SlowerThanYou

Sure do & that's with a 210-230 lb rider on a 443 cub on race gas with a stock frame.

A launch limiter requires tuning just like everything else. We manage low 1.30 60's with a launch limiter & the overall set-up.

That's one of the most sought out questions for clutch tuning. I'm sharing a good amount of information on the subject as is. Right now, I choose not to give out baseline information.

Lastly, you have to measure the spring seat hieght on the lock-up, dimension #2. To get your spring installed hieght, add dimension #1 & #2 = installed height.

Here I'm using the depth gauge of the calipers to measure. You must subtract the distance from the top of the tube to the top of the inner hub stand to get dimension #1 of the installed hieght.

Here's the tube installed in the clutch pack.

This is best done with the clutch pack out of the motor. It can be done with it in, but it's a little more difficult. I will have to make 3 or 4 posts to get all the pics needed. Below is a piece of tubing I cut on the lathe to set length.

Here's the shift light we use. http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto+Meter/105/5330/10002/-1

OK, getting a few questions on this. I really don't like getting into the electronics of our bike. Mainly because I suck at them. I have no wiring diagrams & only know the basics. LOL! This is for a programmable dyna ignition. You need the programing software to make this stuff work. The ignition does a lot of neat things, but their (Dyna) customer service absolutely SUCKS! The shift light requires a small 12v battery. We use a Auto Meter Quick-Lite Shift Light. It's a 2 wire hook up. One lead to 12v + & one to the Dyna accessories wire. There are 3 different ones on the ignition to do different rpm activations. Now, while you are doing this using a Dyna ignition. You might as well hook up the launch limiter. This requires a switched clutch lever. It's a two wire hook-up, of course I have no diagram. Lastly don't ask about the Dyna shift counter/shift kill. Dyna was no help in hooking it up. A buddy & I figured it out. It requires a relay to make it work & no I don't have a wiring diagram. LOL! As for the other guys not using the programmable Dyna. Sorry, can't help much. I have a hard enough time with my own electronics. I'm not promoting Dyna one bit. All this stuff had to be figured out with backyard engineering. Their Customer Service/Engineering Dept. SUCKS!

One con for the Q16 is we can't use it the certain organizations limited classes. There are more, but don't have time for it now.

From what I know about your combo. I would not recommend using the MO2X, I looked it up on VP's site. It doesn't come close to the MON rating you need. Now IMO, the Q16 should work well for you if the rules allow it. We have used it & it works very well with the right tune-up. All our tuning is done with plug chops & time slips. We have run the VP 110, C14 & Q16; plus, other brands of fuels. They all have there pros & cons. With the VP fuels there's a distinct performance/tuning advantage in each step up in the VP fuels we have ran. As for the C16, IMO the only place it has an advantage if you are using it with nitrous.

I'm sure I have posted the link a couple times in the drag section. I think it's my next topic in the lock-up/lock-out tuning thread when I get time.

That's funny it seems to be the misconception. If you have a shift light you can't ride. Hell, I don't give a shit if people think I can ride or not. 30 plus years of asphalt motorsports, all my junk has shift lights. We put it on our asphalt quad, it stayed on when hill racing & is put to good use on 300' sand dirt drags. It has provided a very good advantage on 300' because the majority don't use them. Properly used they provide very good information.

You will find some other tuning advice in their tech bulletins also. I have a 3 ring binder I use for my bible. The is one of many articles I use for tuning, along with 30 plus years racing experience. Thanks for the props! http://www.rockettbrand.com/techsupport/documents/TechBulletins/TuningWithDifferentGasolines.pdf

I'll be able to post some more info on this later in the week.

We tuck in our rear tires for aerodynamic purposes for 1/4 mile asphalt. When we go to 300' sand we spread them out for a more stable/predictable run. The asphalt width is not safe for sand. We could go narrower on asphalt, but it gets to a point where less width becomes a safety factor.

Thanks, I have about 4-6 more hours machine time. I actually want to get the Miller Light outer appearance correct. I have a couple ideas. I will post up more pics in the near future. Testing of the new use product should take place the 1st weekend of Apr.

This is more for Dave to ponder over & not a text book answer to what a gave earlier. We are at our peak HP numbers well before the set distance we are running. You would be surprised were it takes place at. I would gladly give up MPH to gain ET. This technique will do it & if done right you can still salvage the mph pretty well.

Here's the flange side to mount the other half of the wheel to.

Here's a pic of one half of the wheel that's about 3/4 rough machined.

After drinking numerous Miller lights at my Sponsors hangar/shop. I decided I needed to build a new sand wheelie bar wheel. My sponsor (Al) asked me what I wanted to build it out of & I said Miller Light beer cans. So, the drunken idea was born. First off for the product review of the beer. Miller light is not my beer of choice, but it's free so it will have to do. Anyway, now to the building of the new product. A new 2 piece beer can aluminum wheelie bar wheel & tire combo. So, about a month ago we fired up the small kiln in the shop to make a couple of beer can ingots. After melting 1,000 plus Miller Light cans we have one ingot. Hence, we had to repeat the process again. I think we drank some beer that day. We end up at the end of the day with (2) 6" dia. x 6" long cast beer can aluminum ingots. The first picture is the ingot shown from the top with a rough end cut. I wish I had step by step photos of the process, but I don't.

I think things have been covered pretty well so far. The text book answer for gearing is: Example motor A makes peak HP at 9,700 rpm. Take motor A & run 1/8 asphalt with a 6 speed transmission. Text book scenerio is to have that combo in 6th gear @ 9,700 rpm at or around the 1/8 mile. Say, that's done with a 2.35 (17/40 sprockets) final ratio; no changes needed. Now, take that same ratio & it only give you 9,000 rpm. You are leaving a lot rpm/power out of the run. So you know you need more rpm. I would go to a 2.41 or 2.44 ratio for more rpm. You would use the opposite scenerio if the rpm was at 10,400 rpm. You need to lower the rpm with a mid 2.20 ratio. To determine Sprocket ratio: rear spocket teeth divided by front teeth. Example: 17/41=1.4117647, that gets rounded down to a 2.41 ratio. You give a good detailed set-up & I can give a recommended sprocket combo.

Thanks for posting the results, I was getting ready to ask. According to my tuning Bible, the SG change between the 2 fuels require 2 jet size change, richer.

I've never ran C12, but we run C14. Of course the biggest difference is the MON Rating. 108 vs. 114. Second is the specific gravity, C12 is 0.717 vs. C14 0.696. Generally speaking, switching to a lower SG leans out the mixture a small degree.

Here's how we measure our arm air gap. It's basically the same way you guys can measure yours, but you have to make sure your arms a parrallel to the pressure plate.