375hp banshees

It went in for service only & problem started days later? What does it have for air filter setup? You verified both slides are moving & in sync? ""it is assumed that the carburettors are in good condition the mechanic revised them on various occasions"" when was the last various occasion? i'd start there Does it not fire @ all or just at certain rpm's? Try & pull one wire off while running (@low & again @ high rpms) & see if you can tell a difference. Start with the dead side then put back on & try good side. Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Even if it seals it enough to fire up, & confirm thats the problem, maybe that'll help! Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

I don't know what happened but, I'm Not typing all that again bad pic...number 26? Is that where its leaking? Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

If you really want to keep tors theres an o-ring under carb. cap maybe try that? ...fyi Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Your best Bang for your buck is a port job on your oem cylinders & get crank welded. speak with a Reputable builder, tell them what you're racing against, And how else you plan on riding...done

Were new elec. Parts oem? Easiest check: Swap wires left to right & see if it changes sides (2 check compression done) 3 leakdown test Did you do anything just before it started this problem?

Girth vs hung Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

You really are skeeters son Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

No, thats what i'd do ...at first Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

He's not using the switch ^ But yes Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Leds usually have incandescent watt equivalent so you might be looking @ that? take the yellow wire coming from the stator & splice ("T") in two wires to it .1 wire usually goes back to reg. that is factory located under the seat on frame iirc. then you just use other new "T'd" wire & run up front . then splice (T) it to L & R socket for hot. But the chances of led working are not good...you can try it since you already have them but again a.c. & leds arent compatible Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Yeah it's a shame, its a good safety feature, if you know how it works, looks like back to cdi swap Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Filters clean...over oiled? Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Are slides in correct carb (cut outs towards back of quad iirc), crossover tube back on?

https://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/133650-banshee-electrical-faq/ Schematic in beginning... if using tapatalk Scroll ALL the way to beginning Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Yes, you need power @stator lighting output; y & bk; before going any farther, ohm if not. Yes, Reg. Goes on the yellow wire and also "T"'s to switch, or in your case to lights directly (hot), & they'll be on all the time. Yes, Bulbs will blow if no reg. -Factory regulator ( make sure it's grounded good) -12v 30w bulbs Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

If no coolant loss flush it again ( hot) oils cheap. I assume you dont have access to a coolant pressure tester. Download tapatalk for pic's

Stand alone , You cant hook that to your stator ( unless it's been dc converted) the stator is a.c. Try it stand alone for trailtech only & see if the results are what you are looking for Also alot of people are using power tool batteries fyi

Oh they were cut way back at the stator? the yellow (yellow w/ red) depending on year, goes to reg. & T's up front to power up the switch. According to clymer DCV(but ive seen misprints) just try it on ac & dc ...with it running of course If nothings good, cut & ohm y or y/r & black , it should be between .26-.38 ohms...not running, cold Yes you need a regulator & seal up those butt connectors!

Can you twist 1 up & in & the other down & in

Idol screw count doesnt matter, use them to synch by gauge not turn count. set air mixture screws the same, to get desired mixture

The most common way is float stator ground & get reg./rec. With or with out a battery. if you go led w/ ac , it's hit or miss ( more miss) if they will work or work for very long... as you can see by what you have now Or install a battery & charge it with a wall charger & isolate lights to just battery Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

11.5@ 2500 rpm, up to 16.3 @8,000 ( if above 16.3 reg. is bad). you can unplug it & check@ plug black as neg. Then yellow & green are hi/low b+ Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Put a meter on the socket & if it's good put ac bulbs back in it. most leds wont last with ac ( Unless it's DC converted) then check with meter & put leds in if v's are good Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

But your working hard in a 8yr. Old thread so, maybe you oughta try working smart instead