over lmao

7.80 a gal. thats what

Im sure my crank was still serviceable before my rebuild but putting 180 psi on it through 6 tanks idk how much longer it can hold up. Finding a new crank thats been trued/welded for a good price are hard to come by.... I wonder if any of the builders have a stock rebuilt unit i can buy whole and give them the "core" to minimize my down time.

First off i dont like having my bike down for any amount of time... But since money is tight i wanting to ask for some input. 1st option : to send my stock crank out to get trued/welded and rebuilt 2nd option: to get a used trued/welded crank (hotrods, wiseco, oem) so minimize the down time 3rd option: to buy a new crank that i know thats been trued/welded and have no worries. I know the 1st option would be the most cost effective way but i will have downtime for 2-3 weeks and i ride just about every two weeks but since winter is around the courner i don't think it would matter much. Just need some convincing... before my motor pops lol