SlowerThanYou

NHRA rules, plus we haul ass with what we have. I'm pretty lean for 50 years old. Come on NYUK did consistent low 10s with the small motor on race gas. Ran a few high 9s with the right track & conditions. The above sentence should answer your ?

Doesn't matter, I can't afford the 12lb. penalty. I understand the +s of the billet, but 12lbs. additional weight is the #1 reason.

There seems to be an unknown about the weight difference between stock & billet. Some say 12-15 & some say 25 lbs heavier. It doesn't matter to me, I can't afford even a 12 lb increase. I weigh 210-230 lbs depending on what surface we are racing on. I'm not fat, LOL! My competitors weigh 140-180 lbs & the 180 is stretching it. My quad weighs 310 lbs. (stock frame) my competitors chromoly custom frames weigh a lot less than ours. That puts us at a 60-100 lb. disadvantage roughly, depending on the situation. So, even a 12 lb. increase if I believe that, is a big deal to our racing program.

Here's a pic of the rod.

Really cheap, LOL! I'm not sure on what they actually cost, but I don't feel like I got bent over.

Billet rods.

Here's the plate installed.

Steel plate. I'm 210-230 lbs. depending on what I have to wear for the different surfaces. Then add in a heavy stock frame. I really didn't want the additional billet weight & the price tag.

Hell I don't know, LOL! We have an idea on what we want to accomplish, but that usaully takes time. I will post up a few of the early shake down runs on both surfaces. This is a whole new animal for us. If it runs close to our old combo starting out I will be happy. We will focus on the 60's, 300' & 330' on both surfaces and the rest of the run if going further usually pays off well.

Pic is in the signature & 1 or two in my gallery. We don't post much of our times, but there are some posted both 300', 1/8 & 1/4 mile of old set-up. Lot's of work for the stock cases, adpter plate, welding & epoxy to name a few. We have case pictures & all the fixins. Hope to take a few more & hope to post a few shake down times. I also hope to provide a review of K&T service. They have been rated a A & I'm sure that will continue. Hoping to provide a more detailed review in the futrue.

This is our new K&T, 10mm DMX. We have run the same basic 7mm starting with stock cylinders & had 2 different set of cub cylinders also. We have been running them since 2005 on 1/8 & 1/4 mile asphalt, hill shooting & lastly 300' I needed something new, but hated to see some of the old combo go. We still a have a couple cylinders for future use. I do a lot of clutch R&D, but most of it was smaller motors up to 535cc. I couldn't afford a really large motor. So, I settled on a medium sized DMX. Time is really limited trying to get everything ready in a short time. I have a NHRA Divisional race to debut with the new combo the last weekend of Mar. Then the following week we debut the new combo on 300'. We only have like 3 days to change over to the sand set-up. I hope to give some updates with the new set-up, when I get some time. Below is the motor still being mocked-up, a few minor issues.

Here's what it looks like after the 2 halves are bolted together.

Finished the machine work today. The wheels still need to be cleaned. The bolts were used to index the 2 halves together. They will be replaced with stainless hardware after hard anodizing.

OK, my next subject was going to be a launch limiter. Another post got started about an adjustable switch clutch lever used to activate the limiter. I thought it was needed for this subject in this thread.

I know it's a lot to process starting out with the clutch tuning thing. I was the same way when I started & it seemed overwhelming at times. Now it seems so easy for me & it does get easier. IMO, I think you will chase your tail more on the clutch set-up without the launch limiter. I'm a little worried about the drl-3000, it looks as if you can only adjust the rpm in 1,000 increments. You need to have something with a finer adjustment. You might want to check into that. If you want PM me & I give you my cell # to talk this thru. The best option is to do this all at once!

I was debating on replying to this thread or not, but I will not give up all the pieces of the puzzle. 1st, you made the right choice to go with the adjustable switch clutch lever. Of course you need the switch adjusted to activate the launch rpm when the clutch lever is pulled in. That's the easy portion of adjusting the switch. The harder part is the timing of the switch to deactivate the launch limiter. The timing of the switch deactivating plays an affect on 60' times. If it's totally out of whack it can cause a bog also. We have a certain way of setting ours up & it works for our clutch set-up. The switch deactivation needs to be set-up/tuned for your combination. There are some other tricks that can be done to the clutch lever for tuning purposes also. I choose not to share them at this time. As for the rest of the above information. I was getting ready to post this in the Lock-up/lock-out tuning thread with the launch limiter subject.

Yep to 4th gear.

I guess that comment came out a little more straight forward than I thought.

We take a different approach for 300' racing. Our background comes from asphalt racing. I listened to the different opinions people had about us switching to hill shooting or 300' set-up. Some opinions came from very good friends. Most opinions were about: 1st or 2nd gear launch, gearing, swingarm length & tires. There was a few other things also. I was told I was wrong with all of them when we started hill shooting/300' racing. My friends don't give the same opinions they used too. I'm not trying to discredit any opinions, just backing mine up. 1st gear works if done right. Gearing 17/39 (2.29 ratio) with 2.86 primaries & 75" RO tires works very well. +14 swingarm deemed way too long by many, works. 14 paddle Rippers raised a good many negative comments & still does. All this stuff & more was totally wrong according to most opinions. Take all this put it in a heavy stock frame with a 210 lb. rider with a 443cc race gas cub. It shouldn't be able to run the numbers it does. One of my good friends from Puerto Rico, called it a good 4.50 quad/set-up. He didn't question our set-up anymore after my first pass ever on 300' was a 4.03. Take all the opinions & do what you want with them. The bottom line is you have to make your set-up work with what you got & spend the money to learn.

Do you actually race? Phils seems like a pretty good stretch for you. You have a hard time racing on the West coast.

Hmmmm, same old text book answers & same old outlooks on what should be done! Too long of swingarm, need to leave in 2nd gear & any other crap you want to follow along with what needs to be done. We have a 14+ swingarm & leave in 1st gear. There's much more to going fast than listening to the same old text book crap. 1st gear launches will not lose any races if done right. I have posted proof on that subject. Start posting up some time slips boys & girls. That's proof of the pudding on how to make things work when drag racing. Most can't do that, because the truth hurts.

Here's one half of the wheel 99% complete. The other half is at about 90%. I should have them finish machined next weekend.

It sounds like you are from MI. First thing I would do is ask help from your MI. brother's like dajogejr or Wheelman. There are more that would gladly help. As for the clutch, the lock-up/lockout tuning thread in the drag section is a good place to start. The mimimum I would start with is a FAST racing clutch kit, Direct Drive lock-up or equivalent, aftermarket clutch basket and new oem inner hub and pressure plate. That's just a few major things covered, there's really more to it.

We run marvin shaw shocks up front & strut on the rear for both 300' sand/asphalt.

Yes, it's not only the tuning that plays a factor. Track/weather conditions, altitude, racing experience are big ones also. Don't take this wrong. A motor is not the key factor, it's important. You would be surprised at what our motor doesn't make for power & we don't really care. The proof is in the time slips! We focus on many different things & 50 years of wisdom helps with that.