majicmike

Are you still running the stock carbs? lets say you are I would start at 260 but I would say you are going to be around a 220 for the denver area. if you are not a big drag racer then once you have it in here it will run ok up there. 9000 Ft where are you riding walden?

where are you ?

traded thanks red

I dont mean to make you sound dumb but did you check the fuel level in the tank ? I have done that worked on a bike and had a fuel leak or some other problem. One time I checked the fuel looked like there was fuel sonded like there was fuel but not as much as I thought. Just would trikle over the tube to fill the bowls but not supply the right amont of fuel. It sounds just like that. You had a lean backfire in the vid so no fuel or an air leek. You can check for a air leak with carb cleaner just spray around you intake and carbs if the idle goes up you have an air leak. Hope this helps

Like the title said looking to trade. I can give link to some pics but it has +8 swinger aftermark spring in the back +2 foward 1 arms chrome tripple rate works alot of chrome and bling. All billet hubs on the rear +2 +2 rear axle polshed stator/clutch covers billet pegs anti vibe stem custom painted plastic (real simple nothing to fancy) there is much more but I forget.thats the good now the bad. It comes with 2 sets of pipes power pros and cpis, out of frames the cpis need welded. the grab bar broke where the custom tail light was (it just needs a stock grab bar) all the billet could use polished. the clutch needs to be replaced but I have a new fast clutch that goes with it( I could install if you want). I want to keep the dune tires that are on it so we could just swap rims and tires (I just do not use dirt tires ) but all and all the bike is nice Im building a new drag bike and this on was going to my 14 year old girl but I think it is way to fast for her. It will ride a wheelie with the +8 swinger in 1-4 it jumps real nice for it being so long. if you want more details you can call me @ 720-628-1668 from 6-6 mst or at home @720-685-8593

Im already there :thumbsup: Lets just say my 10mm super cub is only about 1 1/2 hrs from you right now. Numbers maybe higher than first thought :ninja: Ill post more when I have the sheet with the best numbers we can get. when the bottle is added it may be silly but I dont have solid numbers yet.

If you live in colorado or around I have some parts. I will not ship the frame cuase its a pain in the ass and not worth the time. check it out http://www.dunereview.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4096

R&D is great on that head I dont want to step on toes I am not a good sorce for info on the PV because they do not work worth a crap here. 5280 ft in denver and 8300 ft where we ride. The power valve does not open when it should . we lose 0.7 points of compresion at 5280ft so if you do the math you lose a little more than a full point at the dunes. IMO the ports are to large on the 10mm cheetah and under for were we ride. So the super cub with the smaller ports and the bigger bore should work great here where at sea level it may only make 2-3 hp more here it may make 7-10 over the 68mm bore and the Cheetah. I could write a book about this .

With the big cheetah the power gain over the cub is only 5-6 horse buy some of the best builders. With the Cheetah you will need a new head, new reeds , new pipes, new intakes which will run up words of $1500. With the super cub all you need is the case bored and head you can use your pipes, reeds , intake, the head and the case work are worst case $500 . the super cub makes 2-3 hp more than the 68mm cub with very little testing. Also no one that I know of has dyno numbers on a 10mm super cub it may make more or as much as a Cheetah . As far as porting both the cheetah and the super cub take a lot of work to get them right. If things work out rob and I will have a 10mm super here shortly Ill let people know about the numbers. Thats just my .02

I would like the rear brake caliper

With the bigger rims you also gain weight and it will slow you down. I have seen many times guys with the same motor same power the guy with the super lite tire will win every time some say the sl with 8x8 rims is worth 2 bikes Im not sure if thats true but I see it that way. So the larger the rim the more spin imo.

Here is my .02 the 20x10x10 10 paddles are a waste of money if you are doing any sort of drag racing. The side wall is to stiff and has no give it would be like running a 24 inch rim on a top fuel its not going to do what you need it to. You want the side wall to give when you launch it provides the widest possible foot print (most contact area of the tire). the 20x10x10 10 paddles also have another down fall the paddles are to close to each other and dont clean themself out as good or as fast. You dont want sand still in the paddle when its comming back around for the next bite. That is jmo..............

I do not think Jeff (F.A.S.T.) copys anyones work. Ive seen his motors work first hand. Jeffs blue bike (in a stock frame) hung with a very light drag frame K & T 10mm cub with some tunning advantage ( 32 deg @8500 ft ABOVE sea level ) thats our back yard. And jeff beat a lsr drag framed stock cylinder K & T 10mm (was kims personal bike at one time) with almost perfict tune (or as good as it gets for that day). Some would say that K & T is one of the best builders in the world. For jeff to beat one all out drag bike and to be knocking on the door of the other one seems to me that puts him right up there in that class wouldent you think. I dont have one of his motors but the class and workman ship he had that weekend in my mind makes him a world class person and builder. I will say this weather or not we ever do buisness. You will know if you just buy a set of paddles or you have a motor built Jeff will help you out and if I ever needed a motor built F.A.S.T. would be on my speed dial!

Shipping U.S.P.S. is not that much. I know jeff at F.A.S.T ships outside the U.S. and I can also.

In the future you can take a penny and put it between the clutch basket gear and the pto (crank drive gear) it will hold it. The penny is soft and will not hurt the gears. Old tom at mountain performance clued me in on that may years ago :thumbsup:

Well shoot all us necks out her just find sheep when the women folk dont come around. ye get the gun there red and well go square dancin' tonight :beer: Live by these great words from some poet there red " I got 99 problems but a bitch ain't one " just tryin to cheer you up there buddy.

I had a noss head on a motor that I was selling but it is sold

That is K&TS twin saber the caracal is bigger yet :thumbsup:

I put some used tires on there sand stars front dune tires take a look

ill do 125 with 18cc domes cuz thats whats in it and I dont have to go to the shelf and pull brand new ones and you would have to send paypal or check or money order cus I ship usps look at my e-bay feed back if you worrie majic1mike

Polished aluminum color

I have a new noss head that was put on but never run. You can chose what ever domes work for you stock bore 16cc-21cc or big bore (cub) 17cc-20cc I would like 150 for it shipped

brand new ready to bolt on/ no porting cast ports

Ill hook you up Brand new you chose borexstroke

do you have a phone number and some pics? how about price?