SlowerThanYou

Here's the latest update with testing the new DMX motor. The motor is going into a 90" Black Label rigid chassis. The chassis is about 30 lbs. lighter than our stock frame. We will be running 84" RO 16 paddle 2 layer Kevlar staggered Rippers. This should make for some better times than our stock frame set-up.

Here's the latest update with testing the new DMX motor. The motor is going into a 90" Black Label rigid chassis. The chassis is about 30 lbs. lighter than our stock frame. We will be running 84" RO 16 paddle 2 layer Kevlar staggered Rippers. This should make for some better times than our stock frame set-up.

Thanks again guys for the thoughts & well wishes! I have a broken collar bone. Plus, a badly bruised ego/old man body & road rash to go along with it. Trying to get the motor in another chassis for Bakersfield, but depends on my Dr. appointments.

I should be locked-up. No, I'm getting right back on the horse when I'm physically able & can afford to spend more money.

Thanks for the well wishes. We are trying to fix it or put it in a spare rigid chassis & try to make it to Bakersfield.

Well we had an accident today testing. Started talking with Angel about putting something together with the DMX motor in it for the BAKO drags. I posted some of the accident stuff in the General Discussion. section. Our plans for racing have changed drastically.

Not yet, I'm having a hard time calling people & typing.

DMX testing/crash today. The bike is a total mess. I think I broke my right collar bone. Road rash everywhere even in my butt crack. The wife had me strip down naked. Have to get a doctor's appointment & x-rays tomorrow. I'm getting too old for this shit! K&T DMX motor review. That thing is insanely fast with a very mild tune & only running thru 2 gears chopping the throttle when I hit 3rd. That's when the problems started trying to get it stopped. The back end started fish tailing & caught the right rear sidewall. The tumbles & cartwheels started. Both the bike & I ended up about 40'-50' from where it went airborne.

I'll have to get back with you later. I'm testing the new motor today. I do have some more recommendations.

I don't know why people put so much focus on leaving in 2nd gear on sand. We have proven 1st gear launches work on the hill & at the track if done right. Plus, it really helps with heavier rider's.

IMO, the 1st mistake is trying to get into 5 gear up the hill when launching is 1st. 5th gear is used up the hill when launching in 2nd. The gearing for the 2 different starting gears is totally different & affects how the motor pulls RPM on the hill. We use a 1st gear launch & only use 4th gear up the hill. Banshee hill at Dumont IMO is a joke, compared to Comp hill or even Oldsmobile hill @ Glamis. We use 4th for all of them. I do agree with your weight you need a slightly longer arm & +10 is what I would recommend. I still think you have other issues to deal with also. I would like to hear about that good tune with the slingshot.

This is Banshee Hill at Dumont.

This is at Glamis on Oldsmobile hill.

We have ran Dumont, Glamis & Armagosa Valley with an 8" arm, 14 paddle haulers & 12 paddle extremes, 7mm cub on race gas with a 210 lb. rider. With the proper clutch set-up & gearing it carried the front tire about 6" off the ground. We ran 16/41 sprockets & left in 1st gear.

It's the same one I bought from FAST Racing.

How's this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/EMPI-Universal-Carburetor-Synchronizer-weber-IDF-HPMX-carb-/170988649606?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222001%26algo%3DSIC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D6294960888343687781%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D170752202902%26

FAST Racing.

Looks like we are going do some testing at the airport, hopefully tomorrow. Hope to get some full throttle passes at least into 3rd gear. I'll have to see if the big names in asphalt like John Force, John Carlo, Ajax & the HQ Know-It-All's give their blessings. While I'm at it, I need permission to run 1/4 mile on Mar. 28-30. Who's the 300' Know-It-All's that I need permission from for the BAKO Drags Apr. 4-7.

Decals installed on wheel, still need to find the right clear adhesive to protect them.

I stand corrected, you are right. The last 2 paragraphs are incorrect. You multiply the primary ratio x the sprocket ratio. Plus, you can throw in the transmission ratio also for whatever gear is being used.

Thanks guys!

Talk to John, he has them 8x8, 8x10 and I just talked with him about the 8x12s about a month ago. http://sandtoyzunlimited.com/sandtoyz/newlook/Modern_clean.cfm

Here's the stickers I ordered for the wheel. I need to trim the top & bottom a little. Try & get them on straight. Plus, I'm going to use a clear adhesive over it.

This is the way we figure our gearing changes, especially when we do a primary ratio change. The stock ratio was mentioned 2.86 & a 2.68 ratio. That's a change of .18 gearing difference. Now a 17 front sprocket was mentioned, but no front (comparison) & no rear was, but we'll use a 16/41 = 2.56 ratio rounded down. So, let's take a 1 tooth front sprocket change like mentioned, 17/41 = 2.41 ratio. One tooth is .15 difference, That's a pretty good comparison. The one tooth comparison doesn't work the same when getting to the bigger front/smaller rear sprockets. Let's take the 17/41. 2.41 ratio & a 18/41 = 2.28 ratio rounded up. That's a difference of .13, so, it starts to become bigger difference. This is what we prefer to do & gives the exact math for the gearing change. This really helps when you have a known baseline gearing set-up. Then you want to change the primary gear, but can work with other scenarios also. We just did this drill for our DMX for a starting baseline. Our old primary 1/4 mile set-up was a 17/36, 2.12 ratio with a 2.86 primary. We take the sprocket ratio & add it to the primary ratio, 2.12 + 2.86 = 4.98 ratio. That gives us a known MPH at a certain rpm with our tires & our overall combination. Now, we changed our primary ratio on our DMX to a 2.54, add that to our known combo 2.54 + 2.12 = 4.66 ratio. We used a gearing/mph calculator to figure the mph for a given rpm. It gives us around 12 mph more that the old set-up, but at a lower rpm. It puts us close to what we are trying to run & will fine tuned from there.

LMFAO!