mpbanshee

DaveMooreRacing.com Top notch work, and great service and price as well. I think he is outside of Salem.

My guess would be that you didn't get the adjuster screw on the pressure plate adjusted correctly. This usually needs to be adjusted when installing a new clutch. Follow the directions in the manual. This happened to me last time, and it was slipping really badly.

Unless you ride in wet conditions, I would reccomend the pods.

20 minutes at WOT throttle, hmmmmmm...... I would do a WOT plug run, and see what the plugs say.

125 psi per cylinder is not "part of the problem." 125 is fine, unless you have a modified or aftermarket head. I would guess you didn't get something installed correctly. Pull the flywheel back off, and make sure the plate is installed nice and snug (3 bolts). Make sure you didnt lose the key on the end of the crankshaft, and the spline in the flywheel is sliding on the key correctly. Finally, check the gap from the pickup to the tabs on the flywheel.

Yes, you are right. I would ditch the snorkle anyway...

What are "powernow valves?" Looks like you have the basic bolt-on's covered. I would add a heavy duty clutch, and get the flywheel lightened. I am not a fan on the single carb, I love my dual 34's. Why do you want to change pipes? Your FMF's should work well with a good motocross port job. As long as you don't ride in alot of water, I would ditch the airbox and get some pod filters. You will probably see the most benefit out of a good set of +2 a-arms and some good shocks.

Go back to the last posting date of March 12 on this forum. There is a thread called "engine break-in" that will help you.

Three questions... 1. What mods do you already have? 2. What type of riding do you do? 3. How much money do you have?

Won't hurt anything. I just use spacers so my fat-ass carbs clear the clutch perch also...

How did you get the old seal out then? Are you sure you arent talking about the seal on the impeller? The two case halves are what hold the crank seals in place.

Before you go splitting the cases, check out the carbs. You could just be a little rich on one side. Remove the carbs, clean out all the jets and passages, and check the jet sizes (main jet, pilot jet, and neelde clip position). Put it back together, make sure the carbs are synced, and the air screws are set correctly. Check the reed condition while you are at it. Do a few runs, and see if it clears up, and check your plug colors. It could very well be a crank seal, but check out the carbs first. Crank seals are cheap, but you have to split the cases to replace them.

Banshee's have a safety switch that will not allow the motor to rev if the parking barake is on. These are notorious for going bad. Same thing with the TORS like mentioned above. Do a search on this forum on "parking brake" and you will find instructions on how to disconnect it. Congrats on the great deal, and welcome!

Sounds like you have something installed in the carb wrong, something clogging a jet, or an air leak.

Most likely

Going smaller on the front sprocket will make the low end better. A bigger front sprocket will increase top speed. Just remember that with a smaller front sprocket, you will be shifting alot more.

Don't run that motor until you rejet it!!!!!! 300 Sounds like a good place to start on the main jets. GET A CLYMER MANUAL!

380's!!! Holy crap! My guess is you have an air leak somewhere, or something is wrong in your carbs. Take them apart, clean all jets and passages, and put them back together CAREFULLY. Make sure everything is installed correctly. Then tighten up all clamps and check for air leaks. Something is not right...

Jetting is based on throttle position, not engine speed. If it ran fine at 40 degrees, and started to stutter when the temp warmed up, you just need to drop a size or two on the mains, and you should be fine.

There are a lot of good builders out there. My motor is done by Dave Moore (davemooreracing.com). Price was reasonable, turnaround was good, and my bike flat out hauls ass!!!!!!!

Don't go any more that .030" without having the head redomed. You should still be able to run premium pump gas with .030" milled and +4 timing. I would run a compression check when it is done just to be safe. You will get quicker throttle response and more low end power with these mods. You should not have to rejet, but do a plug reading to be on the safe side.

On a fresh stock motor, I believe 18cc domes would give alot more compression that 150. However, I assume when he ported the cylinders, he raised the exhaust ports, which would reduce the compression. May want to double check with the builder.

Yes, you need to rejet! Personally, I would not waste money on a "jet kit". Your stock needles and pilots shoul be ok (may need a 27.5 pilot though). Unless you frequently ride in water, I would get a filter adapter, and ditch the airbox lid. You will probably need to be somewhere between 280-310 on the main jets. Do a plug reading to dial it in perfectly.

I would reccomend getting a Clymer Manual if you don't already have one. That is the first purchase any Banshee owner needs to make.

I'm in Kokomo if you end up needing any help...