majicmike

You hit that nail on the head! it will just move to the piston coming out the pipe.

Thank you guys!

I got a small 520 cub

send me a payment through pay pal [email protected] and Ill send them out

On e-bay It went http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...p;rd=1&rd=1

When I get home I will post a dyno run and ALL I want people to look at is the curve NOT the numbers because I dont need a pissin match. As I have said before a dyno is a tool and thats it. When a dyno passes me Ill race a dyno.

No right out of the box the 68 will make better hp. When you put a 72mm bore in a cylinder made for a 65mm bore things get messed up quick. The transfers and the exuast are bad and need big work. But those numbers are ported super vs ported 68. RDZ and someone else only sell them (super cubs) ported becuase they loose HP. Also you do have to bore the case to fit the larger sleeve. Pretty much the super is only good for the dune racer because unless you look really close and know what you are looking for you could not tell the differance between the super and the 68. But my 10mm super is 520cc that to the avrage person looks the same as a 421 cub. :ninja:

No NO and NO You do not have to trench the case for the 4mm crank and no you can not do it with a die grinder and no there are no templates. Trenching the cases is done with a mill. You maybe talking about boring the cases for the super and there again NO and NO no die grinder and no templates

What you are looking at on RDZ site is the super cub. Yes they are alot more in price then the 68 bore for not alot more in "PEAK" numbers. But when you over ley the numbers 68 vs 72 the 72 makes 4-6 hp more though the entire curve and tops out at the same number.It makes about 6-8ftlbs of tq though out and peak as well.It depends on what you are doing with it. If you are a dunner and like to play around go with the 68 bore. If you are a bigger guy and dune drag race and test and tune on the track then the super is the way to go. But if you go to the track for an event right now the super is not the way to go becuase it will put you in a different cc class. Also the 4mm that ran a 3.59 was a super cub. I am starting to do some testing with the twister mini right now and its starting to look like I may be changing cylinders but weight is a problem with the twister cylinders.

Not sure if this helps but I use a 154 on my + 12 and a 148 on my 10 each link is about 1/2 inch so you would need 6-8 inches less depending on sprocket size

Ill also do what ever set of domes you would like for cool head / noss style heads

Because I have a 10mm super cub and a 620 cranker.I dont need another project right now.

here are some pics The streaks in the cylinders are from the cold. They are perfect. http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w302/ma...os/000_1282.jpg http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w302/ma...os/000_1281.jpg http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w302/ma...os/000_1280.jpg http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w302/ma...os/000_1279.jpg

I can do it for $30.00

I dont like the boondockers because it is a dry systom but I am sure people have had good luck. Nate mccoy and henderson racing sell great reliable set ups

I dont know your set up but if its good and you dont kill the spray evry time you run it could handle up to 30-50 per hole I have a buddy sprayin 60 a hole. but I dont know your set up.

I have a 350 cub cylinder (stock stroke 65mm bore) It was used for less than an hour then taken off and renikeled. It will come with brand new wisco pistons (still in the box) base gasket studs and plugs for the bottom of the cylider. The ports have been cleaned up I would like to get $950.00 plus 20.00 for shipping Ill get pics up tonight.

You know how many parts I have you should just call LOL

If you buy on make sure the backing plate is strong. the hinson has a weak backing plate and will bend. When they bend it will be a cushin eating monster.

IMO dont mess with the dry kit your just looking for trouble with it. Other than that pull the timing out and give it plenty of fuel and a small shot 5-10 per hole you could run it all day and have loads of fun. :thumbsup:

This is my .02 I would lean toward a broken skirt on the intake side. that got lodged in the crank. Thats my name In the hat so to speak. let us know good luck

Good luck may want to try e-bay

I have 41 mm mukunis on one bike and 39 keihins on the other. there is no differance in power. The differance comes in to areas. like said before you can switch a mukuni back and forth from gas to meth and the keihin is one or the other. The this is the resone why I like keihins the pull the mukuni will kill your thumb no matter how much you cut the springs. but like I said I have both and they perform the same.

I have a buddy that has a 10mm cub with pual turner mids 2 into 1 44mm carb and all he does is hill shoot It can be done. He does have a billet float bowl and a fuel pump so the single carb can keep up with the fuel supply. There is benifits to running alcohol on a trail bike. On hot days the bike runs a 40-60 degrees cooler. In my area methanol is 2.05 a gallon where race gas is 7.00. The draw backs to runnig meth is if it is not tunned right it will load up and when you hit the gas it will fall flat on its face until you clean it out. but I will run meth in all my personal bikes dune/trail and my drag bikes it is free power!

nice pics :thumbsup: