mpbanshee

I have no knowledge of your abilities or equipment, but porting is a true art form that takes years of experience (and cylinders) to perfect. I wouldn't dare attempt it myself. As for your question, I'm not sure who else makes softwre for it.

It means that the ignition fires the plug when the piston is at the top dead center of it's stroke. Advancing the timing to +4 will give you some added low end power. Heres what I would do: 1. run a compression check. (is your 96 on the original top end?) 2. Set the air screws on the side of the carbs to 2 turns out from snug. 3. Remove the carbs one at a time, and clean out all the jets and passages. 4. Make sure the carbs are synched after you put them back on.

1. Bump timing +4 2. Bump compression (noss head or mill stock head) 3. Lighten flywheel 4. Ditch airbox lid (proflow adapter) 5. If you want to spend the cash, get it ported and get some bigger carbs.

Sounds like it may be a jetting issue. What mods are on it (pipes, air intake, etc)? What size jets are in the carbs? Did you clean out all of the jets and passages before installing the carbs?

My vote would be for Paul Turner Mids. I think they are the best pipe for low and midrange power, and they are better than stockers on top as well. I would also spend an extra 100 bucks and bump the timing 4 degrees, have .030 shaved off the stock head, and get a K&N filter. That would make a great low/mid setup. Oh yeah, at least ditch the snorkle tube...

Hey Banshee43... I'm sure he appreciates your input, but he has probably purchased pipes by now.

I agree. Will probably need to drop a few sizes on the mains.

I don't think taking a bike that runs perfectly and simply switching to a K&N filter would cause major problems like that (moror dying, not wanting to idle). My guess is you put the slides in backwards or something. The K&N may make it a bit lean, but should not cause havoc like that.

$200 budget... 1. Cut stock head .030" 2. Have flywheel lightened 3. True and weld crank 4. Have stock carbs bored 5. Ditch the box and get pods (if you avoid water)

How does it do with the 330's now?

Huh?

PORTING!!! That is if you want to spent the money for it. At least a lightened flywheel if not. Also, I wouldn't spend the $$ on new carbs if you are not going to port.

It also allows shorter riders (like me) to be able to see the front tires. I absolutely cant stand to ride a quad with front fenders because they block my view of the front tires. Especially in narrow trails...

Remove the bowls from the carbs and spray carb cleaner and compressed air through all the jets and passages. Also check to make sure the floats arent sticking up. See if that works.

The olny thing in your list of changes that would require a substantial jetting change would be the lid removal. 340 does sound big for what you have, even after the changes. I would do a WOT plug reading and see what your plugs say.

Have you unhooked the TORS assembly and the parking brake switch?

If you have an air leak, spraying ether around the intake should make the motor idle faster, not bog down. Pull the right carb off and take out the four bolts holding the reed cage in. Then you can pull the reed cage out and inspect them. The reed petals should seat flat against the metal cage.

Just make sure you get them nice and flush, so you dont develop an air leak.

You need to use a razorblade to cut off the rubber tabs. Be careful, and take your time.

YOu do not need to use sealer or locktite on any of that stuff. As for the needles, I would assume that he means 4th from the top (blunt end), but I would doubel check with your builder.

Your engine builder should tell you what jetting to run.

With the mods you have listed, I would say stock jetting will be pretty close. 200 mains, 25 pilot, and needle clip in center groove.

Riding around for a while, and then pulling in the garage and shutting her off does not give you an accurate plug reading. You need to run the bike at a certain throttle position and instantly kill the spark to get an accurate reading for a particular jetting circuit. To dial in the mains, it needs to be ran WFO for several seconds, and killed instantly.

May have to go up a size on the mains, but maybe not. I would do a WOT test, or plug chop and see where you stand.

You can either modify your stock stator plate, buy an offset flywheel key, or buy an adjustable timing plate. My advice is to spend 70 bucks and get the adjustable plate, it is a much better method. It is an easy mod to do, as long as you have an impact gun. You will also need to order a flywheel removal tool, which you can order from Vito's (product ID: FWP). Finally, buy a Clymer manual if you don't already have one.