SlowerThanYou

I like when the Trinity subject comes up!

This makes good sense, but go to the OP posts. I didn't see where he wanted or said anything about timers. I find the call outs pretty funny. They are all the same BS, they barely want to leave their back yard. Everybody needs to come to them for the race. Most lack the confidence/ability to buck-up & take thier BS any distance to prove their call outs. I've been call out many times, not one had the balls to come race me. I took the race to them 1,300 miles once & 2,400 miles 3 times. On the short trip not one showed up to their backyard track to race. The longer trips, they showed up & nobody stepped up to the plate. IMO, the only place to truly settle things is for the BSer's to grow some balls. Take the race to where the majority of builder's are racing & prove yourself against the best using reaction/timers.

Glazing is most common problem even with a well set-up clutch. It happens to both the steels & frictions. In the past we have always used steel preperation to take care of both for the life of the clutch. I would like to hear your way of resurfacing the plates & fibers. That's if you care to share the process. I recently machined a inner hub & pressure plate to use as holders to resurface. I need to get the camera fixed to take pictures. I'm glad we don't have this problem anymore. Our clutch R&D got pretty expensive in the early days. As for transmission oils we started with conventional 10w30 & 10w40 designed for wet clutchs. We tried type F trans fluid for one race. It didn't want to let the clutch pack un-load on the shift kills. Now we use Royal Purple Synchromax it's synthetic. It works great, but too expensive $17-18 a quart. Going to try a synthetic ATF this next year. Our smearing came from trying coatings on the floater plates. We prep them now before installing & haven't had a problem since. I'm not going to get to detailed on this subject. 1st, our clutch cooling mainly takes place in between runs when the quad is not running. Some of it involves: ice cold rags, fan & rotating the motor. Just for info, we can go 3 runs back to back with doing nothing. It's not our prefered way of doing things, but in later eleminations it happens. This part helps get the oil into the clutch pack. We have specific holes drilled in the inner hub. Plus, some other places that most wouldn't think of, or maybe some do. Now, that we have done all of this, LOL! We have to get the oil out of the clutch pack/basket area to get the clutch to lock-up. Centrifugal Force will do most of the work. There are some other areas that help with that process, but that's one of them detail things mentioned earlier. I would like to hear the first friction helping with cooling. I may already be doing it & not know it. I don't expect you to share everything, I don't. This is a very good tid bit of information! I guess I hit this a couple comments ago. I figured there was still some die hards out there. It makes things a little easier to type, when people make comments or have questions. Congrats, on the victory! We have some significant changes for next year. The plans are mainly for asphalt, but we have a few goals for sand also.

If the base pressure was correct/ideal with the 7 plate. The 8 plate should need less base pressure. Glad someone is still paying attention to this thread. There's still more information coming in the future.

You can run well into the 5s 1/8 & 9s 1/4 with a proper set-up on 8" wide tires. Most people go over kill on the tires.

Yep!

18" /19"s, I know they were smaller than 20's.

Didn't notice much difference. One of the fastest 1/8 mile quad ran small Hoosiers.

We have ran both, but in different sizes. The majority of our runs are with the ARs 20 x 8 x 10 SD23 compound. We have a set Hoosiers 20.5 x 10 x 10 D10 compound. We have done A & B testing with no real differences in ET. There's was a slight difference in MPH but i attribute that to the size/weight difference. What one last longer, don't know. IMO, any longer than a 1 race season is to long for optimum performance.

Plain & simple your clutch set-up is not happy; it's clutch chatter & that has already been brought up. How do you fix it. Some times it take less base pressure/sometimes more. It could be in your dynamic weight application also. You may need to slow up or quicken your slingshot application. There are some other tricks that can be done depending on where it's occurring in the clutch pack. Wheelman had a neat little machining trick/tip. There's no set answer for your problem other than you need to make changes till it's happy.

Nice bike. The last time slip I posted back in 2008 was a 10.23 @ 123 mph. We have been a lot faster since then (97hp). Only 5 races on 300' sand & it works well there also.

Thanks for sharing the information, any 1/4 mile times? I'm sure I could help out.

The ET & mph pretty much match for the 1/8 mile, but the MPH for the 1/4 mile is about 6mph slow. I've been drag racing for 30 years & the majority of priciples that work on other drag vehicles work for the quad. We are less than 100 hp so something must be working right.

This is just for information only. We don't run a full fender bike either & I know the affects of wind resistance. We run over 120 mph documented & the ET to MPH ratio is off. Mainly due to a quad not being aerodynamically effecient. We have ran full throttle in high gear for about 1/2 mile for aerodynamic testing & future goals. There's a point with a given HP, gearing, wind resistance/drag coeffient & I'm sure I forgot something. That limits the RPM of the motor or the MPH for a given vehicle. Our quickest runs with the quad in the 1/4 mile has come running out of gear & RPM. We shift into 6th gear well before 660'. Our final RPM on a good run is 10,600 & hits that or maintaines it well past the quarter when staying in the throttle.

You keep bringing up no load on the motor high gear. It doesn't take 19/36 gearing to provide the load. At a certain point, aerodynamic force provides all the load needed & then some. Phelps, I think you get it, but some other's; I have my doubts.

Not going to waste a lot of time on this. I'm a little more open minded to what can & can't be done. As for one mile wide open in 6th gear. We are working on trying in the future, but no one wants to include 4 wheelers in their program; yet! Below is a course 5 & 11 mile course that uses 1 mile timing. There are plenty of RD/RZ motor records & I'm pretty sure they kept it pinned in 6th for the mile. We haven't attempted 1 mile yet, but we do have experience at high speeds. http://www.speedtrialsbybub.com/2010_event/10Event-map.pdf

I'm pretty sure we gear differently than most, but that's another subject. As for your spring/base pressure approach? We tune base pressure & arm weight for the quickest 60' for heads-up racing. Do we chase it after every pass, no. We come in with a known baseline for the track if we have one. If it falls within the 60' area we are looking for we leave it alone for the race. The majority of tuning & maintenance takes place at home. As for index & bracket racing we have softer tuning baseline we use. It's more about a slightly slower 60' for consistency reasons. This set-up we can make around 40 passes without looking/touching the clutch. Slightly less than a bog invites a bog, IMO! Nothing has come good from our races when a bog occurs. Besides measuring & looking for obvious damage like someone brought up. We look for glazing, burnt & sometimes smeared. I wish photos would show this stuff. I hope I didn't forget anything. Glazed frictions are a common thing we run into. The material appears shinny is the best description & they lose a lot of grip/friction. We prep our steels to help prevent glazing on both the steels & frictions. I think I covered that in the steels portion earlier. We are preparing to do it a different way in the near future. Burnt frictions are basically black in appearance. The frictions got to hot & they need to be tossed. We had a lot of this when we 1st started clutch tuning. We have some ways to help cool the clutch pack. I hope to cover that in the future if I remember. Smeared frictions I think only happened once or twice. I'm pretty sure it was caused by some coatings we were trying on the steels. Maybe someone else has experienced this & could chime in. So, how do we prevent some of this or slow it down. I've covered some of it with the steels inspection & maintenance. Some will be covered next in the clutch hub.

I agree! It takes testing with everthing mentioned & some things that have not been brought up. They need to be tailored for your specific application. We use or programmable ignition also to help with our reaction times & 60's.

I would say call Dyna, but there customer service SUCKS! The couldn't tell me how to wire in their shift kill/counter to our banshee. After cussing me out, they had the balls to ask me how I wired it in.

Sorry, there are guys using this set-up on their Banshees with the stock cdi. I have no idea how to wire it for the Banshee. I guess I didn't pay attention to the diagram. I use a programmable dyna ignition with the launch limiter built in.

You can find it here. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=161112&hl=

So what does comp hill have anything to do with the OPs 1st post.

Tricked, Look up a quad or atv holeshot device using Google. This should be your 1st investment for your application. We have been using similar techniques with our asphalt drag race vehicles for many years.

I can't stress enough to weigh your arm weights in grams before making changes.

Now the big question is what are your 60' times guys, becuase that's what the OP is after.